~ my gear ~
cameras | lenses | flashes | lighting accessories | Quantum | camera bags | video light
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Quantum flash system
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I also use the Quantum flashgun system for most of my off-camera lighting. It is a robust system and the Q-flashes are workhorses that stand continuous firing without a hiccup or overheating. Although the Q-flashes can take an AC adapter, it is really a battery-operated flash system, making it very flexible for on-location lighting.
Here are examples:
- using the Q-flash to overpower the sun during a photo session
- an Indian wedding where I relied on the Quantum flashes
- a destination wedding in Las Vegas where I used a Quantum flash
- a model shoot using a Q-flash controlled with wireless TTL
- wedding photography: how do you light large groups? … evenly!
- another example of off-camera lighting
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Quantum Q-flash T5D-R
I still use a few of the older T2 Q-flashes, but they have been superceded by the Q-flash T5D-R which now offers wireless TTL capability. With the output that the Q-flash offers in conjunction with the wireless TTL, the T5D-R is an easy choice for me to use in on-location photography where I need to shoot fast and need more juice than the normal Speedlights offer.
Of course, the Q-flashes need to be triggered by a radio transmitter. Since I more frequently use my off-camera lighting as manual flashes, I trigger them usually with Pocket-Wizards. I also have to use an Umbrella Clamp to connect the Q-flash to a light-stand. (These items are listed on the previous pages.)
However, when I want to use the Q-flash T5D-R as a wirelessly controlled TTL flash,
then I use the following items:
Quantum FW9T FreeXwire Digital Transmitter
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Quantum FW7Q FreeXwire Wireless Digital TTL Receiver
The FW7Q is especially well-designed in how it snugly fits onto the T5D-R and is powered via the Q-flash itself.
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Wireless QTTL Adapter
In order to trigger the Wireless Transmitter, you need this adapter on your camera :
- for Nikon & Fuji : D22wR
– for Canon digital : D23wR
Quantum Turbo 2×2 battery pack
This battery pack is remarkable for how much juice it offers, and how fast it recycles – and also for how fast it recharges. You can run two pieces of equipment off it. And you can halve the recharge time by putting two chargers onto it. This has saved me a number of times where I had to recharge my battery packs during a wedding’s cocktail hour, and have it ready for the reception.
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Quantum Turbo SC battery pack - Slim & Compact
The SC is a new battery pack that Quantum is offering. As the name says, it is slim and compact – yet offers great capacity.
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Quantum Pole Mounting Clamp for battery packs
This is the easiest way to clamp your Quantum battery pack to the light-stand.
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Turbo AC
Even though the Q-flashes are battery driven – which is exactly what makes the Quantum flash system so flexible - there are times when it makes more sense to run the Q-flashes of AC. Then I use these Turbo AC packs.
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Q-flash Remote Flash Head with 8′ Extention Cable
Since I often have my Q-flashes very high up on a light-stand, it becomes an effort to hoist the Q-flash up and down to just change a setting or two. With this Extention Cable, the flash-head remains high up on the light-stand, with the Q-flash body and controls down at eye-level.
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Quantum Softbox 12″x12″
Although I prefer working with larger softboxes, this small Quantum softbox is easy to set up and very portable. And even though it is small, it does immediately offer a larger area than the Q-flash’s usual diffuser disc.
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Norman 19″ softbox
Somewhat larger than the Quantum softbox, and less expensive, is this softbox by Norman. It attaches directly to the Q-flash head..
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Wide-angle Diffuser for Q-flash
Another useful item to disperse the light from a Q-flash even wider.
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Connector cable to use Quantum Turbo batteries with a Speedlight
Although the high output of the Quantum batteries can damage a Speedlight if fired too fast, I find it necessary at times to have a lot more power available to me than the smaller AA battery packs allow. Then I use one of these cables to attach the Speedlight to the Quantum Turbo battery pack :
- For Canon Speedlites – CZ cable
- For Nikon SB-800 Speedlights – CKE cable
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Neil,
What is your take on this shooting in very low light as in a nightclub?
Here’s my set-up. I have a Canon 5D Mark II, a Quantum T5Dr, a D23wR module and Canon L lenses. When I use Auto Fill on the QFlash with and have my camera set on One-shot (vs. Servo), Spot metering (vs. Evaluative, etc.)and Single Focus Point (i.e. for a vertical shot using the top red LED), I find the QFlash trying to “hunt” for the focus and sometimes it will just not focus for that shot. I see the red beam coming front of the QFlash.
Any suggestions on either operator error or malfunction in either the camera, the Q
Flash or Module?
Thanks. I enjoy very much reading your various articles.
Kindest regards,
Marc
Comment by Marc Friedland — August 12, 2009 @ 1:56 pm
Comment by Neil — August 29, 2009 @ 3:18 am
neil,
is it possible to trigger your quantum flash (t5d-r)by a 580 exii mounted by quantum firewire
Comment by alexis — September 12, 2009 @ 7:18 pm
Comment by Neil — September 13, 2009 @ 7:49 pm
Do you find the pw more reliable than the freewire? working on getting used to the freewire but find at times doesn’t fire in sequince fires shot 1,2,3, but 4 doesn’t fire. . thanks for anyinput .
Comment by steve — October 1, 2009 @ 4:43 am
Comment by Neil — October 1, 2009 @ 7:53 pm
Wow, that’s $1700 just to get one TTL flash off-camera with the small battery. Add the AC adapter and larger battery and that’s $2700. I’m sure it’s great, but that’s too rich for my blood! I’m quite happy with my used SB28s and Cybersyncs, so I guess I’ll stick with that!
Comment by brett maxwell — October 18, 2009 @ 6:20 pm
Comment by Neil — October 19, 2009 @ 8:47 am
Could anybody tell me, which guide # the T5D-R has, because I couldn’t figure out anything?
Comment by Mika — October 30, 2009 @ 4:22 pm
Comment by Neil — November 1, 2009 @ 1:33 am
So I am getting conflicting information on how well theQuantum T5d-R works with the Canon 5d MarkII. Some are saying that the infrared is intermittent and unreliable and that I should stick to the radio control. What is your experience since you use both. Thanks
Comment by Kimber — November 12, 2009 @ 5:25 pm
Comment by Neil — November 14, 2009 @ 12:28 am
I have been thinking of getting the Quantum set-up, similar to what you’ve talked about, but haven’t pulled the trigger yet. I have often found myself shooting weddings (and especially wedding receptions, where there’s more movement) in extremely dark conditions. I use a couple 5D Classics and have to set my ISO to 3200, even with one off-camera flash filling in what my on-camera speedlites won’t cover. While Canon claims their high ISO has ‘acceptable’ noise, some of my clients have found it to be unacceptable. My question is, when you use your Quantum set up, does it mean you can shoot at ISO 1000, or even 800?
I realize it’s probably impossible to answer without knowing the exact conditions but I was just wondering if, in general, having the Quantum set-up allowed you to shoot at a lower ISO and save some noise.
Comment by Matt Emrich — February 5, 2010 @ 1:44 pm
Comment by Neil vN — April 2, 2010 @ 8:39 pm
Greetings Neil
I have been sifting through your gear and see that you use Quantum. I am also interested in this product as it is portable. By that I mean battery operated and can be used in remote locations. Is it possible for you to please advise me as to what I need for a wireless set up, including part numbers. EG 1 x T5DR, 1 x T transmitter, 1 x receiver, 1 x stand, cable etc etc.
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One last question, will the land down under (Australia) ever see you presenting workshops and seminars ??? It is such a shame that many Australians cant drive to see you, if you know what I mean. Otherwise, can you recommend anyone here in Australia (Sydney), that is on the same page, wave length as you are.
Regards
Angelo
Comment by Angelo — April 4, 2010 @ 4:47 am
Comment by Neil vN — April 11, 2010 @ 12:58 pm
Excellent blog. This may be a silly question but what light-stand do you recommend for an outdoor/mobile shoot with a Quantum T5d-R setup. Once again thanks for this informative blog.
Comment by Jose Irizarry — June 19, 2010 @ 8:52 pm
Neil, Thank you for the review on the Manfrotto light-stands. This extensive and well thought out review far exceeded my expectations and serves to show your commitment to photography and your readers.
Comment by Jose Irizarry — June 29, 2010 @ 10:14 am
Hi Neil,
Long time reader, first time poster :-)
I would just like to second the notion from a previous poster [#15 in this thread] that you make a trek down under! I don’t think you would have too much trouble selling out a seminar series here – we go crazy for photography seminars!
I have been a fan of your black foamie thing for a while, but I’m just about to delve into off-camera flash. My main reason is to light up the wedding formals when they take place inside. I am hoping to get away with just the one light stand and umbrella, together with an off-camera SB900 (I am shooting with a D700).
- I’m quite confident the above setup will provide enough light for a small group, but do you think it will work for larger groups of up to 20 people? I’m not ready to commit to a Quantum system but am concerned a single SB900 with umbrella won’t quite have the power.
- Over at strobist they recommend an umbrella no larger than 45″ when shooting with a speedlight (“Don’t bother getting one bigger than, say, 45 inches, unless you are using a more powerful strobe into them” See here: http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101-umbrellas.html) Why would they recommend a 45″ over a 60″? I notice you often use a 60″ umbrella. Do you use the 60″ with a speedlight or only with your Quantum system?
- Is the Nano 5001B strong enough to hold a 60″ umbrella? Or is the 1051BAC (or even 1004BAC) a better choice?
- If it is best to go for 2 x umbrellas, I was thinking of 2 x 5001B lightstands, 2 x 45″ umbrellas, and 2 x speedlights. Do you think that would be a good option to light groups of up to 20-odd people?
- My preference would be to stick with the one lightstand and umbrella, especially if you can get shots like that in #8 in this thread. Would you mind explaining the equipment and settings used for that photo?
Looking forward to your feedback!
Nick
Comment by Nick — August 19, 2010 @ 8:39 pm
Comment by Neil vN — September 3, 2010 @ 4:05 pm
Hi Neil,
Great site you have! I stumbled across yours looking up studio lighting for lingerie shoots.
A new field for me…I have my first upcoming shoot, four models over the day, makeup artist & booked a venue-executive suite/french style villa.
Excited, yet nervous I’ll stuff it up! :)
Time is crucial, I have allowed an hour & 15min for each girl( shooting not including makeup)
I have available to me- x2 600wtt studio flashes, x2 large rectangular softboxes, x1 300wtt studio flash, also an umbrella & large 5n1 reflector.
So!, I’m thinking I may not have to use all the gear, perhaps x1 600wtt with a softbox & bounce the light with the reflector also( a friend is helping with reflector).
Could you offer some suggestions, regarding the gear I have for use?
:)
Thanks muchly!
Regards
Comment by Tabitha — September 4, 2010 @ 11:28 am
Comment by Neil vN — September 20, 2010 @ 4:07 pm
I’ve seen some older versions of a quantum flash available on Ebay. I’d like to get one to try it out, but I’m wondering how to get them to work with my camera. I have an Olympus E-30 and an E-620. Thinking about trading the E-620 for the new E-5. Anyway, I like to work wirelessly, and I do have an off brand set of triggers and receivers that operate my hotshoe flashes. If I don’t care about TTL for the moment, will the older versions of the Quantum flash (T2,x2,x2d) work with my wireless system? I’ve never seen a quantum flash in person, so I really don’t know the hookup.
Also, will a quantum battery pack 1 charge any quantum flashes? Which ones?
Thanks for your time. Don’t have alot of bucks to spend at the moment, but I would like to try something stronger than my fl-50r.
Comment by Sandra B — December 31, 2010 @ 6:34 pm
Hi Neil,
This site rocks – a lot of useful info. I picked up the Quantum Q-Flash Trio system for Nikon and I am getting inconsistent results in my wedding reception photos. The photos are either nuked or extremely under-exposed. I am hoping I am going to have that ‘a-ha’ moment with having an incorrect setting, so hopefully you could shed some light on what I’m doing wrong. I use and Nikon SB-800 on-camera (in manual mode) and Quantum FreeXwire plugged into the SB-800. Even though there’s a TTL feature, I prefer shooting w/ manual settings. I tried changing my camera settings back and forth from matrix metering and spot metering, but no dice. I also tried plugging my FreeXwire into the front of the camera vs. the SB-800, but find my way back into the Quantum manual. Any thoughts?
Thanks!
Comment by Clint — January 20, 2011 @ 10:47 pm
Comment by Neil vN — January 21, 2011 @ 4:34 am
Thanks for the quick response Neil. I’ve considered both – so I’m glad there’s others that use or have used the same flash system.
I have both a D700 and a D3s. I typically use the SB-800 on the D700, since I can bump up the ISO on the D3s. Both cameras are using FreeXwire to remote the Q-Flash Trios. My settings on both cameras are generally shot in manual mode f/4 @ 60-125th sec. and 640 ISO. I also usually keep both cameras in matrix metering, but have read in the Quantum manuals that spot tends to work better (with QTTL). Even though I don’t shoot QTTL for receptions, I have still experimented with both forms of metering.
On the D700, I have the FreeXwire plugged directly into the SB-800. The settings on the SB-800 match those on my camera f/4, 640 ISO, and whichever power I give it based on distance.
At this point, I’m considering all of the above (faulty equipment, or technique). Would/should the flash settings on the camera make a difference whether it’s front or rear curtain sync? Shooting in the dark at this point. I appreciate your help.
Comment by Clint — January 21, 2011 @ 2:17 pm
Neil,
Your Qflash blog post is impressive! It is very well documented!
I am looking to replace my studio Alien Bees and Softboxes with a QFlash setup instead.
I already own a T5DR and a Pilot. I love the portability of this system for on-location headshots!
What would you recommend to connect large softboxes to a T5DR? e.g. Speedrings, recommended Softbox Manufacturer, brackets …
Best Regards,
Rollin
Comment by Rollin McCarty — February 25, 2011 @ 12:55 am
Comment by Neil vN — March 6, 2011 @ 6:40 pm
I switched from Metz to Quantum Q-flash in the early 90′s. Quantum has created a fantastic system, albeit with the occasional misfire from the FreeXwire system.
For weddings and outdoor portraits, I shoot exclusively with the Q-flash 5dr on-camera triggering several T3dr strobes. The T3dr is a T2 converted to accept the digital signal sent over by the FreeXwire system.
In-studio, I shoot with White Lightning studio strobes. The Q-flash does not have the power or easy adjustment controls for quick studio work.
With Canon, set the TTL metering to average. You want to disable the function that selects exposure based on focus point. Here’s why: Using focus point, Canon sets exposure based on the segment that was used to lock focus. So if the camera focused on the bride’s white dress, exposure would adjust to make the white dress a neutral gray. Averaging the metering takes into account the entire scene and the groom’s black tux balances the white dress for a perfect exposure.
The only way to bring up a background in a dark reception room is with additional strobes. Light is light and lack of light means dark pictures. Pushing the ISO higher has some merit, but the noise becomes a problem. Set strobes on lightstands in corners of the room to light the backgrounds. Use the channels on the FreeXwire to turn background strobes on and off as needed.
MOUNTING Q-FLASH TO A STAND OR BRACKET: This is a big one. Metz has a great mounting system for its strobes. I simply purchased multiple Metz shoes and the corresponding Stroboframe Metz mounts from BH Photo/Video in New York. Metz shoes attach to the base of the Q-flash with a 1/4-20 screw. I mounted the Stroboframe Metz mount onto my flash bracket. I also mounted the Stroboframe Metz mount onto an umbrella light stand adapter, and now I can quickly mount/dismount the Q-flash. It may seem a little tacky, but a wire hanger fashioned into a hook is wrapped around the upper tube of the lightstand – then the Turbo battery pack is hung off the hook. That allows the lightstand to move up and down while leaving the heavy Turbo battery lower for better stability. This also allows for easy storage of the lightstand without having to worry about an additional clamp.
Comment by Nathan T. — April 10, 2011 @ 8:36 am
There are not many websites around that teach the use of the Quantum products so I am really liking this blog.
I have 2 T3drs and just purchased a FW9T Transmitter and a FW7Q along with a D23WR and I got the products and there is no spot on the T3dr to plug in the FW7Q??? I know when I got the upgrade they said Qttl is possible but now I don’t know what to do with this and make it possible to do Qttl. Any suggestions???
Comment by Jason — April 23, 2011 @ 5:01 pm
Comment by Neil vN — April 24, 2011 @ 5:14 am
Hi Neil,
This is my set-up. My key light is a QFT5dR with a FW7Q controlled by an FW10W hooked up to a D22w-R. This works great .
I recently decided to USE my original T2 for fill either as a wireless slave or an optical slave in manual mode. Is this possible? Any recommendations?
Comment by Jose — May 28, 2011 @ 9:53 am
Neil,
I’ll be shooting an event this weekend that will be both indoors and outdoors, late afternoon thru late evening. I shoot with a D700 and will have an assistant shadowing me with my T5d on a monopod. This is the arrangement I inherited, and since I have not worked with a mobile ass’t. before (I usually use the Qflash on a Custom Bracket), I’m looking for some recommendations. I plan on triggering the Q with PW’s Flex TT5, using the MiniTT1 on my camera’s hotshoe. My first thought would be to set the Q to 1/4 – 1/2 power on
Manual and adjust the light-to-subject distance by moving my ass’t. around as needed. I might also put an SB800 on the camera, in QTTL mode, and dial it down to use as a fill. Does this all make sense? Any suggestions? Thank you!
Comment by Rich — June 22, 2011 @ 7:52 am
I’m on the fence about the Qtrio or the td5. I will in the future get a second Qflash.
I would like at this time not to use freexwire and continue to use my PW PLUS2( which ‘
I have several of).I would like to have the trio on camera but fire the 580 speed lights around the venue .
At this time i have my PW PLUS 2 attached to my 580 on camera.Any thoughts on how to get around this.
Comment by Marc — September 28, 2011 @ 2:07 am
Marc,
I also have a Quantum Trio for a Canon I still have. Have not used it for a long time though.
Now, I presume you want the Trio ON Camera but still want to use PWs to fire OFF camera 580s.
First up, which 580s? 580 EX or 580 EX IIs? The original 580EX does not have a sync socket to fire from a PW, you will need a hot shoe with a PW connection to do that, or, if you have the EX IIs, no problem, they have a socket to plug in PW.
Now, because you have the Trio ON Camera, there goes the Hotshoe connection you would have been able to use for the PW, your next solution to do that would be to have a bracket which screws into the base of the camera [there is a 1/4" thread in base of the Quantum Compact Battery if using that] with a mount on it for the PW to sit on so you can still use the PW which will then plug into your camera’s sync socket which will transmit of course to your Off Camera PW’s firing the 580s.
Paramount Cords have brackets to screw onto base of camera for various options, etc. plus the hotshoe/cord which will plug into PW if using the original 580EX.
http://www.paramountcords.com/pockwiz.asp
http://www.paramountcords.com/Ycord4PW.asp
Trev
Comment by Trev — September 29, 2011 @ 10:45 pm
Hi Neil
I’m very serious in purchasing the Quantum flashes, because it is TTL compatible, unlike the Elinchrom Quadra Ranger.
Any way, I don’t seem to follow what the FW9T transmitter is for ?.
I need a receiver for the flash – FW7Q
I need a transmitter for my Canon camera – D23WR
What’s is the FW9T for, am I missing something ?
Cheers
Angelo
Comment by Angelo — November 16, 2011 @ 3:44 am
Angelo,
You need ALL 3 if you get a Quantum TD5-R Flash and want TTL capabilities.
The FW7Q is the receiver needed for the Quantum T5D-R Flash.
This attaches to the side of a Quantum T5D-R Flash Head to receive the signal for TTL firing.
The FW9T is the transmitter you need if you want to utilise TTL flash.
The D23WR Adapter, is needed as it sits on top of your Canon camera in the hotshoe, connects to the FW9T transmitter which screws to the bottom of the camera, thereby receiving all the TTL data to transmit to the receiver [FW7Q] attached to the Quantum TD5-R Flash.
Now, if you DO NOT need TTL, using a Quantum TD5-R Flash, you don’t need the DW23C adapter, only the Transmitter and the Receiver, OR you can simply use 2 PocketWizards.
But there is also another choice in Quantum Flash Heads, utilising TTL other than the TD5-R; if you purchase the Qflash TRIO QF8C TTL Shoe Mount Flash; this can be used as on camera flash, like an ordinary speedlight OR, if mounted onto a light stand, can be used off camera, the bonus with this flash is that it already has the FW7Q receiver type built into the flash unit, no need to purchase that, however you would need the DW23C Adapter and the FW9T Transmitter.
Quantum TD5-R Flash
Quantum Trio Flash [shoe or off camera flash with in-built receiver]
Quantum FW7Q Receiver needed for the TD5-R flash
Quantum FW9T Transmitter needed to transmit TTL in both cases
Quantum Adapter needed for camera to transmit TTL to the FW9T Transmitter to Receiver on flash
Yep, bit confusing, but worth it.
Hopefully this will help.
Trev.
Comment by Trev — November 16, 2011 @ 8:06 am
Hi Trev
Again, thanks for the info.
I think I follow what you mean with the FW9T, however with a Canon 1d body, things become very very large.
Do you have any pixs showing the FW9T configured to a camera body.
This would ideally give me the ” I get it now ” answer.
Regards
Angelo
Comment by Angelo — November 16, 2011 @ 5:49 pm
Comment by Neil vN — November 16, 2011 @ 5:53 pm
I have a Nikon D3 with a Quantum flash and Quantum Turbo SC, and the pocket wizard plus ll units. What piece do I need to use this flash remote Wireless through the pocket wizard? I appreciate the help.
Comment by David Lara — November 28, 2011 @ 1:07 am
Comment by Neil vN — November 28, 2011 @ 1:15 am
Neil
I have been using the TD5-Rs for a while now. Typically I use one off camera for on location photo shoots in a softbox held by my assistant. When the model is wearing a dress and I do full body shots the fall off is very noticeable. To prevent this I have several options. I do have an additional TD5-R and softbox which I could use with a light stand. Not ideal because of lack of portability. Is there another one light set up that you use that will have less fall off? A profoto set up perhaps?
Thanks
Comment by Brad King — December 3, 2011 @ 9:08 pm
Comment by Neil vN — December 4, 2011 @ 6:47 pm
Thanks Neil –
I didn’t have much fall off until the weather got too cold and nasty to shoot outside. Now that I’m shooting indoors, usually hotel lobbies and the like I’ll have to sort out my strategy. How do you handle lighting, say, at a wedding reception in a hotel. Not the formal shots where you can set up umbrellas on a light stand. I know you like to bounce your speed lights but that obviously has its limitations. If you have an assistant available to do off camera flash do you sometimes use an umbrella set up?
Comment by Brad KIng — December 5, 2011 @ 5:24 pm