Comments on: 03 – dragging the shutter http://neilvn.com/tangents photography by Neil van Niekerk Sat, 11 Feb 2012 00:03:22 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 By: Tom Bond http://neilvn.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/3-dragging-the-shutter/#comment-39323 Tom Bond Thu, 02 Feb 2012 16:59:02 +0000 http://planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/3-dragging-the-shutter/#comment-39323 ok thanks Niel, Also would you say to have the flash zoomed in? would this help to narrow the spread of light just onto the sbject rather than spread it across if it was zoomed out? ok thanks Niel, Also would you say to have the flash zoomed in? would this help to narrow the spread of light just onto the sbject rather than spread it across if it was zoomed out?

]]> By: Neil vN http://neilvn.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/3-dragging-the-shutter/#comment-39321 Neil vN Thu, 02 Feb 2012 16:46:54 +0000 http://planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/3-dragging-the-shutter/#comment-39321 <blockquote>Tom, you would really have to do a few test shots without flash to see how the background registers. And then find your settings so that there is at least a hint of detail in the background. In a dark place, f5.6 and 400 ISO would be settings that would work against you. You ave to chase the higher ISOs and wider apertures .... and slower shutter speeds. Neil vN</blockquote>

Tom, you would really have to do a few test shots without flash to see how the background registers. And then find your settings so that there is at least a hint of detail in the background.

In a dark place, f5.6 and 400 ISO would be settings that would work against you. You ave to chase the higher ISOs and wider apertures …. and slower shutter speeds.

Neil vN

]]> By: Tom Bond http://neilvn.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/3-dragging-the-shutter/#comment-39320 Tom Bond Thu, 02 Feb 2012 16:42:14 +0000 http://planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/3-dragging-the-shutter/#comment-39320 Hi Niel, i take photos for a nightclub on a saturday night, it was my first week last week and was hoping for better results, i wanted to capture the lights in the club behind my subjects either in motion or just catch the rays spreading out, but i kept coming out with just dark backgrounds. I was using a flashgun in manual on around 1/16 and my camera setting were aout 1/20-1/50 shutter - 3.5-5.6 and iso from 400-1600, i've used these setting before in a similar venue and got the background spot on but without using a flash. its a really dark club with a very low ceiling and its all painted black/dark green. Should i just drop my shutter speed to capture the lights behind maybe like 1''- 1/4? Hi Niel, i take photos for a nightclub on a saturday night, it was my first week last week and was hoping for better results, i wanted to capture the lights in the club behind my subjects either in motion or just catch the rays spreading out, but i kept coming out with just dark backgrounds. I was using a flashgun in manual on around 1/16 and my camera setting were aout 1/20-1/50 shutter – 3.5-5.6 and iso from 400-1600, i’ve used these setting before in a similar venue and got the background spot on but without using a flash. its a really dark club with a very low ceiling and its all painted black/dark green. Should i just drop my shutter speed to capture the lights behind maybe like 1”- 1/4?

]]> By: Neil vN http://neilvn.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/3-dragging-the-shutter/#comment-34770 Neil vN Thu, 29 Dec 2011 02:57:03 +0000 http://planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/3-dragging-the-shutter/#comment-34770 <blockquote>Ralph .. generally, the way the flash head is zoomed (wide / tele) is seen as something that affects flash <strong>power</strong>. Similarly, adding diffusion material or some kind of other flash modifier, is seen as something you're doing to affect the flash's output - hence, the flash <strong>power</strong>. Neil vN</blockquote>

Ralph .. generally, the way the flash head is zoomed (wide / tele) is seen as something that affects flash power. Similarly, adding diffusion material or some kind of other flash modifier, is seen as something you’re doing to affect the flash’s output – hence, the flash power.

Neil vN

]]> By: Ralph http://neilvn.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/3-dragging-the-shutter/#comment-34768 Ralph Thu, 29 Dec 2011 01:51:05 +0000 http://planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/3-dragging-the-shutter/#comment-34768 Hi Neil, Your blog is terrific and has compelled me to purchase your books, not just because of the great content, but also because of your generosity. Another book I read listed the 4 controls of manual flash as aperture, ISO, distance, and flash zoom. So, if we also include "power" from your list above, does that mean there are actually 5 controls of manual flash? Thank you! Ralph Hi Neil,

Your blog is terrific and has compelled me to purchase your books, not just because of the great content, but also because of your generosity.

Another book I read listed the 4 controls of manual flash as aperture, ISO, distance, and flash zoom. So, if we also include “power” from your list above, does that mean there are actually 5 controls of manual flash?

Thank you!

Ralph

]]> By: Neil vN http://neilvn.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/3-dragging-the-shutter/#comment-27242 Neil vN Wed, 31 Aug 2011 18:12:52 +0000 http://planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/3-dragging-the-shutter/#comment-27242 <blockquote>David, without seeing the images, I will guess that your camera moved ... i.e., camera shake. <a href="http://neilvn.com/tangents/2008/10/05/faster-shutter-speeds-for-sharper-photos/">1/60th is a slow shutter speed</a>. If the fringing is black, then it is most definitely due to the flash freezing some of the movement, and with your subject or your camera moving then. A stofen doesn't soften the flash when you work outdoors, since the light source is still the same size as the bare flash-tube would've been. Neil vN</blockquote>

David, without seeing the images, I will guess that your camera moved … i.e., camera shake. 1/60th is a slow shutter speed.

If the fringing is black, then it is most definitely due to the flash freezing some of the movement, and with your subject or your camera moving then.

A stofen doesn’t soften the flash when you work outdoors, since the light source is still the same size as the bare flash-tube would’ve been.

Neil vN

]]> By: David http://neilvn.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/3-dragging-the-shutter/#comment-27230 David Wed, 31 Aug 2011 13:26:47 +0000 http://planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/3-dragging-the-shutter/#comment-27230 Hello Neil, just found your blog , excellent. i have a question regarding a particular scenario at the weekend.A wedding ,very rushed group shots in overcast ( UK ) skies. Manual exposure , with flash /stofen hand held remote in front of and above the group as high as I could manage . Most shots were fine ,perhaps a little hot. Settings were around 1/60, f8, ISO800. What we experienced was a weird fringing effect on the outer edges of the group ( group of 10 people in two rows), I have no idea what caused this , the people did looked a little cut out. Very interesting note about use of stofen/ diffusers, I always was under the impression they softened the light never thought of using an open space to bounce from and certainly not with an open lens on the flash. Also good to see that on camera can be just as subtle ,hand holding is a nuisance and does stop you from keeping the camera steady. Thanks David Hello Neil, just found your blog , excellent. i have a question regarding a particular scenario at the weekend.A wedding ,very rushed group shots in overcast ( UK ) skies. Manual exposure , with flash /stofen hand held remote in front of and above the group as high as I could manage . Most shots were fine ,perhaps a little hot. Settings were around 1/60, f8, ISO800.
What we experienced was a weird fringing effect on the outer edges of the group ( group of 10 people in two rows), I have no idea what caused this , the people did looked a little cut out.

Very interesting note about use of stofen/ diffusers, I always was under the impression they softened the light never thought of using an open space to bounce from and certainly not with an open lens on the flash. Also good to see that on camera can be just as subtle ,hand holding is a nuisance and does stop you from keeping the camera steady.
Thanks David

]]> By: Neil vN http://neilvn.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/3-dragging-the-shutter/#comment-20653 Neil vN Tue, 19 Apr 2011 14:46:58 +0000 http://planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/3-dragging-the-shutter/#comment-20653 <blockquote>Sort of ... but the phrases 'dragging the shutter' and 'slow flash sync' are usually used in different contexts. But the implication is the same - a slower shutter speed with flash. Neil vN</blockquote>

Sort of … but the phrases ‘dragging the shutter’ and ‘slow flash sync’ are usually used in different contexts. But the implication is the same – a slower shutter speed with flash.

Neil vN

]]> By: Sam http://neilvn.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/3-dragging-the-shutter/#comment-20641 Sam Tue, 19 Apr 2011 09:42:25 +0000 http://planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/3-dragging-the-shutter/#comment-20641 Great post Neil. This is the same as slow sync flash, isn't it? Great post Neil. This is the same as slow sync flash, isn’t it?

]]> By: Neil vN http://neilvn.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/3-dragging-the-shutter/#comment-21345 Neil vN Tue, 19 Apr 2011 01:49:44 +0000 http://planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/3-dragging-the-shutter/#comment-21345 <blockquote>April .. flash will only freeze the action completely if the ambient light is 5 stops or more under-exposed. The closer your ambient exposure gets to being correct (at slow shutter speeds), the more it will register, and show motion blur regardless of flash. Related articles: <a href="http://neilvn.com/tangents/2009/08/19/shutter-speed-with-flash/">Choice of shutter speed with flash</a> <a href="http://neilvn.com/tangents/2011/04/15/finding-something-to-bounce-your-flash-off/">Finding something to bounce your flash off</a> - read the comments from #11 onwards. Re your question 2 about <a href="http://neilvn.com/tangents/2010/07/14/overpowering-hard-sun-with-flash/">matching the sun with flash</a>: The basic technique here is to get your ambient exposure so that you don't lose detail (ie, clip). This is best attempted at max flash sync speed and your lowest (base) ISO. Then you find your aperture where you don't lose detail in your subject ... and expose your flash for that aperture. Neil vN</blockquote>

April .. flash will only freeze the action completely if the ambient light is 5 stops or more under-exposed. The closer your ambient exposure gets to being correct (at slow shutter speeds), the more it will register, and show motion blur regardless of flash.

Related articles:
Choice of shutter speed with flash
Finding something to bounce your flash off – read the comments from #11 onwards.

Re your question 2 about matching the sun with flash:
The basic technique here is to get your ambient exposure so that you don’t lose detail (ie, clip).
This is best attempted at max flash sync speed and your lowest (base) ISO.
Then you find your aperture where you don’t lose detail in your subject … and expose your flash for that aperture.

Neil vN

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