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Neil vN

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Neil vN
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  • Doug ... the B1 will be too heavy to leave outdoors on a light-stand if you attach an umbrella or softbox to it.  For that kind of work, the B2 would be the better choice - it has the heavier part (which is the battery and electronics) separate, and…
  • Exactly as Braveheart says: With telephoto shots, the plane of focus doesn't shift much if you Focus & Recompose. But with wide-angle lenses (at a wider aperture), you will find that your off-center subject might be out of focus ... since the pl…
  • Lou, for fast-changing lighting I would rely on the TTL flash's capability to give me results which are more or less balanced the way I want to.  I would still use Manual Exposure mode on my camera, and then TTL on the flash. If you really have to, …
  • I have this issue with both my Nikon D4 bodies, even though I have sent them in for focus calibration twice during the past year. I know by now that I can't trust the outer AF areas.  My D5 is pretty good though.  So perhaps it is something we unfor…
  • Good point! You would actually be shooting at the faster shutter speeds! 
  • What would keep me from under-exposing and then depending on my camera being ISO-invariant .... at a low ISO you are using a slower shutter speed ... and that usually has a detrimental effect on image sharpness.  So I would still want to use the hig…
  • The hair-light looks just fine!  I think these two test shots look great, and that you have everything under control.  The 2nd photo has the better pose, as you've figured out. 
  • Or ... if  your camera allows, use the Wi-Fi function to at least place the small JPGs on the laptop so your clients can view the images and select their choice right then.  This also allows them to adjust anything they want in their clothing or hai…
  • Probably the Lowell GL-1Here is the Amazon link: Lowel GL-1 Power LED light I have a friend who is selling his kit (with an extra battery and the Daylight filter) for $550. 
  • Keep it as simple as possible.  Don't change lighting setups during the shoot. (In other words, don't try to accommodate different face or body types.) If in doubt, use clam-shell lighting since it is a flat light and will minimize skin imperfection…
  • You're going to have to talk to a CPA. 
  • Here's more: Wedding reception lighting with one flash Follow the links at the end of the article as well.  I grew up in Kempton Park ... a West-Rand town so shitty they closed the movie theater to open a Pep Stores in its place. But I regard Johan…
  • Not necessarily. 
  • Frank ..... exactly that!  Here is another article that explains the technique.  But it really is as simple as that.  Bouncing your flash And no, I never use Auto ISO - that would just bring in another variable again. 
  • You would only change the "effective focal length" if you were to move and change your position to have the similar composition. Full-frame vs Crop-sensor comparison : Depth-of-field & perspective In terms of resolution, there would be a diffe…
  • I'm not sure if that would work.  As far as I remember, the Pocketwizards aren't just "through" contacts ... they change the timing of the signals. 
  • You have to keep in mind that you don't need to accurately meter for the ambient light - the TTL flash will pick up the slack.  You might be better off under-exposing the ambient even more, so that there is no risk of subject smear because of the am…
  • Whether 1/125 is too slow or not, depends on the ambient light. Do you have examples with no flash? Also, if I look at the examples photos you sent ... I suspect they may have been under-exposed and you pulled up the exposure in post?
  • Just check in your software menu settings whether it doesn't allow you to shoot  (computer + card)? Nikon Camera Control allows you to set (computer) or (computer + card)
  • That sounds necessarily complicated ... and I do believe the problem starts with you shooting in Ratios. Go to the option which allows you to set absolute values. 
  • What software do you use to shoot tethered?  I use Nikon Camera Control 2.  In the software settings you can tell the software & camera whether the image should be recorded to the computer only, or to computer + camera.  That is the safest optio…
  • It's exactly as rs_eos has it ... you don't want to compound the problem. So it makes most sense to have your workflow as calibrated as  you can manage. 
  • Yup, that darker shadow is because it is a double-shadow. Two shadows falling onto each other, causing an extra dark spot.  Nothing more to do but have larger umbrellas / softboxes, and to move the lights closer to you instead of having them at each…
  • Others have answered your question thoroughly, but I would like to summarize and then add a few things: rs_eos has it right: "Assuming you're in f/16 light (sunny 16 rule), your light would need to put out f/22, f/32 or f/45 (1 to 3 stops over).  B…
  • Hi there Erik ... When you say you used "external flash", you mean an on-camera speedlight?  (or perhaps off-camera?) The 2nd photo looks really good. The light comes in from a flattering angle, and it gives form to your subjects.  With the 3rd phot…

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