Neil vN - tangents » Nikon D-SLR

using the new Nikon D3100 for its video capability

Neil vN — Thu, 16 Dec 2010 02:06:28 +0000

Melissa & Dennis – their wedding day from Neil van Niekerk on Vimeo.

review of the Nikon D3100 video capability

Nikon recently released two very interesting D-SLRs – the Nikon D3100 (B&H) and the Nikon D7000 (B&H). Improving on several of the entry-level Nikon D-SLRs, they also offer HD video capability (1080p at 24 fps), and even does so with full-time auto-focus capability.

So when B&H sent me a Nikon D3100 for review, I thought what better test than to start in the deep end, and use it during a wedding to shoot HD video. The intention was to use the HD video from the D3100 along with the still photographs from my usual set of Nikon D3 bodies … and compile this as a stills & video Fusion clip, shown at the top here. I shot the stills, and Jessica, my assistant with an attitude, shot & edited the D3100 video clips. A first attempt at stills/video Fusion for us.

So how did the Nikon D3100 fare? Quite impressively actually …

The camera is very small, as you’d expect from a camera that came from a D40x, D60 and D3000 lineage. For my large hands, the camera is a bit too compact, especially since I’m used to the heft of a D3. But it is truly light-weight and compact.

The video quality is superb. Really impressive. Skin tones looked great, and digital noise wasn’t a problem at all. The sound we recorded with the on-board microphone was also clear. (However, we didn’t use any of the sound in the Vimeo clip shown here, aside from the brief section where the group of guests cheered.

Shooting video hand-held just doesn’t look good, so we used the light-weight Manfrotto 560B-1 video monopod (B&H), to steady the camera. We didn’t use the Nikon 18-55mm VR zoom lens that comes as a kit with the D3100. Instead, I chose to use the Nikon 85mm f1.4G AF-S (B&H) for the low-light wedding reception, and the superb Nikon 24-70mm f2.8G ED AF-S (B&H) for everything else we shot with the D3100.

The auto-focus ability during video recording might be useful if you used the camera for motion work with a Glide-Cam, but generally you are better off using manual focus. If you are shooting something and the video pops in and out of focus, the clip is not really usable. So the live AF during video recording is a great feature, but ultimately not essential for much of video recording.

The LiveView lever and Movie Record button are very well-placed and instantly accessible, without the chance of accidentally engaging it.

An improvement over previous recent entry-level Nikon D-SLRs is that the different drive modes are now accessible from a switch on the top deck instead of being buried inside the menu.

Final verdict:
The D3100 is a likable and very capable little camera offering superb video quality. Hopefully the Vimeo clip shown here will reveal some of that, even though the Vimeo clip was posted as 720p HD video.

As a final note – I hope to test the D7000 soon. As the bigger brother of the D3100, I’m expecting a spectacular camera.

[ note: the clip was edited with iMovie '11 ]

More articles about wedding photography …

Equipment used during this photo session:

Nikon D3100 (B&H)
Manfrotto 560B-1 video monopod (B&H)
Nikon 85mm f1.4G AF-S (B&H)
Nikon 24-70mm f2.8G ED AF-S (B&H)

Nikon D3; Nikon 14-24mm f2.8G ED AF-S (B&H);
Nikon 24-70mm f2.8G ED AF-S (B&H)
Nikon 70-200mm f2.8 AF-S VR II (B&H)

Nikon SB-900 (B&H); Nikon SD-9 battery pack (B&H);

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Nikon focusing modes – Nikon D300 / D700 / D3

Neil vN — Sun, 07 Nov 2010 02:31:38 +0000

Auto-focus (AF) settings for the Nikon D300 / D700 / D3 / D3s / D3x

The current line-up of top Nikon D-SLRs offer a range of AF settings. The combination’s in settings seem daunting at first. But with other settings on my D3 bodies, I keep it fairly simple. Instead of flip-flopping between numerous settings, I keep it simple by generally using the AF settings in just two ways. This depends on what whether my subject is static or moving …

First of, we’re keeping manual focus out of this discussion. If you need to focus in manual for some reason, eg, doing macro work, the choice to do so will be for obvious reasons – you’re in a situation where you don’t need AF, or the AF doesn’t respond properly.

Then your choice of AF mode starts at the moment you decide whether you need to shoot in either Continuous-servo (AF-C) or Single-servo mode (AF-S). This however, depends on how you use your AF-ON button / Back-Button Focus.

Back-Button Focus / AF-ON button

We need to realize that focus initiation isn’t really connected to the moment that you need to trip your shutter. For example, with sport, you might track an athlete’s movements, but only fire the shutter some (short) time later at the peak of action.

Generally, with a static subject, and using default settings, a photographer might only use the center AF button, since it is the most sensitive AF sensor. Then the general way of using AF would be to focus by gently touching the shutter button. This initiates the auto-focus. You’d keep your finger lightly on the shutter button until focus has been achieved. Keeping the shutter button lightly depressed, you’d then lock the AF setting and recompose your framing of the intended image … and then only trip the shutter.

Okay, that would be the general default way of using AF on a camera.

This however, would make a sport photographer or action photographer’s life difficult, since they are photographing moving subjects. You can’t lock focus and then take the shot … for your subject has surely moved by then. So the moment you photograph action or moving subjects, it makes sense to be in the Continuous-servo (AF-C) mode.

There is a hiccup now for the action / sport / news photographer who uses the shutter button to do both functions – initiate focus AND trip the shutter. Let me explain: let’s say you’re using AF-C mode, tracking movement … but then need to photograph a static subject, and need to recompose the photograph and not just have a central composition. Now the photographer would need to change switch settings, moving from AF-C to AF-S, and then change the way to lock and hold focus. It becomes a clumsy way of working.

Instead, the vast majority of action photographers would use Back-Button Focus, ie, the AF-ON button to initiate focus … and then use the shutter button purely just to trip the shutter. This now becomes a separate action – thumb on the AF-ON button to initiate focus, and the fore-finger on the shutter button to finally trip the shutter.

There’s now an added benefit. If the action photographer wants to hold / lock focus, they simply let go of the AF-ON button. The camera will now not focus the lens, and the photographer can trip the shutter to take the photograph. So with this simple change in settings, the action photographer is instantly ready for movement (AF-ON button depressed), and the moment the photographer wants to lock focus, they just let go. Beautifully simple.

However, I don’t use Back-Button Focus. I just couldn’t quite adapt to it. I use the AF-ON button to lock & hold focus when I am shooting in AF-C mode. Beautifully simple … except that I have to flip back to AF-S mode when photographing static subjects.

There is one small gotcha with using Back-Button Focus – the Vibration Reduction (VR) function doesn’t kick in with the AF-ON button, but only when the shutter button is pressed. So you might encounter situations where the VR hasn’t had time to settle before the shutter is fired. It’s just something to be aware of.

Continuous-Servo (C) vs Single-Servo (S) focus modes

How you use AF-C mode versus AF-S mode will then obviously depend on whether you use Back-Button Focus (BBF).

If you use AF-C mode with Back-Button Focus, then there is less motive to use AF-S mode.

If you don’t use BBF, and still prefer using AF-C primarily, then you could use the AF-ON button to lock focus. That would work as well. But ultimately, you would then still be better off using BBF if you shoot mostly (or only) in AF C mode.

If you use AF-S mostly, then you could use BBF. It would make sense to do so. But not much more than just using the shutter button to initiate AF and fire the shutter. I believe that BBF really comes into its own if Continuous-Servo mode (AF-C) is your primary focus mode.

This of course brings us to …

Release priority vs Focus Priority

With Nikon D-SLRs, the defaults are:

Release Priority (custom function a1 on the Nikon D3) for AF-C. This makes sense in that you really want the camera to be able to track focus and you can fire shots off, relying on the camera’s AF technology to give you the edge here and enough in-focus images for a moving subject. If you were to set Focus Priority, the camera would only fire once it has confirmed your subject is in focus. That delay would mean your fast-moving subject is already out of focus again … even for a Nikon D3.

Focus Priority (custom function a2 on the Nikon D3) for AF-S. This makes sense, in that with single-servo mode, you’re most likely focusing on static subjects. Best then to make sure your image is crisply in focus before the camera allows the shutter to be tripped.

You could swap these settings, or change them from the defaults, but this doesn’t make much sense to me.

There is of course (Release + Focus) Priority as an option for custom function a1, in which the camera slows down the frame rate in AF-C mode to give the camera better chance to follow focus. This also seems a good option for those photographers who shoot a lot of action. Your choice between Release Priority, and Release + Focus Priority will then obviously depend on your needs.

All this of course brings us to …

AF Area Modes

- Single-Point AF

With this, the photographer manually selects the focus point. The central AF sensors are more sensitive. I must admit that I don’t trust the outer AF sensors to give me accurate focus on the Nikon D3, and I rely heavily on the center AF sensor when focus is critical.

- Dynamic Area AF

Now we’re getting to the area where Nikon D3 focusing capability starts to become magical.

Via custom function a3 on the Nikon D3, you can select whether the camera uses 9, 21 or 51 AF points … or 51 points with 3D Tracking. This is where the Nikon D3 (and the other Nikon D-SLRs with 3D Tracking really shines. If you set your camera to AF-C, and have 3D Tracking enabled, your camera will jump to other AF sensors as your subject moves across the frame. It really is quite incredible to see … and then realize the camera mostly nails it.

- Auto Area AF

The camera is purported to distinguish human subjects from the background. I have no reason to disbelieve the camera manual on this, but I am perhaps too much of a control freak … I like to see and control which AF point the camera is using. In AF-C mode and Auto Area AF, the camera doesn’t show which AF points are used. (It does so for AF-S mode though.)

And this all finally brings us right back to …

my choice of AF settings on Nikon cameras, specifically the Nikon D3

In summary: Even though the D3 is a camera that can be customized in an astonishing number of ways, I tend to keep my operations and functions quite simple. Predictable. I don’t jump between numerous settings and options. I tend to keep to one or two basic ways of working, and make sure I get a feel for how the camera works and responds with that. For example, I don’t jump between exposure modes. I pretty much stay in Manual Exposure mode. Similarly, I don’t use Auto ISO. It brings in another variation in my controls.

In the same way, I mostly use these two auto-focus setups with the Nikon’s:

Static subjects:
I’m mostly a focus-and-recompose shooter. I like AF-S (Single-Servo focusing mode) and the central AF sensor. I do move the AF sensor to the other sensors in proximity to the central sensor .. but I mostly work in AF-S mode, and the central AF sensor. And I use the shutter button to initiate AF and trip the shutter. Basic settings really. I lock focus with the AF-ON button, so that I don’t have to constantly refocus on a static subject.

Action & movement:
When I do photograph action of any kind, I change my camera to AF-C and the Dynamic Area AF selection, with 3D Tracking enabled via custom function a3. Still using the shutter button to do everything. If I need to lock focus, I use the AF-ON button to hold focus.

camera settings & custom function settings for the Nikon D700

camera settings & custom function settings for the Nikon D3

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favorite image from the weekend ..

Neil vN — Wed, 16 Dec 2009 03:50:17 +0000

This enigmatic image is my favorite from an event I helped photograph this weekend. A performance artist at a Bar Mitzvah party had this incredible act with a massive balloon which he’d manipulate, and dance with, and dance into, and dance out of. You really need to see a video clip of it. One of the many images I took during this sequence was this one where he moved right into the guests who were watching him.

The lighting on him was from the videographer who was kneeling next to me. Since his act was so unique, and so fast-paced .. and the lighting changing, I wanted to make sure I covered all bases. I therefore shot alternate frames as fast as I could .. with flash, and without flash. This way I can always pick out afterward what works best. I really like having both options to choose from in situations like this. I want some photographs with flash to make sure I have well-lit images … but also some without flash, just in case the flash completely destroyed the mood and look of the photographs.

The way that I easily disable the flash with a button push, is by setting custom function F6 on the Nikon D3 body to disable flash output. It is the same for the D700, and if memory serves me, it is similar for the D300. With F6 set to disable flash with the push of the button with my thumb, it is very simple to take images with and without flash.

This is how I do the comparative images on this website, where I show what the ambient light looked like, and how an image looks with flash added. Unfortunately there is no easy way to do this on Canon D-SLRs.

In post-processing the image, I had to bump up the Exposure in raw processing by 1 stop. To saturate the colors like that, I went in to Lab mode and made a few adjustments. (More about that in follow-up posts on how to make your images pop in Photoshop.)

Here is what it looked like with bounce flash ..

This works too. In shooting alternate images with and without flash, I was making sure that I had something that worked.

Another image with just the available light, which is the DJ’s lighting from behind.

Back to the post-processing, here is the image with my default settings in ACR (but with exposure bumped up by a stop.)

… and how the image looks (as posted at the top), by manipulating it a little bit in Lab mode.
This is something I’ll cover more specifically in follow-up posts.
The results? An image that looks mysterious … and ‘pops’ even more than the original.

All images with the Nikon D3, and the Nikon 24-70mm f2.8 AF-S
Camera settings for the main image at the top: 1/100 @ f3.2 @ 2000 ISO
Camera settings for the other two images: 1/80 @ f2.8 @ 2000 ISO

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review: Nikon D5000

Neil vN — Thu, 13 Aug 2009 02:23:11 +0000

In testing cameras these days, they are rated not just for specification, but for their primary qualities in helping you take great photographs. And for that, judging the camera according to handling, image quality and auto-focus speed and accuracy, becomes even more important than just the list of specs.

Nikon D5000 hands-on review

So with that in mind, when I recently got my hands on a brand-new Nikon D5000, (B&H), I thought I’d hit the streets and see how it performs. I took it for a late-night stroll around Times Square in New York, armed only with a Nikon 50mm f1.4G AF-S, (B&H), lens to see how the camera handled the low light levels there.

Nikon D5000 image quality

And of course, late night in Times Square is when you see and even meet the interesting people, the gorgeous people and the usual mix’n'match that Manhattan throws at you. So let’s see how the 12.3 megapixel Nikon D5000 performed in low light, at high ISO settings; all hand-held, using just the light from the billboards ..

Here is Blueberry Studmuffin, posing for the camera.
1/250th F1.8 @ 1000 ISO; no flash

As you can see, the camera responds fast enough for a candid portrait in low light.
Impressive so far …

Jennifer, a visitor to Times Square, who kindly let me take her photograph.
1/125th @ f2 @ 1000 ISO; no flash

And now I know you’re wondering how the high-ISO noise looks.
So here’s a 100% crop of part of that image ..

I purposely chose a darker part of the image (as processed in ACR / Bridge CS4) I know that the high-ISO noise appears differently for different tonal values … but this should give you a rough idea how the camera performs at 1000 ISO.

Let’s take it a step up to 1250 ISO ..

1/125th @ f1.6 @ 1250 ISO .. and I never quite did catch his name …

Here’s a 100% crop of some area just above his cap.

Noise is starting to come in, but still nothing I’d be concerned about on a professional shoot. Which means I am quite impressed with this.

So let’s take it another step up to 1600 ISO for a candid shot out on the street where Elmo made a shy appearance by now!

Looking at a small portion of that image as a 100% crop ..

Here we are starting to see that mottled effect of high-ISO noise really creeping in. And yet, I’d say this is about a stop away from the high-ISO killer, the Nikon D3. In other words, very impressive for a camera that retails at US $730.00.

Nikon D5000 AF speed and accuracy

Keeping in mind that my day-to-day camera is the Nikon D3, then it will be obvious that no camera that I work with or play with, will quite match up to that beast. With the Nikon D5000, I had more misses and focusing inaccuracies than I would’ve had with the D3 .. but that is an unfair comparison.

For where the camera is pegged at, the AF speed is solid. I was able to get many grabshots that were keepers. Fleeting moments where I just turned the camera towards people and snapped the scene …

1/125th @ f2 @ 1600 IOS

In perspective, I’d say the AF performance is solid, especially considering the light levels I was working in, and shooting with a fast lens where the depth-of-field is very shallow.

btw … One of the billboards threw a heavy red color cast on them, which I partially corrected for in RAW, hence the background going towards a cyan tint.

Nikon D5000 handling

The camera is small and lightweight. Very easy to carry around. It is too small for my large hands though, and if I were to use the camera regularly, I would be looking at one of the off-brand grips to give something larger for my mitts.

One feature that makes the camera very interesting, is the fold-out LCD panel.

It folds close to protect the LCD, and folds and swivels open to reveal the settings and image preview. You can use the LiveView function to surreptitiously take candids without taking the camera to your eye. However, the auto-focusing is much slower with LiveView enabled.

And I like that the display on the back also rotates when the camera is rotated.

The Nikon D5000 has all the exposure modes you could ever want, from fully manual, to Scene modes. This is a camera that would allow you to grow.

Shooting in manual exposure mode is more clumsy than in a higher-level camera, in that you have to push more buttons to change settings. The rear dial controls the shutter speed. But by pressing the +/- button and simultaneously controlling the rear dial, you change the aperture. Changing the ISO is slow though, since you have to go through the menu. Most people won’t find this an issue, but if you want easier access to change the ISO on the move, then you can change custom function 1, so that the Function button (Fn) controls the ISO.

Nikon D5000 specifications (a quick overview)

The Nikon D5000 features also includes the following specs:
- movie mode, in the AVI format at 720p and mono audio,
- a self-cleaning sensor,
- Live View with contrast-detect AF, face detection and subject tracking,
- 11 AF points with 3D tracking,
- 4 frames per second continuous,
- in-camera retouching.

Nikon D5000 – final comments

It should be obvious that I found the Nikon D5000 to be a likable little camera with surprisingly good image quality. And that should be the most important aspect in deciding on a camera.

For another thorough review of the Nikon D5000, which includes a comparison with the Nikon D3, check Frank Nuernberger’s site. You might just be surprised.

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If you are interested, this camera is available from all camera retailers, including B&H and Amazon:

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the Best Camera in the World ..

Neil vN — Sat, 25 Apr 2009 09:30:19 +0000

the Best Camera in the World ..

.. will be the one where the camera manufacturers allow me some input into the matter. If only Nikon and Canon (and Pentax and Fuji and everyone else) would just gather around a table and listen to me. If only …

When I get to handle a new camera, I often wonder why the manufacturers designed a camera the specific way they did. It might be the strange placement of a button or control; or the omission of a feature, or even the deliberate hampering of features in the non-pro bodies. Sometimes I just wish they would bring in a feature that I love on another camera.

Here are the gear-head musings on what I would insist the Best Camera in the World would be like, if I had any say in it. (Sorry, but that means this posting will have a lot of words and no images this time around.)

Firstly, the Best Camera in the World would have to be a modern full-frame digital SLR camera (D-SLR) for the combination of accessibility, versatility and image quality.

I recently moved from using Canon 1D mkIII bodies to using Nikon D3 bodies. Personally, I think the Nikon D3 is the best camera that has ever been made to date. But there are a number of pros and cons, and not everything falls in favor of the Nikon D3. Therefore most of this post is a comparison between these two cameras, and which things from either camera I would want to see in the Best Camera in the World.

But before we even get there, I have to touch on something - Exposure Modes. Both these cameras fall down sorely when it comes to how the exposure modes are accessed. Pentax’s ingenuity here towers over them in this regard.

Exposure modes: Hyper-Program and Hyper-Manual

When Pentax brought out the Pentax Z-1 / PZ-1 in the early 90′s, they had re-thought the way a camera’s exposure modes should to be implemented, in a most inspired way. They had the usual range of exposures modes we all know, such as Shutter Priority (Tv) and Aperture Priority (Av). But Program mode became Hyper-Program; and Manual mode became Hyper-Manual. Sure this sounded gimmicky, until you handled the camera and realized what they achieved.

Hyper-Program worked like Program mode, except that if you dialed the shutter button, it would immediately change to Shutter Priority (Tv), as you change to specific shutter speeds. Similarly, if you dialed the Aperture dial, then the camera instantly changed to Aperture Priority mode (Av), as you set the aperture. No need to switch mode dials on the top of the camera. You just turned either the aperture dial or shutter speed dial to change between the modes at will. And if you wanted to return to the usual Program mode, you just hit the * (star) button. Intuitive and simple. (And no, this is completely different than Program Shift.)

Hyper-Manual worked a similar elegant magic in how you controlled the camera’s manual exposure mode. Let’s say you rely on your built-in meter in this scenario. If you use any other camera in manual exposure mode, you have to dial the shutter button and aperture button to get to the correct combination for proper exposure. With Hyper-Manual, you just hit the * button, and the camera entered a combination of settings for you, depending on where you pointed your camera. This combination of settings could be according to a Program-mode line, or according to the shutter speed your camera happened to be at; or the aperture your camera happened to be at. (This was set deeper in the menu according to your preference.)

Let’s say you knew you’d be working at f2.8 .. then you’d just hit the * button and the appropriate shutter speed was entered for you. Perfect for working with the camera’s spot-meter. If you’ve ever tried to spot-meter with a long lens on your camera while hand-holding it, AND looking at your metering display .. then you know how tough it is. But with Hyper-Manual mode, you just hit the * button while looking precisely where your spot-meter is aiming. Much faster. You just hit one button with your thumb, and you’re set.

Now, should you decide you have the correct exposure, but want to change your shutter speed or aperture, then you hit the Exposure Lock button, and change either the aperture or shutter speed .. and the other setting will follow in relation to the metering value that was entered.

With any other camera, let’s say you have 1/500th @ f2.8 but you want 1/200th @ f4.5 .. then you’d have to turn both dials by the same amount of clicks. But with Hyper-Manual mode, you lock the exposure combination, and just change the one dial. Either one. Doesn’t matter.

The way these two modes work is such an incredible stroke of genius, that any camera that doesn’t have those two modes, is severely hampered already. The Best Camera in the World needs to have Pentax’s Hyper-Program and Hyper-Manual modes.

Now for the rest of the handling, features, buttons and dials …

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The Best Camera in the World also needs …

As mentioned earlier, I’ve used the Canon 1D mk3 bodies extensively, and have now moved to using Nikon D3 bodies. As wonderful as the Nikon D3 is (and I certainly have strong reasons for the move), the D3 could be improved upon further:

Things that the 1D mk3 has, but are (sadly) lacking on the D3:

flash exposure compensation on the body.
flash exposure compensation read-out in the viewfinder. Another big plus for the Canon.
being able to select which card I am writing to, and looking at. You can’t do that with the D3. This is far better thought-out and implemented on the 1D mk3.
the way you can speedily flick through images with the rear dial. I loved that.
I preferred the more sensible layout of the AF sensors in the viewfinder of the 1D mk3. (Nikon fans are going to kill me for even saying this.)
the mk3 has a mode where the shutter noise is quieter. Not quite silent, but definitely quieter.
the 1D mk3 sensor is self-cleaning .. and it works! The D3 has nothing. :-/

Things that are better on the D3 …

AF speed and accuracy, especially in low light. Seriously, the Nikon D3 is better here.
high-ISO noise is better with the D3 than the 1D mk3. It’s not a huge jump, but higher ISOs look cleaner on the D3.
I can select flash OFF with a simple touch of a button on the front of the D3.
I can program the DoF button for other functions, such as changing to spot-metering momentarily.
custom function d7 allows the LCDs to light up any time I touch any button. This is a big deal for me. I hated how the LCD light button was implemented on the 1D mk3 and Canon 5D.
the feel of the Nikon D3. It just wants to be gripped in your hands.

Things I hate about the D3 ..

the positioning of the lever on the front of the camera where you select between Single / Continuous / Manual focusing. It can easily be knocked out of position. The way Canon implements this is much better.
the image type button (raw/jpg) is riiiiight next to the ISO button and WB button. It’s just begging for you to switch to small JPG instead of RAW during some important point during a shoot. This is a huge oversight in the controls of the D3. There should be massive separation between controls which are often adjusted such as ISO and WB … and settings that are crucial, but not adjusted that often, such as selecting the image type and quality (raw/jpg).

Things I loooove about the D3 ..

I can use Nikon zooms. The Nikon 24-70mm f2.8 (B&H), is the best mid-range zoom I have used, and the Nikon 14-24mm f2.8 (B&H), is a thing of unparalleled beauty.

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That about covers it as a comparison between these two cameras here. Some pros and cons to both these top-of-the-line bodies. From these lists of things I love and hate about either of those two cameras, you can immediately see what I would like to be included for the Best Camera in the World. I want a hybrid between these two cameras … with Pentax’s Hyper-Program and Hyper-Manual modes.

Ideally, all the camera manufacturer would come together and ask my input on designing their next camera. So if any of the designing engineers at Canon and Nikon are reading this .. give me a call. I’m waiting.

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camera settings: Nikon D3

Neil vN — Wed, 31 Dec 2008 11:02:15 +0000

The Nikon D3 brought incredible image quality to the usual reliability of their cameras and unbeatable optical quality of their lenses. The multitude of settings make the D3 a high-precision camera that can be configured in a personal way, depending on shooting style.

When my D3 first arrived, it was with huge excitement that I unpacked it, fired off a few frames just for the thrill of hearing the shutter whir by in continuous high-speed drive … and then proceeded to change the settings to my preferences with Nikon cameras. So here is an overview of my preferences for the D3, and the settings that I changed immediately upon getting the camera out of the box:

(And here’s the link if you’d like to order the Nikon D3 from B&H.)
Oh, go on, you know you want one!

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Playback Menu:

Display mode – Highlights enabled.
It is absolutely essential to have the highlights enabled as part of an exposure metering method.

Image Review – On

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Shooting Menu:

File naming
I need all my cameras to have a unique file name. It makes post-production workflow simpler if the images already have a unique name directly out of the camera.

Image Quality - RAW
Really, JPG isn’t an option for me.

NEF (RAW) recording
- Lossless compressed RAW
- 12-bit depth

I chose 12-bit depth over 14 bits (for now), even though some tests (such as this thoughtful consideration by Bob Johnson) show that using 14 bits give slightly better shadow detail.

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My Menu:

Format Memory Card

It is useful to have this setting immediately available when formatting numerous cards. (Although I have to say that due to my paranoia, I never format a card while on a shoot. Always before the time as part of the preparation for a shoot.)

change main / sub

After so many years of shooting with Canon D-SLRs, I have a hard time adapting to having the shutter dial on the rear, and the aperture on the front. So for more instinctive shooting habits right now, I have the shutter dial and aperture dials swapped around from the Nikon default.

Lock mirror up for cleaning
Battery info
World time

These are just general house-keeping settings that I like having grouped together.

CF a8 – AF point selection

I constantly flip between the 51 point and 11 point selection, although I most often keep the camera to 11 points selection.

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Custom Settings Menu:

a1 .. AF-C priority selection

AF-C is the Continuous Focusing mode, where the shutter can be tripped whether the subject is in focus or not, ie, Release Priority. With this setting, you can turn AF-C into Focus Priority.

default : Release button (ie, FPS is maintained),
my preference : Release + focus

With this custom setting the photographer now has a very powerful option – to change the usual behavior of AF-C mode in only tripping the shutter when the subject is in focus. Although I’m not sure that is how most photographers would want to use Continuous Focusing, I find it reassuring that the camera will only trip once the subject is in focus.

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a3 .. Dynamic AF area

With this setting the number of AF points can be selected.

default : 9 points,
my preference : 51 points (3D-tracking).

The 51 point, 3-D tracking mode works amazingly well in tracking moving objects when shooting in AF-C (servo mode), and setting the Auto Focus mode to Dynamic Area (the center selection).

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a8 .. AF point selection

This option allows you to choose either 51 or 11 AF points for manual focus-point selection.

default : 51 points,
my preference : both.

I flip between the two selections, so have this custom function accessible in the My Menu option.

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a9 .. AF-ON button

Customize the function of the AF-ON button.

default : AF-ON,
my preference : AF lock only.

I prefer using the shutter button to auto-focus and then lock-and-hold focus, instead of using the AF-On button. I don’t use AE lock feature since I shoot nearly exclusively in manual exposure mode, but at times I do want to lock my focus separately from the shutter button, and therefore I have this custom function set this way.

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b1 .. ISO sensitivity step value – 1/3rd stop increments
b2 .. EV steps for exposure control – 1/3rd stop increments
b3 .. Exposure comp / fine tune – 1/3rd stop increments

Keeping your exposure controls in 1/3rd stop increments allow for finer tuning of exposure.

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c4 .. Monitor Off delay

With this setting you control how long the LCD display stays up.

default : 20 secs,
my preference : 1 min.

I like seeing what I just photographed, and also, the histogram and blinking highlights are indispensable tools. Therefore I *need* to chimp. Having a much longer LCD display time helps.

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d5 .. Control Panel / Viewfinder

With this you dictate whether you see your ISO setting or Exposures Remaining in the rear control LCD, and whether you see Frame Count or Exposures Remaining in the viewfinder.

Viewfinder Display:
default : Frame Count,
my preference : Exposures Remaining.

I’m not interested in my frame count while shooting, but the Exposures Remaining is directly useful information I need to see in the viewfinder.

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d7 .. LCD illumination

This option controls whether the LCD lights up only when the power switch is rotated to the lamp position, or when any button is pressed.

default : Off,
my preference : On.

I most often work in dim areas, and I want to be able to read my LCD without having to precisely select the Lamp button. With this function selected, the LCD will light up whenever I hit any of the camera controls. It just makes it easier for me when the LCD lights up as soon as I handle the camera – then it doesn’t become an extra control that I have to push.

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e3 .. Flash sync speed

This option controls whether Auto FP (High-Speed Flash Sync) is automatically enabled for shutter speeds over max sync speed.

default : 1/250th
my preference : 1/250th Auto FP.

I do know that the flash’s range is halved by going into Auto FP mode, and therefore stay at 1/250th or below if I need the most output from my speedlight. But I also like the option of not hitting that ceiling of 1/250th if for some reason I need to go to a higher shutter speed while using an on-camera speedlight.

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f1 .. Multi selector center button

With this custom function, the operation of the center button of the multi-selector is defined for the Shooting Mode and Playback Mode.

Shooting Mode :
default : Select center AF point,
my preference : default

I like the default here over the other choice (Illuminate AF area), since this allows me to instantly re-select the center autofocus sensor if I have been using another focusing sensor instead.

Playback Mode :
default : Thumbnail on/off,
my preference : Zoom on/off.

I really like to be able to see a higher magnification of the image. And with the way the joystick works of the multi-selector, it is easy enough to move to any part of the image. Sweet!

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f4 .. Assign FUNC. button

This option allows a variety of functions to be assigned to the FUNC button. It is in settings like this, that helps make the D3 shine as a powerful tool for the photographer.

FUNC button press
- default : none
- my preference : Flash Off (the Speedlight is disabled

This setting is entirely personal preference, since there are a variety of options here that could be put to great use by different photographers. I like the idea of instantaneously being able to disable the flash by pressing the FUNC button, instead of having to pull my eye away from the viewfinder to switch the Speedlight off.

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f5 .. Assign preview button

With this control, you set what the action that preview button will perform. It has a similar set of possibilities as the FUNC button.

Preview button press
- my preference : Spot-metering

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f6 .. Assign AE-L / AF-L button

Similarly here, with this button you set whether the AE-L / AF-L button performs the default function of locking exposure and focus, or any of the other options, similar to that of the FUNC button.

My preference would be to keep this button purely as a Focus Lock (AF-L) button, since I only shoot in manual exposure mode. Also, since focusing and exposure have nothing to do with each other, these two functions shouldn’t really be assigned to the same button.

I now use this button to disable my flash. Originally I used the Func button, but it gave me an awkward hold on the camera when I used my ring finger to keep the button in. Much easier for me now is to use the AE-L / AF-L button to disable the flash.

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f9 .. No memory card ?

This option disables the shutter release if there is no CF card.

default : Enable release,
my recommendation : Release locked.

Changing away from default makes a lot of sense. You really don’t want to get in to a situation where you think you are capturing images, but in fact aren’t. Of course, if you shoot tethered, this might be an option for you.

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f10 .. Reverse indicators

With this custom setting, the direction of the exposure meter display in the camera can be changed.

default: + —0— -
my preference: - —0— +

This has long bugged me that the Nikon metering displays are non-intuitive about their direction. I know the intention is that the metering display shows the way the controls should be turned, but it still makes more sense to have the + on the right-hand side for display. That’s the way we are trained to see an increase, or a plus.

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camera settings: Nikon D700

Neil vN — Wed, 31 Dec 2008 10:12:29 +0000

The Nikon D700 has the same remarkable image quality that the Nikon D3 has, but in a smaller more affordable camera. This makes sit an excellent alternative to the top-rated Nikon D3. And of course the multitude of camera settings and custom settings make the D700 a camera which can be configured in a highly personal way, depending on your shooting style and needs.

Here is an overview of my preferences for the D700, and the settings that I changed immediately upon getting the camera out of the box:

(And here’s the link if you’d like to order the D700 from B&H.)

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Playback Menu:

Display mode – Highlights enabled.
It is absolutely essential to have the highlights enabled as part of an exposure metering method.

Image Review – On

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Shooting Menu:

File naming
I need all my cameras to have a unique file name. It makes post-production workflow simpler if the images already have a unique name directly out of the camera.

Image Quality - RAW
Simply put, JPG isn’t an option for me. While there are some photographers who would argue the entire RAW vs JPG debate, it really is a trivial one, since the answer is RAW.

NEF (RAW) recording
- Lossless compressed RAW
- 12-bit depth

I chose 12-bit depth over 14 bits (for now), even though some tests (such as this thoughtful consideration by Bob Johnson) show that using 14 bits give slightly better shadow detail.

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My Menu:

custom function a8 – AF point selection

I constantly flip between the 51 point and 11 point selection, although I most often keep the camera to 11 points selection.

change main / sub

Lock mirror up for cleaning
Battery info
World time

These are just general house-keeping settings that I like having grouped together.

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Custom Settings Menu:

a1 .. AF-C priority selection

AF-C is the Continuous Focusing mode, where the shutter can be tripped whether the subject is in focus or not, ie, Release Priority. With this setting, you can turn AF-C into Focus Priority.

default : Release button (ie, FPS is maintained),
my preference : Release + focus

With this custom setting the photographer now has a very powerful option – to change the usual behaviour of AF-C mode in only tripping the shutter when the subject is in focus. Although I’m not sure that is how most photographers would want to use Continuous Focusing, I find it reassuring that the camera will only trip once the subject is in focus.

a3 .. Dynamic AF area

With this setting the number of AF points can be selected.

default : 9 points,
my preference : 51 points (3D-tracking).

The 51 point, 3-D tracking mode works amazingly well in tracking moving objects when shooting in AF-C (servo mode), and setting the Auto Focus mode to Dynamic Area (the center selection).

a8 .. AF point selection

This option allows you to choose either 51 or 11 AF points for manual focus-point selection.

default : 51 points,
my preference : both.

I flip between the two selections, so have this custom function accessible in the My Menu option.

a9 .. Built-in AF assist illuminator

This option controls whether the auto-focus assist light comes on in low light to help auto-focus latch onto the subject.

default : ON,
my preference : OFF.

The bright lamp light can be annoying and intrusive at inopportune moments, so I keep it switched off.

b1 .. ISO sensitivity step value – 1/3rd stop increments
b2 .. EV steps for exposure control – 1/3rd stop increments
b3 .. Exposure comp / fine tune – 1/3rd stop increments

Keeping your exposure controls in 1/3rd stop increments allow for finer tuning of exposure.

c4 .. Monitor Off

With this setting you control how long the LCD display stays up.

default : 20 secs,
my preference : 1 min.

I’m an incorrigible chimper. I like seeing what I just photographed, and also, the histogram and blinking highlights are indispensable tools. Therefore I *need* to chimp. Having a much longer LCD display time helps.

d1 .. Beep

This controls how loud / soft the camera beeps … or not, when acquiring focus or when using the self-timer. It is also used for a low shutter speed warning.

default : high,
my preference : off.

Personal preference again, but I prefer my camera to be quiet.

d8 .. LCD illumination

This option controls whether the LCD lights up only when the power switch is rotated to the lamp position, or when any button is pressed.

default : Off
my preference : On

I most often work in dim areas, and I want to be able to read my LCD without having to precisely select the Lamp button. With this function selected, the LCD will light up whenever I hit any of the D700 camera controls. It just makes it easier for me when the LCD lights up as soon as I handle the camera – then it doesn’t become an extra control that I have to push.

e1 .. Flash sync speed

This option controls whether Auto FP (High-Speed Flash Sync) is automatically enabled for shutter speeds over max sync speed.

default : 1/250th
my preference : 1/250th Auto FP

e3 .. Flash control for built-in flash

This option controls which mode the built-in flash will use.

default : TTL
my recommendation : Commander mode.

Your decision here will rest on whether you need your built-in flash as the main flash or fill-flash (and then TTL would usually make the most sense), or whether you want to use the strobe as the Commander strobe to control a Slave flashgun (a remotely triggered SB-600 / SB-800).

My recommendation would be to keep it to the Commander mode. Since the built-in flash is about the worst kind of way to use flash, you really should be using a larger external strobe to give you more options in using flash.

With the built-in flash set to Commander mode, you can use your external Nikon strobe, and when you need wireless TTL flash, you can simply remove your Nikon Speedlight and you are immediately set to control the Nikon Speedlight in Commander mode.

f2 .. Multi selector center button

With this custom function, the operation of the center button of the multi-selector is defined for the Shooting Mode and Playback Mode.

Shooting Mode :
default : Select center AF point,
my preference : default

I like the default here over the other choice (Illuminate AF area), since this allows me to instantly re-select the center autofocus sensor if I have been using another focusing sensor instead.

Playback Mode :
default : Thumbnail on/off,
my preference : Zoom on/off.

I really like to be able to see a higher magnification of the image. And with the way the joystick works of the multi-selector, it is easy enough to move to any part of the image. Sweet!

f5 .. Assign FUNC. button

This option allows a variety of functions to be assigned to the FUNC button. It is in settings like this, that helps make the D700 shine as a powerful tool for the photographer.

FUNC button press
- default : none
- my preference : Flash Off (the Speedlight is disabled

f6 .. Assign preview button

With this control, you set what the action that preview button will perform. It has a similar set of possibilities as the FUNC button.

Preview button press
- my preference : Spot-metering

f7 .. Assign AE-L / AF-L button

Similarly here, with this button you set whether the AE-L / AF-L button performs the default function of locking exposure and focus, or any of the other options, similar to that of the FUNC button.

I now use this button to disable my flash. Originally I used the Func button, but it gave me an akward hold on the camera when I used my ring finger to keep the button in. Much easier for me now is to use the AE-L / AF-L button to disable the flash.

f11 .. No memory card ?

This option disables the shutter release if there is no CF card.

default : Enable release,
my recommendation : Release locked.

f12 .. Reverse indicators

With this custom setting, the direction of the exposure meter display in the camera can be changed.

default: + —0— -
my preference: - —0— +

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Nikon D700 : preview

Neil vN — Sat, 26 Jul 2008 04:17:52 +0000

hands-on preview: Nikon D700

Nikon D700 ..-. 1/125th @ f3.5 @ 32oo ISO.
[ click on the image to see a 100% crop ]

The Nikon D700 camera (B&H) and Nikon SB-900 speedlight (B&H), were released today, to my great anticipation. I expected to see D3 quality images in a body about the size of the D300, and accessibly priced for what it delivers.

This evening I drove in to Manhattan so I could roam around Times Square to test the low-light capabilities of this camera. This after all is what the D3 is renowned for, and the D700 promises to deliver the same image quality. Outside Toys’R'Us, there was a line of Star Wars fans waiting for a pre-release party of the new Star Wars movie to start, and a few of them graciously posed for me – most impressively of all, a Darth Maul look-alike. (I composed the photograph so that the ferris-wheel inside the shop radiates outward behind him to make for an even more striking portrait.)

The image you see there was taken with only the available light in Times Square. And fair enough, the place is flooded at night with light from the numerous billboards – but I was able to get this image at 1/125th @ f3.5 .. which are ‘easy’ settings to use, but this was at an incredible 3200 ISO. Click on the image to see a 100% crop of the area around his eyes to see the high-ISO noise performance. This is from the straight-out-of-camera JPG. I am impressed!

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Nikon D300 custom settings

Neil vN — Fri, 04 Apr 2008 10:11:48 +0000

The Nikon D300 (which superseded the highly-regarded D200), offers great image quality and offering many of the same features of the Nikon D3, but at a more affordable price - all of which will make the D300 a camera that many professional photographers will chose as their main camera.

Many of the custom settings of the D300 are the same as for the D200, but there are a few differences. (eg, Auto ISO is now set in the Shooting Menu.)

Here are my preferences for the Custom Settings .. and why.

(And here’s the link if you’d like to order the D300 from B&H.)

The Custom Functions are grouped into 6 categories:

a – Autofocus
b – Metering / Exposure
c – Timers / AE & AF Lock
d – Shooting / Display
e – Bracketing / Flash
f – Controls

a1 .. AF-C priority selection

AF-C is the Continuous Focusing mode, where the shutter can be tripped whether the subject is in focus or not, ie, Release Priority. With this setting, you can turn AF-C into Focus Priority.

default : Release button (ie, FPS is maintained),
my preference : Release + focus

There are generally two ways that continuous auto-focusing can be used:
- using AF-ON as the focus lock while initiating AF with the shutter button, or
- with focusing enabled on the rear AF-ON button, and then initiating AF with the AF-ON button, and then locking AF by releasing the AF-ON button. (See custom function a5.)
Doing it in this latter way, would enable the photographer to use follow focus, and then simply by letting go of the AF-ON, use the AF-ON button as a way of holding focus if necessary. This is the way that most sport photographers use AF.

With this custom setting the photographer now has a very powerful option – to change the usual behavior of AF-C mode in only tripping the shutter when the subject is in focus. Although, that said, I am not sure it is how most photographers would want to use Continuous Focusing.

Action photographers usually need the camera to accurately track the subject, and want the shutter to fire when the photographer wants, without the camera deciding otherwise.

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a2 .. AF-S priority selection

AF-S is the Single Focusing mode, where the shutter can only be tripped whether the subject is in focus, ie, Focus Priority.
With this setting, you can turn AF-S into Release Priority.

default : Focus Priority,
my preference : default.

My preference is for the camera’s shutter to only fire when I’ve acquired focus. Then I can lock focus by keeping the shutter button slightly in – allowing me to recompose the picture.

As an aside .. my preference is for the camera to be set to AF-S mode, and with Single Frame Advance, since this way it allowed me to focus on a subject, re-frame, and shoot a sequence with that point of focus locked by the shutter button.

a3 .. Dynamic AF area

With this setting the number of AF points can be selected.

default : 9 points,
my preference : 51 points (3D-tracking).

This custom function is entirely dependent on the individual photographer’s style and needs, but the 51 point, 3-D tracking mode is truly uncanny for how well it works.

a4 .. Focus tracking with Lock-On

With this option you control how the AF adjusts to changes in your subject’s movement.

default : Normal,
my preference : default.

This setting controls the behavior of AF-C mode in that the camera allows for sudden changes in the subject movement, and also makes sure the camera doesn’t hunt when another object briefly obscures your subject in the frame.

The best resource on the implications of this setting, can be found on Digital Darrell’s website: Lock On – Does it Work? (This is for the D2x, but it relates directly to the D300 as well

a5 .. AF activation

With this setting you dictate whether auto-focusing is initiated via either the shutter button or the AF-ON button; or only via the AF-ON button (ie, shutter button doesn’t initiate AF).

default : shutter button / AF-ON,
my preference : default.

The choice here is closely linked to how you prefer activating auto-focus and your choice of focusing mode (AF-C or AF-S), since the behavior of each mode changes slightly whether you focus with the shutter button or the AF-ON button.

I prefer the default because I mostly use my camera in AF-S focusing mode, and use my shutter button to activate and hold auto-focus.

Most sport photographers however, use the AF-ON button to activate auto-focus. Setting custom function a5 to AF-ON, makes most sense if you use Continuous Focusing mode (AF-C), since this setting will then allow you to lock focus by simply releasing the AF-ON button.

a6 .. AF point illumination

This option controls whether the active focus area is illuminated in red in the viewfinder.

default : Auto,
my preference : ON.

I like having it on – then it is immediately obvious at all times exactly where the camera is focusing.

a7 .. Focus point wrap-around

This setting controls whether the focusing sensor selection wraps around, or not.

default : OFF,
my preference : default.

a8 .. AF point selection

This option allows you to choose either 51 or 11 AF points for manual focus-point selection.

default : 51 points,
my preference : default.

a9 .. Built-in AF assist illuminator

This option controls whether the auto-focus assist light comes on in low light to help auto-focus latch onto the subject.

default : ON,
my preference : OFF.

The bright lamp light can be annoying and intrusive at inopportune moments, so I keep it switched off.

a10 .. AF-ON button for MB-D10

The functions assigned to the Vertical AF-ON button are determined with this custom setting.

default : AF-ON,
my preference : default.

The default allows you to simply initiate auto focus.

b1 – ISO sensitivity step value

This custom setting controls whether the shutter speed / aperture increments are in full or 1/2 or 1/3 steps.

default : 1/3 step,
my recommendation : 1/3 step.

Controlling the ISO is as important as controlling aperture and shutter speed in getting to the correct exposure. Therefore as fine a control as possible, is the best choice. Also, since an increase in ISO means an increase in noise, it makes sense to have the ISO increments as small as 1/3rd stop to make for incremental jumps in adjustment.

b2 .. EV steps for exposure control

This custom setting controls whether the shutter speed / aperture increments are in full or 1/2 or 1/3 steps.

default : 1/3 step,
my recommendation : 1/3 step.

Once again it makes most sense to set this to 1/3rd steps, since it allows better fine tuning of exposure – which is essential with digital capture.

b3 .. Exposure comp / fine tune

This custom setting controls whether the exposure compensation increments are in full or 1/2 or 1/3 steps.

default : 1/3 step,
my preference : 1/3 step.

Setting exposure compensation in wider steps than 1/3 stop settings might make bracketing over a wider rage easier, but I still think that using 1/3rd stop increments allow for finer tuning of exposure.

b4 .. Easy exposure compensation

This custom setting dictates whether the [+/-] button is needed as well to dial in exposure compensation, or whether exposure compensation can be dialed in with the CMD dial only.

default : off,
my preference : keep it to the default.

If this setting is changed from the default, then a simple twiddle of the dials will change exposure compensation – very nifty, but all too easy to do by accident when using the camera in day to day photography. It’s simply safer to keep it to the default, where there is an extra safeguard in that the [+/-] button has to be pushed as well, before exposure compensation can be set.

Since I nearly always shoot in Manual Exposure mode anyway, this setting wouldn’t affect my normal operation of the camera. But I can see how this setting would be of real value to someone who shoots constantly in a specific auto mode such as Aperture Priority, where fast access to exposure compensation would be of great help.

b5 .. Center-weighted area

This custom setting controls the size (and hence precision) of the center-weighted metering selection.

default : 8mm,
my preference : 8mm.

This very useful setting allows you to set the metering area wider or much narrower for center-weighted metering. At the narrowest setting it acts like a wide spot-meter reading – not as highly selective as a spot-meter reading, but still precise enough to make specific meter readings off a scene.

Exactly how wide or tight you set the metering pattern is up to personal preference, but my feeling here is that anyone who has a precise approach to exposure metering, would select one of the smaller areas as a default.

b6 .. Fine tune optimal exposure

This custom setting is a very powerful tool. Many photographers want their images to be brighter or darker than the camera gives at the correctly metered default. With this setting you can bias the exposure without having the exposure compensation warning. ie .. this is like permanent exposure compensation built in for each of the metering modes.

default : no,
my preference : default.

I personally like the way that the Nikon cameras meter, which tends to give more saturated images. This also helps protect the highlights with digital photography. But this really is a setting which elevates this camera out of the ordinary, allowing unprecedented control over exposure. Every photographer can now fine-tune the camera’s metering to his / her own taste.

c1 .. Shutter release button AE-L

This option controls whether exposure will lock while the shutter-release is pressed half-way, or only with the AE-L/AF-L button.

default : AE-L Button
my recommendation : keep to the default.

The default makes sense here, since the other option is to have the shutter button work as the exposure lock, which can be confusing, since it links the point of focus to the place you meter – which should not be thought of as the same thing, since it isn’t.

c2 .. Auto meter-off delay

This setting controls how long your camera’s meter reading is displayed in the viewfinder and on top of the camera.

default : 6 secs,
my preference : 16 secs.

Once again, this setting is entirely personal preference, but I like my meter reading not to disappear so soon after I activate it with the shutter button. The battery of the D300 is long-lasting enough that the minor bit of power-saving by having a short meter display period, is off-set by the annoyance of having to press the shutter button repeatedly when taking meter readings.

c3 .. Self-timer delay

This setting controls how long the self-timer takes before tripping the shutter.

default : 10 secs,
my preference : 2 secs.

This setting should be up to personal preference, but I like a shorter self-timer setting, since I mainly use this to stabilize the camera from vibration when working with the camera on a tripod.

c4 .. Monitor Off

With this setting you control how long the LCD display stays up.

default : 20 secs,
my preference : 1 min.

d1 .. Beep

This controls how loud / soft the camera beeps … or not, when acquiring focus or when using the self-timer. It is also used for a low shutter speed warning.

default : high,
my preference : off.

Personal preference again, but I prefer my camera to be quiet.
But I have to admit that the soft beep isn’t intrusive at all.

d2 .. Viewfinder grid display

This allows a grid pattern to be displayed in the viewfinder.

default : off,
my preference varies.

This one is personal preference. The display isn’t intrusive, and it is a useful guide to have as a reference to keep verticals and horisontals correct.

d3 .. Viewfinder warning display

This custom setting enables or disable the low battery warning in the viewfinder.

default : on,
my preference : default.

It makes sense to have a visual reminder of your camera’s battery running low.

d4 .. CL mode shooting speed

This setting controls the maximum frame rate when the camera is set to CL (continuous low-speed).

default : 3 fps
my preference : the default.

I don’t often shoot in Continuous frame-advance, since I prefer the Single Frame mode. Action photographers will set this option to their own requirements.

d5 .. Max continuous release

The Maximum shots taken in a single burst, is set with this.

default : 100,
my preference : keep it to the default.

d6 .. File Number Sequence

This default chooses whether the file names reset to 0001 every time you use a new CF card or new folder, or whether the camera remembers the last file name used and keep numbering sequentially from there on.

default : on,
my recommendation : on.

I’m glad that Nikon had the sense to change this default from what it was with their previous cameras.

File No. Seq OFF – will name the image files the same every time you use a new memory card or a clean memory card. The file naming will resume from the last image recorded on the memory card. This means that if you use more than one memory card, you will have duplicate file names. Even if you only use one memory card, you run will most likely get to the point where you have to rename image files continually on your computer.

File No. Seq ON – will resume file naming from the last name used. So if you use more than one memory card, the file names will be different from each other on the different memory cards. This will save you the bother of having to rename files when you download it on the computer, or of having to keep image files from different memory cards in different folders in your computer.

Although that said, I rename my files to more logical file names, as a matter of course in my raw post-processing workflow.

d7 .. Shooting info display

This option controls whether the LCD displays as dark text on light background; or as light text on dark background This can be done automatically to maintain best contrast for readability.

default : Auto,
my preference : default.

d8 .. LCD illumination

This option controls whether the LCD lights up only when the power switch is rotated to the lamp position, or when any button is pressed.

default : Off,
my preference : On.

I most often work in dim areas, and I want to be able to read my LCD without having to precisely select the Lamp button. With this function selected, the LCD will light up whenever I hit any of the D300 camera controls. It just makes it easier for me when the LCD lights up as soon as I handle the camera – then it doesn’t become an extra control that I have to push.

d9 .. Exposure delay mode

The shutter release is delayed by 1 sec from the moment you press the shutter button.

default : off,
my preference : default.

This option is essential for photographers who shoot at slow shutter speeds or do high-magnification work such as macro photography. The mirror flipping up causes a lot of internal vibrations, and this ‘mirror slap’ can cause photographs to show camera shake. With this setting, the mirror is flipped up instantly as you press the shutter button, but the shutter itself only opens 1 second later when the vibrations from the mirror flipping up, has been damped.

d10 .. MB-D10 battery type

Here you select which batteries you are using in the MB-D10 grip, so that the correct battery levels can be displayed.

my suggestion : use EN-EL3e batteries.

If you use EN-EL3e batteries, which are the best choice of batteries for the D300, then this becomes a moot point.

d11 .. Battery order

With this setting you control whether the camera is powered first from the MB-D10 batteries, or the battery in the camera is depleted first.

default : use MB-D10 batteries first,
my recommendation : default

If you keep one in the camera body even though you have the MB-D10 attached, it somehow just makes perfect sense to have the batteries in the grip deplete first before the camera’s battery.

e1 .. Flash Sync Speed

With this setting you control the maximum flash sync speed that the camera will be able to set.

default : 1/250th,
my recommendation : 1/250th (Auto FP)

I’m not sure why anyone would set a lower than maximum flash sync speed, so it makes most sense to keep the flash sync speed to 1/250th Auto FP. (The speedlight’s output drops when you go over the max sync speed, which is 1/250th for the Nikon D300.)

Even though using the Auto FP high-sync speed option drastically limits the range of the flash, it enables control over depth-of-field with the proper dedicated strobes such as the SB-800 and SB-900. Most of the times when I use a shutter speed higher than max sync speed, I’m using the Speedlight as fill-flash only (and usually dialed down), so the loss in power isn’t really noticed.

e2 .. Flash shutter speed

Here you control the minimum flash sync speed that the camera will set in any of the auto modes.

default : 1/60th,
my preference : 1/30th.

I prefer a slower sync speed in order to allow more ambient light to register. But then, I would rarely use this custom function since I don’t often use an auto mode. I prefer the more considered approach with Manual metering mode, that allows me to drag the shutter for the specific effect I want.

e3 .. Flash control for built-in flash

This option controls which mode the built-in flash will use.

default : TTL
my recommendation : Commander mode.

e4 .. Modeling flash

With this custom setting you control whether the depth-of-field preview button acts as a trigger for the rapid burst from the Speedlight that acts as a modeling flash.

default : ON,
my preference : OFF.

This is helpful if you are using multiple Speedlights in a wireless TTL configuration, and it would then help to enable this at that time.

For a single on-camera strobe it makes less sense, since the modeling flash is already accessible as a button on the SB-800 Speedlight itself, and it doesn’t make much sense to tie up the depth-of-field preview button with this function.

e5 .. Auto bracketing set

e6 .. Auto bracketing (mode M)

e7 .. Bracketing order

These custom functions all control the way that auto-bracketing is set, and therefore is entirely up to the individual photographer’s way of working. I don’t use auto-bracketing, preferring a more specific approach to metering, so I keep these settings to the defaults.

f1 .. Multi selector center button

With this custom function, the operation of the center button of the multi-selector is defined for the Shooting Mode and Playback Mode.

Shooting Mode :
default : Select center AF point,
my preference : default

I like the default here over the other choice (Illuminate AF area), since this allows me to instantly re-select the center autofocus sensor if I have been using another focusing sensor instead.

Playback Mode :
default : Thumbnail on/off,
my preference : Zoom on/off.

I really like to be able to see a higher magnification of the image. And with the way the joystick works of the multi-selector, it is easy enough to move to any part of the image. Sweet!

f2 .. Multi selector

With this setting, the multi-selector can have an additional function when pressed.

default : do nothing,
my preference : the default.

Since I already have something assigned to happen when I press the multi-selector button, it is simpler to just have this CF set to do nothing.

f3 .. Photo Info / Playback

With this setting you can control which direction the multi-selector needs to be pushed to access the info screens for each image, or different images.

default : Playback <–>
my preference : Info <–>

With the D200 and D300, they changed the order of this command from how it is on the D2x. This could be confusing if you use both cameras, so then set the D300 to work like the D2x. (Or the D2x like the D300.)

f4 .. Assign FUNC. button

This option allows a variety of functions to be assigned to the FUNC button. It is in settings like this, that helps make the D300 shine as a powerful tool for the photographer.

FUNC button press
- default : none
- my preference : Flash Off (the Speedlight is disabled

The FV Lock option is also a strong consideration, since it allows you to lock your flash exposure off a specific tonal value, and not have large areas of white or black throw off your TTL flash metering.

FUNC button + dials
- default: Auto Bracketing
- my suggestion: keep it to the default if you shoot in an auto exposure mode.

f5 .. Assign preview button

With this control, you set what the action that preview button will perform. It has a similar set of possibilities as the FUNC button, but it makes most sense to my mind, to keep it as the depth-of-field preview button.

f6 .. Assign AE-L / AF-L button

Similarly here, with this button you set whether the AE-L / AF-L button performs the default function of locking exposure and focus, or any of the other options, similar to that of the FUNC button.

f7 .. Customize command dials

This controls a number of things about the way the command dials work:
- direction of rotation;
- you can also swap the front and rear dials so that the shutter speed is dialed with the front button, and the aperture on the rear dial;
- whether the aperture is dialed in, or adjusted via the aperture ring on the lens;
- the menus and playback.

Any of these settings are purely up to personal preference.

f8 .. Release button to use dial

With this custom setting, you can change the behavior of the camera’s controls from “press a button, and dial”, to “press and release the button, and then dial”. Once again, this is up to personal preference, but I like the default behavior of the camera.

f9 .. No CF card ?

This option disables the shutter release if there is no CF card.

default : Enable release,
my recommendation : Lock release.

Changing away from default makes a lot of sense. You really don’t want to get in to a situation where you think you are capturing images, but not really.

f10 .. Reverse indicators

With this custom setting, the direction of the exposure meter display in the camera can be changed.

default: + —0— -
my preference: - —0— +

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Nikon Custom Curves

Neil vN — Mon, 17 Mar 2008 04:11:23 +0000

One of the original pages on this website a few years back, was on the subject of my choice of Nikon’s custom curves.

Since I changed over to a raw-only workflow about 5 years ago, I haven’t had any need for custom curves. The reason for this is that there are an infinite number of scenarios under which we take photographs, and hence there won’t be any single custom curve which would suit all situations. Lighting scenarios change. The contrast will change, and brightness and other settings will also change. A raw workflow is the most flexible way to adapt to this.

The quest for the perfect custom curve is a dead-end street, and the best advice I can give to anyone who is curious about custom curves – for whatever reason that may be - is to forget about custom curves, and go to a raw workflow. You’ll avoid many headaches this way.

However, I still get emails asking for info and my opinion on custom curves. So for those who are curious about the original page on custom curves, I am re-posting the article here as it originally appeared.

(For anyone else, this page will be trivial and of marginal interest.)

Custom Curves received a lot of attention with the release of the Nikon D100, a camera which many users felt had a tendency to give images which appear to be under-exposed. Some D100 owners used exposure compensation, and others settled for a slightly more elegant work-around to the ‘under-exposure problem’, with user-defined tone curves.

Custom Curves are a way that the camera owner can adjust how the Nikon D-SLR interprets the image’s tonality when the digital file is saved.

This web page was originally written specifically with the D100 in mind, but it could be applied to other Nikon digital cameras as well.

Nikon engineers seem to have had a conservative approach in how images are rendered with the D100 – and this comes across as the D100 giving images out-of-the-camera that appear under-exposed and that require adjusting afterward in Photoshop.

This conservative approach makes sense in that it is easy to bring up detail from areas which are slightly under-exposed, but where an image area is blown out, the detail and picture info is lost and can’t be retrieved.

The Nikon D100 metering appears to be as accurate and consistent as my F90x bodies, (although with certain limitations), so this isn’t just a matter of metering correctly, but has to do with how the images are processed in the D100 itself.

exposure metering ..

Before reading any further about the custom tone curve option with your Nikon D-SLR,
it is very important that you are sure that ..

your basic exposure metering technique is good,

and you understand that using TTL BL instead of Standard TTL under certain conditions could give you under-exposed images, (dependent on the camera you may be using).

I want to stress this point about good metering technique again, by repeating something I mention elsewhere on these pages … that I constantly see people complain on the various internet forums about the D100 or D70 under-exposing … and in the vast majority of cases when they post sample images, it is obvious that the photographer had no idea how to use a camera’s lightmeter. This problem seems to be especially prevalent with people who previously used color print film and unknowingly had the lab correct their mistakes for them, and now expect the same results using digital cameras.

So please, before you latch onto the idea that your D100 (or other Nikon D-SLR) is not a very capable camera,and that your camera gives you grossly under-exposed images, make sure your metering technique is up to scratch.

So do you need a custom curve ?

If this is your first look at custom curves, please take to heart my comments about exposure metering, and then perhaps try the following curves:
- basic-curve_152
- basic-curve_141

As mentioned previously, since I went over to a raw-only workflow, I don’t have any need for custom curves. There are an infinite number of scenarios under which we take photographs, and hence there won’t be a single one custom curve which would suit all situations.

I would really recommend you only use a custom curve if you shoot in JPG and find that you do a lot of repetitive post-processing work in Photoshop, such as adjusting each image by the same amount using Curves.

In this way, a custom curve in the camera, can pre-empt some post-production by biasing the images already towards what you would do anyway afterward. If you are happy with the images your camera produces, you don’t need a custom curve. And again, be aware that there is no single custom curve that will be the best choice in every possible situation. At best you can hope for a better compromise. Custom curves will affect the contrast. If there is a curve to the slope, contrast will change, even if only subtly. Along with a change in contrast, a custom curve will also change the colors. This can be noticeable in how skin tones change when a custom curve is used.

Noise is also increased with any custom curve that raises the darker tones, or which truncates the high-lights.

But if you still feel that the images out of your camera consistently appear too dark, and you find that you regularly spend time adjusting curves in Photoshop, then there are two ways to pre-emptively approach this with a Nikon D-SLR :

exposure compensation Initially with the D100 I tried +0.7 compensation, but found that highlights burnt out – a bad thing especially in wedding photography. I later felt that +0.3 exposure compensation was closer to what I wanted.The other downfall to having the exposure compensation permanently dialed in, is that you end up ignoring the warning flag, and may inadvertently forget having set the exposure compensation to something different than the required +0.3 or +0.7 off-set.
a user-defined custom tone curve This is probably a more elegant way of getting good out-of-camera pictures and will give you images out of the D100 that require less post-processing every time.But please note, that no single custom tone curve will give you the best results under every possible shooting condition.As I mention elsewhere, I have found that under some circumstances, a Normal tone curve with some exposure compensation added, gives me slightly better results than a custom tone curve. Shooting in NEF format easily gives this post-processing flexibility.
exposure compensation Initially with the D100 I tried +0.7 compensation, but found that highlights burnt out – a bad thing especially in wedding photography. I later felt that +0.3 exposure compensation was closer to what I wanted.The other downfall to having the exposure compensation permanently dialed in, is that you end up ignoring the warning flag, and may inadvertently forget having set the exposure compensation to something different than the required +0.3 or +0.7 off-set.
a user-defined custom tone curve This is probably a more elegant way of getting good out-of-camera pictures and will give you images out of the D100 that require less post-processing every time.But please note, that no single custom tone curve will give you the best results under every possible shooting condition.As I mention elsewhere, I have found that under some circumstances, a Normal tone curve with some exposure compensation added, gives me slightly better results than a custom tone curve. Shooting in NEF format easily gives this post-processing flexibility.

a basic custom curve ..

Since I mostly corrected for the D100 under-exposure by bumping up the mid-tones using the Curves setting in Photoshop -
I decided that I may as well use a simple curve like that in-camera.

The custom curve I originally used, was the basic-curve_159,
(pictured on the right), which is a simple curve using a single point to pull the midtones up by around +0.42 stops.
I’ve had variations of this basic curve, and it continually became more conservative with each incarnation.

The curve I then used, and which I’ve had good feedback from other users, was the basic-curve_152, which lifts the mid-tones by only +0.32 stops. If you want to try a custom curve with your D100, then certainly download it and give it a try.

The curve I eventually used as a default with my D100, is the basic-curve_141, and is even more conservative, and only lifts the mid-tones by +0.20 of a stop. This is the curve I used with my D100 at the time, including my wedding photography.

The reason why I went with an even more conservative tone curve, is because I noticed that the contrast in the highlights were affected in a way I didn’t like when I used the 159 curve. The 152 curve on the other hand showed much less change in the contrast than the 159 curve, when compared with the Normal tone curve. And similarly, the effect of the 141 curve is less pronounced, and just gives a nice pop in the overall brightness, without affecting color and contrast in an immediately noticeable way.

Please feel free to download any of these curves to try out and use if you like the results. If you don’t, then it is a simple matter to deselect them in your camera and go back to the Normal default curve. Or you may well want to edit a tone curve in any way that you feel is best suited to the results you expect.

So if this is a first-time try at custom curves, then perhaps try the basic-curve_152 if you have a D100, or the basic-curve_141 if you have a D70 or D2H.

But as I stated above, I use the 141 curve in my D100, and although I have the 141 curve loaded in my D2H, I use Normal Tone as my default.

shooting in RAW ..

A crucial point is that I shoot entirely in NEF / RAW format. This gives me the flexibility of disabling the custom curve after the fact when I post-process my images. If you shoot in JPG, then carefully consider whether you really want to use custom curves, since you will be committed to your choice at the time of taking the photo, unlike the photographer shooting in RAW.

Even though the RAW file format (NEF), allows the most flexibility in post-processing, and the exposure and curves and levels can be adjusted in the computer afterward, I still use a custom tone curve in my D100 when I shoot in RAW mode.

This is because, for me, the custom tone curve will still result in a better out-of-camera image with the D100, when the NEF file is directly converted to JPG without any adjustments. So using a custom tone curve helps in simplifying my digital workflow slightly.

If the image was shot in the NEF format, then the custom tone curve can be deselected after the fact in Nikon Capture Editor. One of the default tone curves similar to the D100 tone curve selections can be re-selected instead – and the tone curve can be adjusted in the Curves menu in Nikon Capture Editor. The NEF file can then also be adjusted for exposure if needed, giving you more latitude than you would’ve had with JPG.

Sometimes a normal tone curve or low contrast tone curve would give better results than a custom tone curve .. and then shooting in RAW format would obviously give the greatest amount of flexibility and also avoid compression, without loss of picture information.

loading a custom tone curve into your camera ..

For this you need Nikon Capture Control, or software like Tone Up. Nikon Capture comes as a 30 day trial version which should allow you some time to see if you like having a custom tone curve available in your D100.
The procedure to upload the custom tone curve is quite easy:

download a custom curve from one of the several sources available on the internet, or create your own with Nikon Capture control.
save the custom tone curve on your computer somewhere
connect your D100 to the computer’s USB port via the cable provided.
switch on the D100.
open Nikon Capture Control.
go into the Nikon Capture Control menu .. Camera >> Edit Camera Curves >> Load

.. now use the browsing window to find the custom tone curve file on your computer, and select it by hitting the “OK” button.

This will upload the custom tone curve into your camera. You should recognize any tone curve in Nikon Capture Control by the line NOT being a straight diagonal line.

The best way to confirm that the custom tone curve is uploaded correctly, is by photographing a subject in the NEF format and opening the photograph in Nikon Capture Editor. Using Tool Palette 2, go to the “Advanced Raw” menu, and you can then change the tone curve for the image by toggling between “Normal” and “User-Defined Custom Curve”. You should see the difference immediately.

You should also be able to confirm the action of the custom tone curve, by shooting two sequential frames in exactly the same way, but the one has the normal tone curve, and the other has the custom tone curve. You should be able to see the difference in the histogram and a slightly brighter image on the LCD. Try this a few times with different subjects.

So do you need a custom curve ?

If this is your first look at custom curves, please take to heart my comments about exposure metering, and then perhaps try the following curves:
- basic-curve_152
- basic-curve_141

Custom curves will affect the contrast. If there is a curve to the slope, contrast will change, even if only subtly. Along with a change in contrast, a custom curve will also change the colors. This can be noticeable in how skin tones change when a custom curve is used. Noise is also increased with any custom curve that raises the darker tones, or which truncates the high-lights.

exposure compensation Initially with the D100 I tried +0.7 compensation, but found that highlights burnt out – a bad thing especially in wedding photography. I later felt that +0.3 exposure compensation was closer to what I wanted.The other downfall to having the exposure compensation permanently dialed in, is that you end up ignoring the warning flag, and may inadvertently forget having set the exposure compensation to something different than the required +0.3 or +0.7 off-set.
a user-defined custom tone curve This is probably a more elegant way of getting good out-of-camera pictures and will give you images out of the D100 that require less post-processing every time.But please note, that no single custom tone curve will give you the best results under every possible shooting condition.As I mention elsewhere, I have found that under some circumstances, a Normal tone curve with some exposure compensation added, gives me slightly better results than a custom tone curve. Shooting in NEF format easily gives this post-processing flexibility.

If you find these articles interesting and of value, then you can help by using
these affiliate links to order equipment & other goodies. Thank you!

Stay informed of new articles via the monthly newsletter.
Also join us on the Tangents forum for further discussions.

Neil vN - tangents » Nikon D-SLR

using the new Nikon D3100 for its video capability

review of the Nikon D3100 video capability

Nikon focusing modes – Nikon D300 / D700 / D3

Auto-focus (AF) settings for the Nikon D300 / D700 / D3 / D3s / D3x

Back-Button Focus / AF-ON button

Continuous-Servo (C) vs Single-Servo (S) focus modes

Release priority vs Focus Priority

AF Area Modes

- Single-Point AF

- Dynamic Area AF

- Auto Area AF

my choice of AF settings on Nikon cameras, specifically the Nikon D3

favorite image from the weekend ..

review: Nikon D5000

Nikon D5000 hands-on review

Nikon D5000 image quality

Nikon D5000 AF speed and accuracy

Nikon D5000 handling

Nikon D5000 specifications (a quick overview)

Nikon D5000 – final comments

the Best Camera in the World ..

the Best Camera in the World ..

Exposure modes: Hyper-Program and Hyper-Manual

. The Best Camera in the World also needs …

camera settings: Nikon D3

Playback Menu:

Shooting Menu:

My Menu:

Custom Settings Menu:

camera settings: Nikon D700

Playback Menu:

Shooting Menu:

My Menu:

Custom Settings Menu:

Nikon D700 : preview

hands-on preview: Nikon D700

Nikon D300 custom settings

a1 .. AF-C priority selection

a2 .. AF-S priority selection

a3 .. Dynamic AF area

a4 .. Focus tracking with Lock-On

a5 .. AF activation

a6 .. AF point illumination

a7 .. Focus point wrap-around

a8 .. AF point selection

a9 .. Built-in AF assist illuminator

a10 .. AF-ON button for MB-D10

b1 – ISO sensitivity step value

b2 .. EV steps for exposure control

b3 .. Exposure comp / fine tune

b4 .. Easy exposure compensation

b5 .. Center-weighted area

b6 .. Fine tune optimal exposure

c1 .. Shutter release button AE-L

c2 .. Auto meter-off delay

c3 .. Self-timer delay

c4 .. Monitor Off

d1 .. Beep

d2 .. Viewfinder grid display

d3 .. Viewfinder warning display

d4 .. CL mode shooting speed

d5 .. Max continuous release

d6 .. File Number Sequence

d7 .. Shooting info display

d8 .. LCD illumination

d9 .. Exposure delay mode

d10 .. MB-D10 battery type

d11 .. Battery order

e1 .. Flash Sync Speed

e2 .. Flash shutter speed

e3 .. Flash control for built-in flash

e4 .. Modeling flash

e5 .. Auto bracketing set

e6 .. Auto bracketing (mode M)

e7 .. Bracketing order

f1 .. Multi selector center button

f2 .. Multi selector

f3 .. Photo Info / Playback

f4 .. Assign FUNC. button

.
The Best Camera in the World also needs …