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Best PC monitor for processing photographs



  • when i try to purchase the spectraview software download it says its unavailable?
  • TrevTrev Moderator
    edited August 2012
    I just tried to download and no problem, I merely cancelled it upon start as did not need it of course, once I took the screenshot.


    Edit: ahhh, sorry, I see by not available you actually meant the "purchase is not available" not the actual software download. I shall have a look, see what I can come up with.


    Did you use this link: http://www.necdisplay.com/support-and-services/spectra-view-II/Downloads

    So, if on Mac you need the one I circled under Mac or if Windows obviously choose the Windows installer.

    Note though, it says "Serial Number Required from Original Purchase" so you need that when installing I presume.


  • TrevTrev Moderator
    edited August 2012

    I see the problem, you are not in the US I take it, since that purchase link only allows purchases within the US/Canada/Latin America, not Europe nor Australia for that matter, damn.


    Unfortunately you will have to get software from another source, but pricey, sorry.

    You need to look around, here is Australian link: http://www.imagescience.com.au/products/NEC-SpectraView-II-Direct-Hardware-Calibration-System.html

    Just found this on dprreview:

    We (NEC Display Solutions of America not NEC Europe) have a few authorized resellers that ship international. http://www.neutroncanada.com/prod.cfm/700248/NEC/SVIISOFT/SOFTWARE and http://www.nextwarehouse.com/item/?527587_NEC_SVIISOFT . We have them in stock in California. You may also see if you can contact a frieght fowarder to purchase one the US and foward it to where you live. Where do you live? If you live in Canada or Latin America you shouldn't have an issue buying off our site. But if you are Europe I don't know why they don't sell the software seperate or if they do where they sell it.

    Good luck...

    Remember, you don't need the DISC, just the purchase so you can get the Serial Number as it's recommended to install the latest version anyway so you can still download the actual software itself.

    Edit: Maybe Lou, Matrixphoto, can help out here. He got the software obviously from that purchase link you tried, but he's in Canada. I have sent him an email.

    If he agrees, I can give you his email via the 'Inbox' above, only if he agrees of course, and you will need to work things out.


  • NaftoliNaftoli Member
    edited August 2012
    i am in the US though i live in New York
  • TrevTrev Moderator
    edited August 2012
    Had you tried contacting them?

    Their contact details and phone, email them.


    They also have live chat, get onto them as soon as you can.

    You may even be able to purchase with credit card over phone, and then get the Serial Number and download the software.

    Simply not good for anyone trying to purchase their products.

  • TrevTrev Moderator

    I emailed Lou, and he said the following:

    You have to call their customer service and they will process CC then they will send activation code and you can use download file.

    Good luck.
  • image ok i bought the spectra view and callibrated my nec using it with the i1 display pro im not sure if i chose the correct settings my monitor seems a bit green to me and looks a little too contrasty
  • i calibrated it again but it seems the same heres another captureimage
  • TrevTrev Moderator
    edited August 2012

    I can see straight away why it's contrasty, you left it at monior default [remember, I don't personally have Spectraview and cannot tell you precisely how to use it] and it's reading 714:1.

    You need to put in specific targets manually and let it go from there.

    Now here is a link on calibrating with Spectraview.


    Please *read carefully*, everything, as the first part pertains to letting it do it by default, BUT then he goes on to say how to target it specifically and if you compare the end result of his first 'let it go automatically' to his specific targeting, a massive difference.

    From this link: A much better way is to use the monitor's flexible hardware to achieve a lower contrast display, so that while we're editing our image we're making all our decisions on a display that is fundamentally much more like the final print.

    To achieve this, we need to define a new calibration target. We do this by going to Edit -> Calibration Target.

    The actually targeting manually section is almost at the bottom beginning with a line of type in blue: Taking it a step further - defining better calibration targets for print work

    For ethical reasons I won't publish his screenshots here.

    Waste some paper and print it out, but do make sure you read it all thoroughly, line for line, sorry if I sound pushy but it's important you understand what does what.

    Some translations: When setting 'Luminance' that's the monitor's brightness, in the scenario above link I gave he set his to 110 cd/m2 [to suit a specific paper] you can go down further, I set mine around 85, because that is what gives the screen's 'paper brightness look', that is what will resemble the look of photographic paper.

    Yours is waaaay high at 390.8 cd/m2

    I would try the 100/110 range though first, you need to calibrate, then re-calibrate again 2 or even more times on a new monitor or if not done for a while. Each time you adjust it gets closer to your target. I now set my preferences to alert me to 250 hours.

    Adjust, look, edit image, get image printed [at a good lab] and see what the result it like compared to your monitor. It will take a while to adapt, I took a couple of weeks to get used to it around 5-6 years back.

    Only did mine again yesterday.


    Black Point: How deep the shadows are, and that also combined with the white point determines how much contrast. You want contrast of 220:1 or less. I have mine @ 220 to just offset my Luminance of 85 cd/m2, but that's me. I get perfect results personally with those settings.

    White Point: Pretty Obvious. Generally D65 or 6500K to 6000. Depends on your paper, his example was 5800. I set mine to 6500 for normal photographic paper, gloss or matt or metallic.

    Gamma: ALWAYS 2.2 Mac or PC

    Try again with manually setting each thing.

    To get into the manual adjustments you select the 'Edit' button of Menu and select 'Target Calibration', put in values manually.

    Once again, read all and see his screenshots, this guy IS the be all, end all color guru.


  • ok heres the latest calibration screen shot it looks much better now, can u tell from the settings if i did it right? thanx!image
  • TrevTrev Moderator
    Well the 'target' you went for and the 'Calibrated' figures are so close it's not funny. Perfect!

    However, you are talking about 'subjective' results here, those are the aimed for and achieved target values, now there is only one thing left to do.

    That is to get prints done. I think throughout this whole thread I keep saying that, you need to get prints done, 10x8 and above, to see what you are getting and what you see on the screen.

    I would personally send/take the exact same file to at least 2 different labs for starters, since you may see a difference just between the labs let alone the print/s and the screen.

    Since you have re-calibrated, what do the shadows, etc. look like on the screen now.

    I bet with the contrast now also tuned right down, you are wondering if your photos are flatter than before, which they will look to be, but remember the whole idea in the first place is not to have 'pretty' pictures on screen, it's to get your monitor color corrected, and also to have it resemble photographic paper white/contrast so you can now get the best out of it.

    Open up old images you already have got prints for, compare the photo of previously done ones to the previously edited ones on the new monitor, that will also be a good indicator.

    You no doubt will see some blocked relevant shadows or blown whites.

    Print, reprint and reprint again with various edited images.

  • Hi Naftoli
    With the spectra ie software you can do multiple calibrations. So I created multiple calibrations with different settings

    So first I adjusted the cd/m and then I adjusted the contrast ratio , I could flip back and forth to compair how the different calibrations to my print.

    Matrix photo
  • ok i compared previously printed prints from Bay photo to my monitor and it seems my monitors blacks are not deep enough or maybe the screen is a bit too bright, also the screen looks a bit cooler warmer than the prints
  • TrevTrev Moderator
    I would now edit another image [new] on monitor, get a print done and compare.

    Also, the prints you were comparing to previous, if you have the original RAWs, re-edit a couple, print and see what you get.

    Obviously you would need to be happy with the end print quality anyway, no use getting a perfect comparison of screen/print but the prints don't look good to you, too cool or too warm.

  • TrevTrev Moderator
    How about you upload an adjusted image here [drop the res a little bit though] and let Lou and I take a look on our monitors, Lou's NEC and my Eizo.

  • I got a Samsung Series 9 LED monitor. It's a bit pricey, but now that you've mentioned the NEC's and Eizo, I'm about to bump my head as I might have wasted money. Although on the other hand, it looks nice and function's nicely. :)
  • ok heres a few test images, in this first one the skintone looks pretty nuetral on my laptop but when viewed on my monitor looks very orange and a bit green imagenext i edited it on my nec monitor and adjusted the WB down by 550K and pushed the tint up a bit by 4 points toward magenta so it looks correct on my monitorimage so here it is.
    is the second photo look more correct on ur callibrated monitors ? thanx
  • TrevTrev Moderator
    edited September 2012
    I didn't even have to open them in PS to see the differences and what the problems were, just viewing here, since my browser is also color corrected, but I did open in PS anyway to check values.

    The top one is too orange, but there is no 'green' look as you say; you only need to look at his T-shirt to see the color cast also.

    The bottom one, you have taken out too much Temp and added *slightly* too much Tint, it's a bit too much magenta, once again the T-shirt I can see a very slight cast in it, a bit too cool.

    However, it's now a case of being subjective with the second one, which is much closer to natural. I think your monitor is fine and you are v-e-r-y close, his skin is much better, but it's a simple matter of just adjusting until you are happy.

    I would say now you merely get those prints done, you must get prints to see if you are happy.

    Do the file again, take out 250 Temp not 550 [from original that is], put Tint +2 you should be pretty much perfect.

    How about I do up an image on mine from your RAW.

    I left a message in Inbox with my email.

  • ok thanx trev!, RE prints: any online lab suggestions.
  • TrevTrev Moderator
    Sorry, no, I am in Australia.
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