TTL flash for the simplicity and speed

Okay, true strobists might recoil in horror, but I often prefer using TTL flash to sweeten an image when shooting on location. I just get to the final image faster than if I had gone the more methodical route of manual flash.

For some situations, manual flash is the only way to go. For example, when your subject is static in relation to your lights and you have to get consistent lighting, image after image, then manual flash makes the most sense. But for times where you want to shoot faster, and shoot on the run, I find that TTL flash is the easiest and most fun option for me.

This image of Aleona was from a recent individual photography workshop in New York. As a starting point in explaining how to balance flash and ambient light, we initially work with an easy scenario where the available light isn’t harsh, but also not all that exciting. Now we can easily finesse it with a bit of flash from a softbox …

The technique is simple in this case – under-expose slightly for the ambient light. A stop or so. Maybe 2/3rd stop. Just a bit. And then let the TTL flash, diffused by a softbox, pick up the difference in exposure. This screen capture from Bridge will show the same image without flash, and then with flash added.

Of course it helps in using sensible camera settings:
1/200 @ f/4 @ 200 ISO
Equipment used:
Canon 5D Mark II; Canon 70-200mm f2.8L IS II (B&H)
Canon 580EX II speedlite, triggered with RadioPopper PX units,
Lastolite Hot Shoe EZYBOX Softbox Kit (24″x24″) (B&H)

With a multi-shooter setup like a workshop, the RadioPopper PX units turned out to be the most reliable in use.

Back to the image at the top. I’ve been playing around with the new Lightroom presets from Totally Rad, called Amped!

I wanted a cross-processed look that would help give the photo a more edgy feel. I like these presets since they give me a good starting point for a specific look, and then I can change it however I feel.

You can use the discount code: MOMSDAY to get $50 off any product more than $99. This discount is valid until May 16, 2012

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18 Comments »

RadioPopper was more reliable than Pocket Wizard TTL? On Nikon too, or just with Canon flashes? Also, with Nikon flashes, I’m unclear as to whether RadioPoppers can work with flashes beyond SB800s. I read that Nikon changed the way the signals were sent, making RadioPoppers unusable(?) on SB900s and beyond. Maybe I misinterpreted things, but that was the impression I got.

Comment by Paul Bohman — May 10, 2012 @ 10:14 pm
Paul .. I haven’t kept up with the news of that, so can’t comment.

I changed to using RadioPoppers for the workshops, even though I use the PocketWizard TT5 units for my own work. With multiple shooters, the PocketWizards were problematic and there would be misfires and weird exposures.

So I changed to the RadioPoppers which work on an entirely different principle … where there is no conflict if more than one photographer uses a specific Slaved flash.

Neil vN

Comment by Neil vN — May 10, 2012 @ 10:22 pm
Neil, have you looked at the Phottix Odins yet? They’re only available for Canon at the moment, with a Nikon version expected soon.

I’ve been using a set of Odins with my Canon camera and Canon flashes, and have been loving the functionality and reliability of them.

Comment by Martin — May 10, 2012 @ 10:39 pm
I shoot with Nikon.

For the workshops, I need a flexible system of radio transmitters that can be configured for either Nikon or Canon …. RadioPoppers.

For the small Canon system I still use, I have moved to the Canon 600EX-RT flash.

So the Phottix don’t really feature on my radar.

Neil vN

Comment by Neil vN — May 10, 2012 @ 10:45 pm
Hi Neil,

How was the exposure metering setup on your 5D? We’re you using spot metering and Flash Exposure Lock to achieve consistent results. I’ve been using the Pixel ETTL radio set, but they don’t support FEL on Canon.

Thank you!

Al

Comment by Al — May 10, 2012 @ 10:53 pm
Al .. my Canon 5D mark II was set to Evaluative Metering, as well my E-TTL settings.

Neil vN

Comment by Neil vN — May 10, 2012 @ 10:54 pm
Neil was your camera set in manual , what part of the subject did you balance your exposure?

Comment by winston mattis — May 11, 2012 @ 3:09 am
Winston .. as mentioned there, I chose my settings. ie, the camera is in manual metering mode.

I don’t really specifically meter .. I just want to under-expose my subject to an extent. So as I mentioned there in the text, I under-expose to an extent. It’s not all that specific. And that’s the beauty of working this way.

The more I under-expose my ambient though, the more contrasty my photo will appear, since the ambient light acts as a fill-light in this scenario.

Neil vN

Comment by Neil vN — May 11, 2012 @ 11:09 am
I can say Radiopopper works with Nikon 910 and Sb 900 without a hitch I use it with my D4 every weekend

Comment by Michael — May 11, 2012 @ 12:07 pm
I too find the PW TT5 “moody” at times… and those times I revert back to my Elinchrom Skyports which are bulletproof. I lose the TTL and have to work in manual however work becomes the keyword here as the TT5′s sometimes don’t…

Comment by Bogdan — May 14, 2012 @ 6:45 am
Hi Neil
When u expose for the ambient, is the model in the frame or do u add her when you’ve reached the required ambient exposure?
Many thanks

Comment by Barry Phillips — May 14, 2012 @ 11:14 am
It doesn’t matter in this case, since it is about the same light falling on the model as the background.

Neil vN

Comment by Neil vN — May 14, 2012 @ 11:26 am
how about when shooting at night or indoors where there is next to no ambient light contributing to the exposure, would u still rely on ttl even though there is a bigger chance of flash exposure error since flash is the only lightsource

Comment by naftoli — May 15, 2012 @ 1:53 pm
Naftoli … it depends partly also on how much of your subject fills the frame. For a tight portrait or half-length portrait, I’d still rely on TTL … but I will also be aware that I might very well have to dial down my FEC.

Neil vN

Comment by Neil vN — May 15, 2012 @ 2:20 pm
Hi Neil,
Have you been in a situation where you have to set your TTL flash to High Speed Flash Sync (HSS) in order to maintain a higher speed and a larger aperture? How does that affect the flash output, especially for an outdoor photoshoot?

Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge with us.

Hoang

Comment by Hoang Nguyen — May 15, 2012 @ 3:52 pm
Hoang … here’s a tutorial on high-speed flash sync.

Neil vN

Comment by Neil vN — May 17, 2012 @ 11:22 pm
Hoang, when u go so much as 1/3 stop shutterspeed over ur sync speed u lose more than half the power capability from ur flash, as opposed to closing down ur aperture 1 full stop u only lose 1 stop of flash power but u also cut out 1 full stop of ambient, if u use a bare flash head u can sometimes pull it off but any modifiers on it will usually cut down too much light to be effective, with HSS, hope this helps

Comment by naftoli — May 18, 2012 @ 12:59 pm
As always – great material. Thanks Neil for sharing.
FEC – nI struggle with this. Is there a starting point for this? Do you start at 0 and how do you determine to dial up or dial down? I look at this shot and suspect you have it dialed down – as it does not look like it needs much flash.

Comment by Rolf — June 8, 2012 @ 7:57 am