I received your book yesterday and I’m really enjoying it. Great information.

Andy, check out this page on the effects of maximum flash sync speed. It should answer your questions in more detail.

However, in short quickly .. yes, you could just keep your camera to the max flash sync speed, and it will operate in normal mode. The exception here is the Canon 5D and 5D mk2. (There may be others, but I’m only aware of those two cameras.)

But go through the article .. it answers your questions in more detail.

Neil vN

Regarding high-speed sync, if a camera flash sync speed is set fast (for example, 1/320 Auto FP mode on a Nikon), I understand this allows faster shutter speeds at the expense of some flash power due to the flash ‘pulsing’. For shutter speeds below the flash sync setting – for example, 1/125 – does the flash work in the normal way? That is to say, non high-speed sync / pulsed?

I know that settings for aperture, ISO, shutter speed and flash power must be fluid and changed according to individual situations. My question is whether choosing flash sync speed to a fast mode (Auto FP for Nikon) is one kind of setting that can be made and generally left at that value? Until a situation where it was needed to be slower (although I honestly don’t know what that might be!).

Hope the question makes sense. Thanks again. Andy

Jack

Hi there Jack ..

Indeed, in that image you refer to, I am using flash. If 1/80 @ f2.8 @ 1600 would’ve given me correct exposure, then 1/160th @ f2.8 @ 800 ISO would’ve under-exposed by two stops.

But the image is correctly exposed because I allowed my TTL flash to give me correct exposure. It’s a basic technique … under-expose your ambient light by some degree, and then let flash (whether TTL or manual), take up the slack.

Neil vN

Re the bride picture on this page. You state that you where squeezing the light at 1/80 F2.8 and ISO 1600. Yet when you take that brill picture your settings are now 160 2.8 800. I appreciate that you are pobably using flash as the main light.

I have a wedding this wekend, and the weather forcast means all of the shots will be indoors. Light levels will be fairly low so it is very important that I grasp the idea from the above church shot. It’s probably something ver simple.

Jack

Eleazer .. the simplest and most reliable way to measure manual flash .. is with a flashmeter. I use the Sekonic L358 when I do use a flasmeter. But I mostly just use the histogram.

Neil vN

I understand how I need to meter for the background and then use my speedlight. I have a SB-600 and I wanted to know what power level in manual mode should I start with? I usually have to take 10 test shots to get it right. I want to be faster at getting my settings right. Not all subjects want to wait that long.

Calum .. if you’re getting a hard flashed look to your images, it is because there is direct flash of some kind. It is most likely because you’re bouncing in such a way that, from your subject’s point of view, they can see part of the flashtube (or your plastic light modifier).

Neil vN