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Disabling Auto FP - is it possible?

ImagenEstiloImagenEstilo Member
edited July 2013 in flash & lighting
Hi there,

I have been trying to simulate the black banding you get when above max sync speed but not in HSS (Auto FP) but cannot seem to do it. I have the Pocket Wizard Flex TT5 and Mini TT1 and have tried everything to simulate what happens when Auto FP is deactivated but cannot get the black bands. I have set up the Mini TT1 in Basic Trigger Mode but this doesn't work either. All in all, I am stumped. Any ideas how I could simulate it? I am using a D800 and an SB910. I've a few SB910's so could try using one of them as a master mounted on the camera but I would have thought the Pocket Wizards could be turned into simple triggers like the older Plus II's. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Dave

Comments

  • JerryJerry Member
    What is your naximum sync speed set to on the camera menu?

    Eg 1/250, 1/250 ( auto fp), 1/320 (auto fp)...
  • Hi Jerry, I am using the D800 with a max sync speed of 1/250 Auto FP. It does have the 1/320 Auto FP option but I am not using this setting as Pocket Wizard don't recommend it.

    From playing about with the wizards using the PW utility it seems I cannot turn the Mini into a basic trigger which I initially thought would solve my problems. Apparently this only works for cameras other than Nikon/Canon.

    I am now thinking is it possible using an SB910 on camera set to master mode and a slave off camera. I need to play around with this later on this evening. Somehow though I don't think this will work.

    Certainly any suggestions are quite welcome
    Dave

  • TrevTrev Moderator
    edited July 2013
    On the back of the flash, (if you have 1/250 Auto FP enabled in camera on e1 menu - Nikon D3s) hold the Mode button in, and rotate the dial to enable FP or not, it will rotate through the whole range of settings available, manual, strobe, TTL, TTL-BL and TTL-BL-FP, etc.

    Turn it until you see just TTL or TTL-BL and FP won't then be available.

    To permanently turn off (I presume since I have not used it) in the camera menu choose 1/250 there are 2 on mine 1/250 Auto FP and just 1/250.

    Trev.

    found this:

    http://www.nphotomag.com/2012/08/28/set-up-your-nikon-for-high-speed-sync/#null
  • Hi Trev,

    I have 1/250 Auto FP enabled on the camera. When I have the flash on the Flex or in the hotshoe it does not give the option of non FP TTL or Fill TTL. Everything except RPT is FP, so HSS is enabled regardless. So this is when using the flex and in the hotshoe.

    When using the pop up as commander you do not get the option on the slave flash. It is set to REMOTE and you configure how it functions in camera using setting e3. So it seems even using the pop up as a commander, HSS data is sent infrared to the slave flash so it works in Auto FP mode and not as a single flash pulse.

    Can't believe I cannot get this to work. It's like I cannot make a mistake anymore!

    Is there anything else possible? Maybe taping over the TTL contacts and leaving only the central contact in the hot shoe?
  • I'm not following this. It sounds like you want auto FP disabled, but you still have it enabled in the camera. Setting it to 1/250 (and not 1/250 Auto FP) is the way to disable it in your camera. The 1/250 Auto FP and 1/320 Auto FP are the two settings that enable it in your camera - the other settings disable it.
  • Yep that is correct nikon guy but if you set the camera to a non auto FP sync speed the camera itself will limit you to that shutter speed using the pop up, a master slave flash system and both mini tt1 and flex tt5. So it is worthless to me if I want to go above the sync speed.
  • Use a sync cord connected between your camera and flash.
  • Neil vNNeil vN Administrator
    ImagenEstilo .. to see the black band as you go over max flash sync speed, you need a non-dedicated system.

    As NikonGuy says - use a sync cord. (Not a TTL cord though.)

    Or use older radio slaves such as the PocketWizard Plus II units.

    Or use studio strobes.

    But the moment your flash and camera communicates with each other,
    1. the shutter speed will max out at max flash sync speed, or
    2. you will go into HSS mode.

    Neither of those two occurrences will show you that black band.
  • edited July 2013
    Okay, I'm lost. Why would one want to simulate the black banding again? I get that on occasion with my D700 and SB-600 if I go above 250 shutter speed. One forgets on occasion to check camera settings after an event! Ooops!
  • NikonguyNikonguy Member
    edited July 2013
    penndragonn2001 If you are using the SB-600 in the hotshoe, or using a TTL cord, or using Nikon's advanced wireless lighting - you should not under any circumstance get black bands. At most, you might get slight darkening if you use 1/320 Auto FP mode and use a shutter speed of 1/320 - Neil wrote about this some time ago as I recall. So when you have the SB-600 hooked up using these means which allow Nikon-compatible data communication, if you have your camera in auto FP mode you can do any shutter speed you want without black bands, and if you have auto FP disabled, it will limit you to the max sync speed.

    We don't really know why ImagenEstilo wants the black bands but he was trying to make it happen and he was having difficulty. The way to do it is what Neil recommended (eg. PC sync cord wire, dumb radio triggers, studio strobes).
  • Just a quick point for the record -- you CAN configure your mini/flex to be basic triggers on at least a Nikon system -- I have it currently set as my C2 configuration. Make sure both the mini and flex are set to basic triggering on the same standard channel.
  • Neil vNNeil vN Administrator
    For workshops, I want to be able to show the black band across the frame when using too fast a shutter speed. This is for demo to explain what happens with the shutter and flash.

    Perhaps ImagenEstilo has a similar need to show this happening.
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