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Tangents

light modifiers …

February 25, 2009

Light modifiers for on-camera speedlights all generally do the same thing – they spread a lot of light around, and throw some light directly forward from the speedlight. In a way, this gives a bare-bulb effect to the light from the flashgun .. as opposed to light that is entirely bounced off other surfaces. 

As mentioned, the various light modifiers all do the same thing with greater or lesser efficiency.  One of the most frequent questions I get asked, is which light modifier I would recommend … even though I explain that I mostly use The Black Foamie Thing ™ when indoors.   (Here’s one recent example of the results I get with that light modifier.) 

I want to control the direction of my bounce flash.   The generic light modifiers work counter to that  .. they flood the room with light from the camera’s position.  But what I’m after is directional light from my flashgun, and for that I need to bounce my flash in specific ways and the generic flash modifiers won’t help.

What I mostly dislike about the generic light modifiers is that they are advertised as a kind of magic bullet to make flash photography easier and better.  This then allow most photographers to NOT put any thought into what they want to achieve with light, but instead reach for that advertised quick fix.  And therein lies the problem.  There is so much more to be done with light than just plonking a diffuser on top of your flash.

There are times though that I do need to disperse light directly from my speedlight, and for this I either use the Stofen (because it is cheap and small and fits in my pocket), or the Better Bounce Card (because it is inexpensive and light and works as efficiently as any of the other light modifiers).  Some light modifiers are so heavy, that they risk damaging the speedlight’s rotating flash-head through constant use.

So there it is .. the light modifier I use 95% of the time when I’m indoors – a piece of cheap black foam to flag the light from my speedlight.  There are also two other light modifiers I would recommend to disperse light when it isn’t entirely possible to bounce flash entirely off other surfaces.  I’ve tried numerous of the light modifiers on the market, but I feel that I simply don’t need them … and I think the results I achieve weekend after weekend, consistently prove me true on this.

Regarding any light modifier – we need to figure out first why we think you need a light modifier, and then why that specific light modifier.  And putting a little thought into what it is we want to achieve with on-camera speedlights, it might even become apparent that the advertising hype for these items won’t help us nearly as much as a clear understanding of  flash photography and light.

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model – Lauren Syn

February 12, 2009

I recently allowed myself a vanity purchase … the Nikon 200mm f2 AF-S VR lens.

Last year some time, after seeing another photographer’s results with the Canon 200mm f2 IS, I was curious enough to rent one, check it out, and then lust after one. I posted a write-up and some images at the time. What got to me was how insanely sharp the lens was at f2 .. and of course the incredible dream-like bokeh at f2 imparting an impressionistic appearance to the background.

With me reverting to Nikon recently, I picked up a used copy of Nikon 200mm f2 VR instead. But it’s been too cold outside to try this lens out .. until yesterday when there was a slight thaw in the temperatures. Since I really liked the results when I photographed Jackie with the Canon 200mm f2 IS, using only the lights in Times Square … I decided to meet up with a new model in Times Square last night to try out the Nikon 200mm f2 VR.

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Cigi & Alvarado ..

February 8, 2009

I’ve been an admirer of  the pin-up style photography of Robert Alvarado ever since I first saw his work on the photography forums.  So it was quite a thrill to hear he was presenting a few workshops across the USA where he’d be showing his technique in the studio, as well as his post-production style.   I caught up with him and several members of the Pro4um at the workshop in Chicago this weekend.   Our model was the very delightful (and gorgeous) Cigi. 

Here are some of the results from the workshop, where we were able to closely watch Robert’s technique and try it out ourselves.  I love the results!   Robert and Cigi, thank you for your patience and your kind enthusiasm.

But of course, (as I mentioned in the mini-interview), the challenge now would be to take this all in, and allow what I learnt to infuse my own style.

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Finish the sentence ..

February 7, 2009

David Cross, the well-known Photoshop guru (and otherwise interesting person),  just posted a ‘Finish the sentence‘ mini-interview with me on his blog.  Catch it there, and find out a few things about me, such as what I hate and love about Photoshop.  And my favourite accessory.  (Although that one shouldn’t be too hard to guess.)

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a question about exposure metering & TTL flash

February 2, 2009

Someone emailed me a question about exposure metering in relation to flash, and I want to reply to it here and perhaps help others as well.

Let’s say I use M mode and have adjust my aperture and shutter speed so that my meter indicator have returned to zero. At this point I know at least i have “correct exposure”. I would either choose to over expose and under expose depend on circumstances.

My question is, will my picture get over exposed if fire my strobe even thought my indicator already point to zero ? I have no idea how should I integrate flash setting into my routine I always use when in M mode.  I did not see u mentioning about the exposure indicator in your blog.

This is a tough one to give a definitive answer to.  Firstly, simply dialling your camera’s meter to zero doesn’t necessarily mean your exposure is correct. My pages on exposure metering explain some of this.  Sometimes your camera’s meter need to show over, or sometimes under, for you to have correct exposure.  The essential concept here is that you need to expose for your subject or a specific part of your scene.

One of the instances where just zeroing your camera’s meter would very likely not give you correct exposure, would be with a strongly back-lit scene.  What makes it even more difficult is that the camera’s meter could then show you different settings depending on your composition.  If you zoom in and out or shoot vertically or horizontally, your camera’s meter will tell you different things.

So let’s look at an example and see where it leads us …

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