In relation to flash + ambient light, and more so, when you decide to use fill flash as opposed to a predominant light source.
I’ve read all your tangents, and have both books, and I am looking for the most simplistic personal opinion / definition, so here goes.
How do you decide when the ambient light is correct and then use fill flash to lift shadows or make the image POP !!!
As opposed to “flat and even light” where you under expose the ambient light by a stop or two.
Is it the case that you can just look at the scene (light etc) and say, “yeah fill flash here “. The available light is so nice or !!!!!!

Cheers

Angelo (Australia)

We always have to fight raccoon eyes, sun, etc.

I see a camera in front of the BG but you must have been on a balcony because of the angle of the shot.

many years I’m reading your site and the two books because as a non professional I need practice and advise to much. So I come to this page to read it again. Thanks for sharing it with us and congratulations with your USA citizenship.

Matt … I do gel the flash if the general color if the light is warm.

Check comment #6 and 7 on this page about speedlights and accessories.

Neil vN

I have tried using sb-600 flash for fill when the evening sun is side lighting or backlighting my subject. But the color of the sun is obviously much warmer than the flash fill which even at fec -2 or -3 is still enough fill to give a cold cast to the face. Have you had much success using filters on the flash to match the sunlight? I would rather not have to balance (correct) the colors of two light sources in post processing.. not my strength :) Is there a simple way to attach films to the flash head?

I sometimes have the same issue with tungsten light and flash indoors, but when bouncing off nuetral painted walls.. it seems to warm up the light enough. My main issue outside when i have nothing warm to bounce off of an have to point direct at the subject.

Hi there Jon …

TTL flash exposure is calculated via the pre-flash, as seen in this diagram.

The amount of light that is measured from this preflash (of known intensity), tells the camera and flash how much light to put out for the actual exposure. So you don’t need your flash pointed forward for this. In other words, if you bounce your flash, TTL flash is most likely the easier option.

Neil vN

When using TTL flash exposure do you have to aim the flash directly at the subject? I have been experimenting with my new speedlight and I find myself using manual flash power and bouncing the light off of the walls.

It is impossible to say what the maximum distance would be, since it depends on your flashgun’s power; your choice of ISO and aperture; and also on how far you are from the surface you’re bouncing off.

And … you do need an umbrella and radio transmitters if you’re serious about wedding photography. Some things need to be done properly.

Neil vN