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As an adjunct to the Tangents blog, the intention with this forum is to answer any questions, and allow a diverse discussion of topics related photography. With that, see it as an open invitation to just climb in and start threads and to respond to any threads.

Neil vN


Neil vN
Last Active


  • That's the only real way around this ... a screen hood such as these:  https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Hoodman/Ntt/hoodman+loupe/N/0
  • It all revolves around how you use tags on Instagram.  https://www.melyssagriffin.com/grow-your-instagram-followers/ For more, Google:  "Ways to Grow Your Instagram Organically"
  • I'd say that you should stay with the two umbrellas. They would give you larger light sources than the octabox. 
  • I've seen retouched.com recommended for this kind of thing. Inexpensive and fast turnaround. 
  • I am not seeing anything like blue marks or dots on her outfit? There's nothing unusual that would concern me about the digital capture or processing. Can you show us another example?
  • I think you did pretty well, considering the situation. We do what we can, within the limitations of what we are given, and the limitations of what is realistically possible. 
  • I mostly just gel my flash if I am trying to BALANCE it with the existing light - in this case, incandescent light. The incandescent light can be in the background, or partially illuminating my subject.  Then I gel my flash accordingly ... and if th…
  • Hi there Danielle  Re question 1: You need to remember that when you use flash, there are essentially two exposure - ambient and flash. So it is quite okay for your ambient to be under-exposed. Most often, this is what you want.  Check this article…
  • Let us know how it went. 
  • For static subjects such as speakers at a podium, use AF-S / Single focus mode.  For a model walking towards you, use AF-C / Servo mode.  Also remember, if you use Servo mode, you lose the AF-assist beam from your flash 
  • Oh yes, it works very well to bounce your flash off a white wall - it gives you a huge light source. But depending on how far back the wall is from you, you might lose too much light. Then umbrellas would work better.   Also be careful that the wal…
  • (I fixed your typo for you.)
  • 4K resolution in video is only (approx) 6 megapixels.  It isn't all that much, surprisingly.  So just send them your usual high-resolution files, and tell them this is better than 4K. You are that awesome!
  • James ... true, there is that work-around.  You can't control D, E and F from the trigger, but you can fire them ... and hence their output won't change even if the trigger is in TTL mode. 
  • I briefly tried Thumbtack, but it really seems geared towards a clientele that wants the cheapest.  As SkipperLange said, word of mouth is still the best.  Try your local Chamber of Commerce, or any similar local networking group. Also look at BNI (…
  • I only send my gear in when it breaks or needs calibration. 
  • The best place to ask would be this sub reddit:  https://www.reddit.com/r/whatisthatthing/
  • Same as Trev said. Your problem comes in that you allow too much (outside) ambient light in with your settings. Immediately go to max sync speed since doing so won't affect flash power, but you will drop the ambient by 1.3 stops. Then drop your ISO …
  • I don't have the f/2.8 optic, but I have the f/4E lens ... and it is very handholdable! It is only 6" long and it is light. And it takes a 77mm filter. 
  • Regarding your question about the Inverse Square Law ... it works in your favor when you bounce flash behind you. Check out this article for the full explanation: Bounce flash photography & The Inverse Square Law
  • There are two kinds of scenarios ... where I quickly need to switch between the cameras. Then I have a flash on each camera.  Other times of the shoot, I only rarely need the longer lens during the shoot.  Then I swap out the flash as is necessary -…
  • With two cameras on it, I tend to only have a flash on one of the bodies - the main one I am using ... which is usually the D5 with the 24-70mm. This way the heavy 70-200mm and cameras don't have a flash on it while it swings from my side. 
  • With bounce flash, the Guide Number loses much of its relevance. The GN is based on the quantity of light being known, and the distance being known. When you bounce the flash, the distance is unknowable by the flash, and you also lose light when it …
  • The manual flash would give you more consistency, if you bounced in a consistent way without the camera moving much.  TTL would still be faster to get the initial exposure correct. 
  • Hi there Chris  With the B1 you can only set all the flashes to TLL, or all of them to manual. You can't set the different flashes to be slaved as a combination of TTL and manual (a la Nikon, and the Canon 600EX)

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