
With the recent posts on lighting the formal wedding photos, a question came about what the flash exposure compensation (FEC) was that I had used. (The image above is from the sequence.) Instead of replying in that thread where the reply might get lost, I thought I’d post it as a separate short article.
My settings for that photograph: 1/100th @ f3.2 @ 800 ISO
and flash was bounced TTL flash.
How much FEC did I dial in? I could answer that my FEC was +0.7 EV, but that numerical value might not contain enough real information …
For a start, you’d have to keep in mind whether you want flash as fill-flash, or as a main source of light .. or something in-between.
Also, it necessary to realize that different camera+flash combination’s respond differently than other camera+flash combination’s. As an example, have a look at these posts from earlier this year ..
more subtle fill-flash from the Nikon SB-900;
comparison between the Nikon and Canon flash systems.
There you will see that in the same situation, I’d have to dial in -3 EV on the Canon 5D (with 580EX II) and -5ev on the Nikon D3 (with SB-900) to get the same results for subtle fill-flash.
So any time you’re given the FEC value as part of the EXIF data with any image, you have to keep that fact into account – that different flash systems react differently. And they in turn react differently with different camera bodies.
With the D3 + SB-900, I use -0.7 EV as my default FEC when I use on-camera flash as my main source of light. With the Canon 1D mk2 and Canon 5D, I would use +0.3 EV as my default, but with the 1DmkIII, I would use 0EV as my default when flash is the dominant light source.
All of this is in addition to various other factors that influence the amount of FEC needed.
These are mentioned on the page on flash exposure compensation, but let’s go over some of them:
Since TTL flash is an automatic metering mode, there are a number of things to keep in in mind when considering how much FEC might required for correct exposure:
– the tonality of your subject / scene,
– how you compose your image,
- whether your subject is central or off-center,
- how large your subject is in your frame,
– how strong the back-lighting is.
With the sequence of photographs of the bride, I had to keep in mind that the white dress will fool the camera’s flash metering system. Since the composition is quite straightforward, that wouldn’t have much of an effect on the TTL exposure, even with me pulling back the zoom for wider shots, or zoom in tighter. But the white dress and back-lighting would have a definite effect.
For a clear understanding of exposure metering, I would highly recommend that you read up on the Zone System.
As a quick approximation, consider that your camera’s meter will try and expose for the subject+scene as a mid-tone, or try and average out what it sees, as an average of a mid-tone. Something like block #5 in this diagram.

So if you point your camera to a scene containing predominantly lighter tones, (somewhere around blocks 7 – 8), then your camera’s meter will try to expose for the scene as if it is pointed at a scene which looks like block #5. Therefore, to get correct exposure, you have to push your exposure up so that the lighter tones actually appear as lighter tones, and not darker tones.
This is where you’d use your FEC to push up your flash exposure to give you correct exposure. Do keep in mind this is NOT the same as over-exposure. You are exposing correctly by pushing your exposure up.
Back to the image at the top .. the bride and the white dress and backlighting would most likely be similar to blocks #7 to 8. I now have to dial my FEC up, since my camera will try to expose for the subject+scene as a mid-tone such as block #5. With TTL flash, you’d anticipate this since you can see your scene is darker / lighter than average, and take a test shot … and then adjust your FEC to taste further if needed.
With TTL flash, this does become an “educated guess & adjust” process .. and there is variation in exposure as you change your composition. But I can work faster with TTL flash in certain situations than I would be able to with manual flash.
With that image, my FEC was at +0.7EV since I needed 1.3 stops more light than my usual default to keep all the tones brighter. If I didn’t dial my FEC up from my default, the image would’ve been under-exposed. So I needed more flash to expose correctly. How much flash exposure compensation do you need? It would depend on what camera and flash you are using, and what the scenario is that you find yourself in … as well as your intended results.
Specific values for FEC might not tell you the entire story, since you need to adjust your FEC as is needed.
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Hello Neil,
good news from Europe (UK). As of today your book “On Camera Flash” is available in England. I got yesterday a message from amazon.co.uk saying that your book will now be shipped to me. I pre ordered your book maybe 2 months ago and 1 hour ago the postman was ringing at the door.
Unfortunately I don’t have a flashlight for my Nikon D700 yet, so I will be shooting my first wedding as a second shooter in November just with “available light”.
Comment by Andreas Schroeder — October 12, 2009 @ 9:36 am
Neil,
I have been a long time follower of your blog for several years. I really appreciate all your efforts in de-mystifying many of the technical aspects of flash and ambient exposure. Your book is an excellent resource that I recommend as well as your blog on a consistent basis.
I am gradually working toward doing weddings. I remember sometime back(couple of years ago I think) a post you did just after a workshop here in Raleigh, NC. You mentioned a photographer Brian Mullins(http://wwww.brianmullinsphotography.com) on one of your posts. I find it a small world that my first wedding second shooter gig this past July was with Brian. He is an amazing wedding photography and spoke very highly of you and your efforts. He is a founding member and very active in weddingphotographicsociety.com which puts together many of the local Raleigh wedding photographers sharing ideas to elevate the wedding photography industry. I still have much to learn but I really appreciate the efforts that you and Brian for the photography community.
Keep up the good work, wish you were still doing workshops down here in Raleigh. I was a little too early in game last time.
Steve
Comment by Steve Jackle — October 12, 2009 @ 10:55 am
Neil…On plate 14-2(bottom), you used 1/320 second. Why was high speed sync used?
Couldn’t you have used your maximum flash speed? Your book is great and if you plan a second book I would like to see more overview of the scene and more of the positioning of the snoot i.e.up, down….Enjoyed the book a great deal and found it very informative….lokking foward to book #2..
Comment by cappy — October 12, 2009 @ 3:46 pm
Comment by Neil — October 12, 2009 @ 5:19 pm
Hi Neil, I’ve one Q regarding exposing correctly using FEC.
Would use FEC Lock at +1 FEC on the bride’s dress (white) before recomposing and firing the shutter and flast be more effective?
We decided to expose correctly on the brighter area in the photo. That way, we can be assure of consistent exposurre with the bride in the photos.
Hope to hear from you.
Comment by origor — October 12, 2009 @ 8:01 pm
Comment by Neil — October 12, 2009 @ 9:21 pm
I know EV doesn’t add to FEV in canons, but with Nikon at least, could you set EV+1, always spot on the bride’s dress, and not really need to mess with FEV much?
Comment by Val — October 12, 2009 @ 10:00 pm
Comment by Neil — October 12, 2009 @ 11:23 pm
Val,
You’ve got to keep in mind that EC is totally separate from FEC, no matter which brand of camera you use. When you’re dealing with on-camera flash photography like this, EC only corresponds to metering and compensate for the ambient light. FEC, however, corresponds to metering and compensate with the flash firing to light your subject.
Comment by Albert — October 13, 2009 @ 12:57 am
Comment by Neil — October 13, 2009 @ 1:25 am
Hi Neil
Interested in this – if your camera meter see the dress won’t it make the same zone 5 change so even adding X amount fec would still see the camera pulling the image back to zone 5? What would happen if the camera was used to push the exposure for the dress back up say with +1ev as an example? The result on Nikon cameras, would see the flash fire also taking into account the + ev in this example even though the flash would actually be set at zero fec.
Have I missed something fundamental here?
By the way, also now waiting on delivery of your book.
Cheerio
Hoddo
Comment by hoddo — October 14, 2009 @ 9:27 am
Comment by Neil — October 14, 2009 @ 10:02 am
“– how you compose your image,
– whether your subject is central or off-center,”
I saw no mention of FV Lock with the Nikon systems.
I use this feature all the time, so much so I’ve dedicated one of my function buttons to it.
Is this something you would recommend Neil when re-composing?
Comment by Pete — October 14, 2009 @ 10:41 am
Comment by Neil — October 14, 2009 @ 5:48 pm
Just finished reading On-Camera Flash and enjoyed it very much. I’m sure it will make more and more sense as I begin putting your suggestions to use. I’m a beginning photographer and only have a camera and an on-camera flash. I’m trying to learn how to make the most of what I have and your book gave me a great headstart. Just wanted to say thanks.
Comment by KimmyVC — October 15, 2009 @ 3:50 am
From now on I will follow your blog! :)
Comment by Otto Haring — October 21, 2009 @ 12:07 pm
I think I know what Hoddo is angling at. He/she was maybe wondering whether the camera’s desire to expose for middle grey would override the FEC by taking it into account in its calculations and then still exposing for middle grey. So he/she was then asking whether to get around this problem you’d bump the exposure up on the camera rather than on the flash (which would stay at 0 FEC), I guess to really give the camera the message!
I think you’ve answered that when you say the FEC would take your exposure up to where you want it, rather than the camera cancelling it out.
But I’m still wondering myself when you’d use EC on the camera and when you’d use FEC. If I zoom in to fill my frame with a white dress, bump up the EC to nearly +2 to show the camera I want that to be white, then step back and take a shot with bounced flash, should I be pushing up the FEC as well as making that EC change?
Thanks Neil.
Comment by Catherine — October 23, 2009 @ 4:09 pm
Comment by Neil — October 25, 2009 @ 4:41 am
Neil,
Not clear on this statement:
“With that image, my FEC was at +0.7EV since I needed 1.3 stops more light than my usual default to keep all the tones brighter. ”
How did you figure out that by +0.7EV FEC you’ll have 1.3 stops more light ?.
TIA,
JohnG
Comment by JohnG — May 30, 2010 @ 8:55 pm
Comment by Neil vN — June 6, 2010 @ 7:46 am