Phil .. you will have to ride the FEC with TTL-BL as well. Just to a different extent than you would with regular TTL mode. With TTL-BL, the camera’s metering system takes the ambient light into account (via whatever algorithms the camera manufacturers wrote.)

My take on it is that I am better of using one of the modes the majority of the time, and get a feel for how my camera and flash would react. Rather that, than jumping between the modes, and hoping the camera and flash will sort it out, without much input from you, the photographer.

As it is, I mostly keep to TTL-BL on my Nikon D3 bodies.

I use the phrase ‘TTL’ on this website as a catch-all phrase for all TTL modes on all systems, whether TTL / TTL-BL / i-TTL / d-TTL / P-TTL / Q-TTL / E-TTL / E-TTL II.

It would just be insane (and impossible) to try and cover all those eventualities for me when describing flash photography techniques here.

Neil vN

If I read you correctly, what you’re saying is that straight TTL will work just as well or better than TTl-BL in this scenario, just a little less automatic as it’s necessary to ride the FEC levels in TTL mode (when I think about it, it’s probably better to have the awareness and control over the FEC anyway).

– Sounds like you’re not a big fan of TTL-BL..
I guess you could draw the analogy that TTL-BL as it pertains to flash exposure, is sort of like Program Mode on your camera (automatic, but no operator intervention) whereas TTL mode is sort of analogous to Aperture or Shutter Priority, if you get my drift.

Phil

PS. I have another scenario I’ve recently encountered which I want to ask you about. It’s not really related to this thread, so I’ll try to find a more appropriate place to ask that question to avoid taking this thread off-topic.

Phil, you’re on the right track with your thinking there.

The only hiccup is that you’re stuck on the TTL / TTL BL option. In practice, if you have a specific setup .. it would most likely mean a different flash exposure compensation between either mode.

So if you lose TTL BL, you’d just dial a different FEC if necessary. No big deal. : )

Back to the scenario you describe .. I would also try to get their backs to the sun. The rim-lighting usually works. And then you’d just need fill flash to help with the contrast. If you need more flash, with the flash output becoming more dominant, then off-camera flash always looks better.

Neil vN

Do you have any advice on how you would tackle large group shots outdoor in bright summer sun, with respect to camera settings and distance, flash settings/position, etc…if you were limited to my equipment: D300, 18-200 f3.5-5.6, SB800.

I’m not a professional and have only done 1 wedding in the past.

Firstly, I would be inclined to place the group in some shade (if available) with their backs to the sun to avoid squinting, but this is not always possible.

My initial thought is that TTL-BL would be the obvious way to go in this situation, but I’m also thinking I should try to get the flash off-camera in wireless remote mode to get a more directional light from the flash. — Because, I think competing with bright sun, the amount of fill from the flash in bright light may be a significant proportion of full power.

Unfortunately, as far as I know, in remote wireless mode the flash doesn’t do TTL-BL mode, so I was wondering if you would simply use it on the hot-shoe in TTL-BL giving more straight-on flat light, or would you still go for the off-camera wireless approach? (which would mean losing the ability to use TTL-BL)

I would be interested how you’d tackle this scenario and your reasoning, and if any other equipment would be a good idea in the wireless remote scenario. eg. umbrellas — It seems to me that a single SB-800 whether on-camera, or off is much too small a light-source for groups.

Regards
Phil

Comment by Joy Oxenrider — December 5, 2009 @ 10:38 am

Hey Joy well spotted, great observation!
If its helpful for others, people from some European countries wear wedding rings on their right hand instead of their left. I don’t know if this is the case for this couple but thought the information might help solve a mystery.

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“The right hand is the traditional hand for vows or oaths. It is raised when such an oath is given, so the wedding ring would here show the sincerety of the oath. A traditional reason to wear the wedding ring on the right hand stems from Roman custom and biblical references. The Latin word for left is “sinister”, which in addition to this sense also has the same senses as the English word. The Latin word for right is “dexter”, a word that evolved into “dexterity”. Hence, the left hand had a negative connotation and the right a good one. For the same reason, an oath is sworn while raising the right hand.”1

1 Wikipedia. (2009), Wedding ring http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wedding_ring

Regs,
R.

I could have used a ‘foamy thingy’ tho, bought the 99 cent sheet at Hobby Lobby this afternoon.

Thanks

Andy .. very true. However, this series of posts is about lighting the family formals and portraits at a wedding, and these are largely static set-ups.

So while I would shoot TTL flash for most of the wedding day specifically because I need the flexibility that TTL flash offers .. the moment that I shoot more formal portraits and use off-camera lighting, then manual flash makes most sense.

btw .. aperture controls both manual flash and ambient light equally!
Start catching up here ..

Neil vN