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Trev

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Trev
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  • Nicely done Michael, since I don't bother too much with LR apart from just very basic adjustments and do rest in Photoshop I have never delved too deeply into that side of things so that should help Dave.
  • Dave, Therein lies the conundrum, if you drag an item of same name as an existing one, it would overwrite, presumably. But if you see my Backup Folders, you see the date I did it, but it puts a 24 hour time stamp on the end thereby giving a differ…
  • Dave, If you can navigate to 'My Pictures'/Lightroom you may have a 'backup' folder or see the Lightroom 4/5/6 (whatever version) Catalog Previews.lrdata folder. I would drag that onto the new computer, but make sure you think about if you are…
  • Jay, Pretty much what I do mate. 99% of the time my speedlight on camera is the Main Light, as correct exposure on the subject/s is the important part and I can control much easier the exposure on camera. In fact if in a hurry and the light is too…
  • Hi Hkula, Have a read of THIS I posted a long time back, all to do with Camera Profiles on my Nikons and Camera Process I use (2010 instead of 2012+). I use Vivid, but you need to understand what Adobe does in the background with their Default Ton…
    in Camera Calibration Comment by Trev May 6
  • ALM_327, There appears to be trouble with the shutter on the D750 about flare problems, dark/ugly banding and delay in writing to card. All over forums, etc. General Google search HERE STORY ON FLARE/BANDING Trev
    in D750 issue Comment by Trev May 3
  • good to hear Dave. we have to file a BAS (Business Activity Statement) every 3 months and then pay the tax in advance if you earn over $87,000 (only if you have a registered ABN - Australian Business Number) here in Australia. If below, you just f…
  • Dave, In addition to rs_eos's suggestions, for a really cheaper solution with no 'buzzing' why not simply get a strong flashlight (we call them torches in Australia) you would normally use, point it from the position of the camera flash and see how…
  • True rs_eos, very true. Unfortunately it's going the way of whomever manages to 'steal' a photo then improves it and sells it, the original photographer just does not stand a chance. CASE IN POINT Trev.
  • Actually, they can use the images for any purpose whatsoever, as you outlined and maybe they don't 'own' copyright, but I bet you won't win a lawsuit against them, they can do whatever the hell they like with the images, ergo, you basically don't ha…
  • Just remember Dave, once your images hit FB, they are **owned** by FB, no copyright etc., etc. The Devil's in the detail (fine print) as they say.
  • You will wonder why the hell you did not do it sooner mate, I can guarantee you that for sure, especially with the radio control you get with it, all from camera position and not having to walk up to flash head to change. Bit of more mucking around…
  • Dave, No, you can create a business one with no payments, instead of your name coming up, you have a business name, but, if you wanted certain things to supposedly 'work better' in terms of leads, views, etc. then you can make monthly payments whic…
  • Dave, you can buy the unit with TTL and also manual, (TTL version around $200 more) but I don't use TTL except on the camera's own flash on camera, The AD600BM's I have are not the TTL versions, and no, I don't miss that since any off camera flash I…
  • Hi sbcampbe, I shoot the AD600BM personally, and have shot @ f1.8 but in HSS and it works good. With the 600W I can be around 3m (10ft) away with the light shooting near full power and shutter up around 8000th, but I do 'pick' my location and pl…
  • Lou, Here is a PDF guide, 100 Techniques for Professional Wedding Photographers (published 2009) that I have, and although it's not quite the question specific you posed, I think you could benefit from it still with lots of information (120+ pages…
  • Yep, agree rs_eos, once one flash 'sees' another fire, that flash will take into account the light coming off and vice versa, then you end up with a dark image because both flashes are countering each other. Put both in manual, and not only will t…
  • Jay, If you look at even 100% and it does not 'look' good on screen, there really is nothing to worry about, view the image @ 50% (I never go 100% regardless of all the 'gurus' out there and Adobe giving us 'reminders' to look at 100%) as a full re…
  • That is a matter of personal choice. You could set it on different WB presets, or manual, but once in RAW it looks different when opened and using the Camera Profile choice is what will decide along with what you also choose to adjust in the WB on t…
  • Dennis, Here is SOMETHING I wrote for Tangents Forum a while back which may help, (for RAW files though, not jpegs, etc.) Cheers.
  • Sounds like a pretty good deal Dave.
  • Dave, To be quite honest, those LR posted Edits are quite rare to me and was only a sample to show you, because I do 99% of full edits in Photoshop though an action I use which controls Color, Contrast, Contrast Boost, Sharpening. If you say, push…
  • Quin, Good to see. Here is another top tip, you can control (to a degree) what you can lighten but retain the midtones/shadows on the image (hard to do because ALL adjustments in LR are global - over all the image). You can just move your cursor…
  • Dave, Just realised, I should have shown you precisely 'as shot' and if you were a jpeg shooter you would have got this straight from camera. In the general scheme of things it looks fine, but when compared to a full 'edit' of RAW + PS sharpening…
  • Dave, Here it is. This is file with no adjustments and NO default sharpening, in LR with WB 'As Shot'.   Flat and horrible, no crispness at all, and certainly needs adjusting. This shows the Mask I use to protect skin: This shows the Amo…

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