making your images pop – through choice of lens and technique
The immediate reaction when considering how you could make your photographs *pop* might be to juice it up in Photoshop. But the process should start much earlier – in camera. With a few easy techniques, we can consistently create images that jump off the page or screen.
The most recent photo session posted on my Facebook photography page, had some comments about the 3D look to some of the photographs, and that prompted this article on how to make your images pop …
A. technique
1. choice of lens
The way that the couple, Lindsay and Chris are isolated / separated from the background, is mainly due to my choice of lens – the 70-200mm f/2.8
Whether it is the Nikon 70-200mm f2.8 AF-S VR II (B&H), or the Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II (B&H), this optic is essential for on-location portraits.
With workshops, I’ve seen attendees make a common mistake in choosing a focal length. They stand at a certain (comfortable) distance from the subject / model, and then zoom to fill the viewfinder with the composition they want. The problem here is that most often they are standing too close to the subject, and are zooming to a too-wide focal length.
A better approach is to zoom to your maximum focal length, and then step backwards until you find your composition … and then only zoom wider if necessary. Doing it this way, forces you to use the longest focal length that makes sense for a specific composition. It might seem like a trivial adjustment to your technique, but it could very well change the way your photo look by forcing a longer focal length.
details for 1st image:
1/250 @ f4 @ 640 ISO
Nikon D3S (B&H); Nikon 70-200mm f2.8 AF-S VR II (B&H) .. at 150mm
details for 2nd image:
1/250 @ f4 @ 400 ISO
Nikon D3S (B&H); Nikon 70-200mm f2.8 AF-S VR II (B&H) .. at 150mm
The longer lens also helps in eliminating distracting elements in the background because of the tighter field of view. With the image at the top, I also lay down on the grass to hide people in the background, exactly as described in this linked article. Eliminate and simplify!
2. choice of lens aperture
A wide-ish aperture with a longer focal length, will give you shallower depth of field. This shallow DoF will blur the background. With this in mind, I most often work in the f2.8 to f4 range when I use a 70-200mm lens. And to reiterate something – shallow DoF is not the same as bokeh.
3. distance to the background
Coupled with the choice of wide aperture and a longer focal length, it helps to position yourself and your subject so that your background is distant. This is why the 2nd image has such a painterly feel to the background – it is distant enough and the lens aperture is wide enough to blur it.
B. Lighting
The lighting here is also important to lend a certain crispness to the image and help separate the couple from the more muted background. The sky was overcast, so the light was soft … but it was top-heavy, giving shadowed eyes.
The lighting here was straight-forward off-camera flash with the Lastolite 24×24 Ezybox softbox. The off-camera flash was in TTL mode, with FEC around -2 or -3 EV.
C. Post-processing of the image
Finally, I have to mention that I did in fact use a basic Photoshop technique to give the images a bit more contrast and saturation. I did this by creating a Soft Light layer at 30% as described in this linked article.
But long before I even felt the image could need a bit more punch, the essential techniques were there to ensure that the images I got in-camera didn’t need Photoshop work to make the pop.
more images from this photo session:
- album on Facebook
- blog post – One Perfect Moment
equipment used during this photo session:
Nikon D3S (B&H); Nikon 70-200mm f2.8 AF-S VR II (B&H)
Nikon SB-900 (B&H); Nikon SD-9 battery pack (B&H)
PocketWizard FlexTT5 transceiver (B&H)
PocketWizard AC3 Zone Controller (B&H)
Lastolite Hot Shoe EZYBOX Kit (24″x24″) (B&H)
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Hi Neil,
1. Will the LED Light or reflector work in this situation too?
2. Why did you choose to change the ISO instead of shutter speed?
Thank you,
Ups
Comment by Ups — November 17, 2011 @ 10:15 am
Comment by Neil vN — November 17, 2011 @ 11:06 am
I’ve got the 70-200 v1 lens and it’s great!
Comment by Derek — November 17, 2011 @ 2:39 pm
” zoom to your maximum focal length, and then step backwards until you find your composition … and then only zoom in if necessary.”
Hi Niel
I’m assuming you meant zoom OUT in this sentence right?
Comment by Rodger — November 17, 2011 @ 3:02 pm
Comment by Neil vN — November 17, 2011 @ 6:03 pm
Thank you Neil. Great tutorial. Thanks for links too. How do you get the colors so true and beautiful? I think you shoot on auto white balance right? If so what if any post-processing software or technique do you use to make any color corrections needed? Or are your great colors more a result of getting the light and exposure right in the first place?
Comment by Jennifer Lynch — November 17, 2011 @ 6:54 pm
Comment by Neil vN — November 17, 2011 @ 9:36 pm
Hello Neil! Thank you for your post! Like always something cool to learn from you.
You’re truly inspiring photographer and teacher :)
Comment by Joanna Kapica — November 17, 2011 @ 10:42 pm
The longest focal length I have is a 100mm 2.8. Would it be sufficient to achieve this look?
Comment by Laura N. — November 18, 2011 @ 1:27 am
Comment by Neil vN — November 18, 2011 @ 1:30 am
Apart from better photos, using a larger distance to your subject is less intimidating to the subjects and yourself (helps to overcome your shyness).
Comment by Frank — November 18, 2011 @ 2:39 am
Neil,
It’s a Canon 5D Mark II and the lens is the 100 2.8L macro.
Comment by Laura N. — November 18, 2011 @ 4:00 am
Comment by Neil vN — November 18, 2011 @ 9:22 am
Thank you so much Neil (for comment #7) and for the great link. How great it will be to get color consistency! Especially with skin color.
Comment by Jennifer Lynch — November 18, 2011 @ 10:06 am
Great tutorial. What really jumped out at me is when you discussed the common mistake of standing too close to the subject and then zooming. I am definitely going to keep that is mind.
Also, I have a 24mm – 105mm F4 on a 7D. Do you think I can achieve a similar effect. Thanks and look forward to attending one of your workshops.
Comment by Anselm — November 18, 2011 @ 2:22 pm
Comment by Neil vN — November 19, 2011 @ 1:05 am
Hi Neil!! Great tips and photos as usual! Oh yes, congrats with the citizenship. We still need to file ours, did you do dual? Anyhow, how do you fix a person’s glare on their skin in a photo? (Daardie blink weerkaatsing van vel olies??)
Dirk
Comment by Dirk Uys — November 19, 2011 @ 4:52 pm
Comment by Neil vN — November 22, 2011 @ 1:11 am
You talked about maintaining a proper distance from the subject. Just wondering how far away were you from the couple? Thanks. And thanks for sharing your knowledge. I love your site as well as your on-camera flash book (hoping to get the off-camera flash book for Christmas.)
Comment by Amy Eko — November 23, 2011 @ 12:44 am
Comment by Neil vN — November 23, 2011 @ 1:16 am
Neil,
A friend of mine maintained dual South African and US Citizenship. He said the other passport made him more welcome in certain countries while travelling on business.
In any case, welcome aboard!
David Graham
Comment by Dave Graham — November 24, 2011 @ 1:36 am
Hey Neil,
Awesome examples regarding effective use of focal length and aperture. As typical, your presentation style and descriptive ways work great.
Regards, Mike
Comment by Mike Bohlmann — November 25, 2011 @ 2:03 pm
Tack sharp, great color, over cast pops color. Under expose 1/2 to 1 stop. Any Topaz color pop here?
Great thinking out of the box. I will put this one to practice.
Love that it is F4 at 150. Don’t think that F2.8 would blur background much more.
I prefer F4 to retain some detail over F2.8. the Flash soft box uses all the flash light pointed at the subject verse a shoot through umbrella spreading the light all around
thanks
Comment by Kirk — November 30, 2011 @ 12:33 am
Comment by Neil vN — November 30, 2011 @ 1:50 am
Neil, I can absolutely concur with everything you said about the 70-200/2.8 lenses from either manufacturer. Whenever I swap out to this lens on the job……..magic happens :) I love using it, and clients fall in love with the images from it.
On a side note, I recently upgraded my PW’s to the newer Flex’s after watching your video on using them. I have shot two weddings with them since, and I’m very impressed. Thanks a million.
Congrats’ on the citizenship also.
Peter
Comment by Peter Marin — November 30, 2011 @ 2:06 am
Would an 85 1.4 suffice?
The field of view would be different to 150mm or 200mm, but the focus plane would be thin depending on distance between yourself and the subject.
Comment by Jas — November 30, 2011 @ 5:19 pm
Ps love the website, your doing a great job inspiring others with your knowledge and insight. If you ever do a workshop in the England I would be happy to sign up.
Comment by Jas — November 30, 2011 @ 5:20 pm
Hi Neil, I can’t thank you enough for your work and this website. My images are now quite different due to my expanded knowledge in using flash so many, many thanks.
In regards to long lens, I have a wedding (my first!) to do in Tasmania next month and I have been wondering if I should use my 100-400mm L IS Canon as my second lens due to my desire to use longer focal length for the couple at the beach? Or is this too much? My only other lenses are 50mm “macro” f/2.5 or the every so slow 70-300mm IS. It will be used on a canon 30D and my primary camera/lens combination is 40D/24-105mm L f/4.
I barely have used the 100-400mm and when I did, it was to shoot bats at a botanical garden. Handheld. I would like to shoot after ceremony for 15 min with the couple at the beach, me at quite a distance so I can just tell them to walk and I can get natural shots of them instead of posed ones.
Could you please help me decide if I should use that telephoto over the 50mm pseudo macro lens?
Many thanks for your help.
Cheers!
Comment by Grace Huntley — December 5, 2011 @ 8:53 am
I just remembered something – the 100-400mm is only f/5.6 maximum. Is that going to be a big factor with (1) shoot just before golden hours and (2) my desire for that tight, shallow depth of field?
I just don’t know the answer to this as I haven’t had the experience trying that lens as portrait, even if environmental.
Cheers again :)
Comment by Grace Huntley — December 5, 2011 @ 9:01 am
how about 80 200 f2.8 nikon, with D90 can i achieve that look with it?
Comment by Dezant — December 11, 2011 @ 9:23 am