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As an adjunct to the Tangents blog, the intention with this forum is to answer any questions, and allow a diverse discussion of topics related photography. With that, see it as an open invitation to just climb in and start threads and to respond to any threads.
Relevant tones
ilovelight
Member
Hi Everyone,
I'm reading the "on-camera flash" book and came across these sentences:
"The right-hand edge of the histogram will show us where the brightest relevant tone should be. The word relevant needs to be stressed."
"The Nikon histogram looks slightly different. In my experience, I get an optimally exposed image if I place the edge of the histogram (for the brightest relevant tone) just shy of the corner of the histogram display. (There’s that term “relevant” again. It’s an important distinction.)"
Which "relevant tones" are we referring to?
Thanks for your help!
I'm reading the "on-camera flash" book and came across these sentences:
"The right-hand edge of the histogram will show us where the brightest relevant tone should be. The word relevant needs to be stressed."
"The Nikon histogram looks slightly different. In my experience, I get an optimally exposed image if I place the edge of the histogram (for the brightest relevant tone) just shy of the corner of the histogram display. (There’s that term “relevant” again. It’s an important distinction.)"
Which "relevant tones" are we referring to?
Thanks for your help!
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Comments
a white picket fence in the background ... not relevant for how we figure out our exposure for our subject. White clouds aren't relevant either, since it's not part of our (portrait) subject.
- handheld lightmeter?
- camera's meter on spot-metering?
- histogram?
Then in post you maybe would add midtone or black to get more contrast, but as long as you have exposed correctly for the white part that is important it is fine.
Now, of course if you wanting to use flash, you set the ambient light a tad under correct exposure, then apply flash, but once again as long as the whites in the important areas show up correctly with the use of flash, then the rest of the image [only where the flash falls, it won't affect any dark backgrounds back from subjects] will follow suit.
If there are no whites, and all midtones like grass, colors, etc. you could just take a general meter reading and zero it out on the camera, but that's only if not wanting to use flash as your dominant light source, you can still zero it all out and use flash, but the flash should then be set to say 1.5 to 2+ stops under so it's just a blip of fill flash to help with eye sockets, etc.