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Fill Flash and Bright Sunlight

Briansep23Briansep23 Member
edited May 2013 in flash & lighting
The senario....

Really bright sunlight, no shade,
F8, 1/800sec ISO 200 D700.
Fill flash needed for sure.

So do I go to 1/250 (max syn speed) and around F16 and loose my depth of field, (the picture was a group full length shot)

or stick with 1/800 and go with hi speed flash, bearing in mind the limitations associated with it....

Comments are welcomed.....

Brian

Comments

  • bobh665bobh665 Member
    I would drop my ISO to 100 and shoot at 1/250@f11 and avoid using HSS. This will give you more flash power. Not sure about shooting a group since the flash would have to be relatively close.
  • bobh665 The base ISO of the D700 is ISO 200, and the OP is already there.

    Briansep23 When you say going to f/16 you would lose DOF - you would actually gain more DOF. So a place to try might be 1/250 at f/16 with flash and see what you get. Other alternatives are to try to avoid the sunlight. Find shade, turn them away from the sun, etc., etc.

    Neil has an article on it:
    http://neilvn.com/tangents/photography-technique-taking-photos-in-harsh-sunlight/
  • JerryJerry Member
    Or try a two or three stop ND filter?
  • JPSchulmanJPSchulman Member
    edited June 2013
    Nikonguy, while the base ISO is 200, the extended range does allow for ISO of 100 in the Lo 1.0 setting. I have dropped to this in the past for the same reason. I would have to agree that dropping the ISO would probably be the best choice in this case. Trying to get a strobe to shoot a group at f16 is asking a lot.
  • JPSchulman I might use the extended ISOs too, but only as a very last resort. Given that you can still shoot within the sync speed of the flash (although at an aperture smaller than where you would probably want to be), I don't view it as last resort yet. As I suggested in my post, I would also try to find shade, turn away from the sun, etc.

    On a related aside - Using Lo 1.0 (ISO 100 equivalent) is actually setting the sensor to the base ISO (200 in this case) and then digitally "pulling" it. The sensor and its programmable gain amplifier (PGA) only have certain capabilities. If you use the LO or HI settings, it is taking the analog-to-digital converter's measurement of the PGA output and further extrapolating off it (eg. dividing the ADC value down for LO settings, or magnifying it further for HI settings). I have read an analogy that I like on the extended ISO settings: They are akin to digital zoom vs. optical zoom in a point & shoot camera. Digital zoom uses the point & shoot's maximum optical zoom and then digitally magnifies it.
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