{"id":13993,"date":"2013-04-11T23:44:17","date_gmt":"2013-04-12T03:44:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/neilvn.com\/tangents\/?p=13993"},"modified":"2020-06-13T18:56:01","modified_gmt":"2020-06-13T22:56:01","slug":"metering-for-ttl-flash-ambient-light","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/neilvn.com\/tangents\/metering-for-ttl-flash-ambient-light\/","title":{"rendered":"How do you meter for TTL flash & ambient light?"},"content":{"rendered":"

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How do you meter for TTL flash & ambient light?<\/h1>\n

In taking these kinds of candid images, I set the camera so that there is enough light recorded on the test shots without flash. No real metering technique, but I judge by the LCD to see that there will be enough detail in the background. It is kinda the\u00a0dragging the shutter<\/a>\u00a0technique, but not as specific perhaps. I just want some ambient light to register.<\/p>\n

Then I simply use TTL flash to expose correctly for any subject which is turned away from the main source of ambient light – the window. Without flash, these kids’ features would be in deep shade relative to the rest. But the TTL flash lifts the exposure to where I want it to be … with everything well exposed.<\/p>\n

It really is that simple, and this technique allows me to shoot fast, and get great candid shots by concentrating on the photography and not the specific settings all the time.<\/p>\n

I used the Black Foamie Thing<\/a> ™ to flag my flash and not hit people behind me in the face with a strong burst of flash. The back-ground is quite well-lit, because in bouncing flash behind me, the background inevitably opens up a bit. Again, this is\u00a0the inverse square law<\/a>\u00a0helping us out with bounce flash photography.<\/p>\n

camera settings: 1\/125th @ f4 @ 1250 ISO \u00a0(FEC not recorded.)<\/p>\n

So back to the question, how did I meter for the ambient light here? I didn’t. And I certainly did not<\/strong> meter for the white tones via the histogram method<\/a>. The reason is – I don’t want to expose correctly for my ambient light. The light levels are too low – ie, I won’t get enough depth-of-field, at a good shutter speed, at a useful ISO … with good quality light on my subject. So I purposely want to under-expose for the ambient light. And then I add TTL flash. The TTL flash here is a dominant light source, and not mere fill-flash. Hence, carefully metering for the ambient light here isn’t all that useful.<\/p>\n

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All of this discussion was triggered by a question posted elsewhere …<\/p>\n

Hi Neil. I love your books and have I think learned a lot. I finished Off-Camera Flash and am now on On-Camera Flash. There was one technique you emphasize that has me confused in terms of interpretation.<\/p>\n

If you indicate that when you must use TTL flash, one should meter for ambient light first and then use the TTL flash. Are you implying that I should set the camera on M and then meter for the ambient light but then leave the flas on TTL ?<\/p>\n

This was my assumption but I just wanted to know if that assumption is correct. I would appreciate clarification as this seems to be an important part of your TTL technique.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

So there you have it. I don’t meter. But my camera settings aren’t entirely random, yet there is a lot of flexibility.<\/p>\n

I need to juggle these three things:
\n– enough depth-of-field<\/a>
\n– a shutter speed<\/a> where I don’t risk too much subject movement
\n– an ISO setting<\/a> that I am comfortable with, for the size that the images will be used.<\/p>\n

With all that in mind, *I* choose my settings – and then the bounce flash gives me great quality light. I rely on TTL flash to get me correct exposure. And if I decide I can do better, I ride my flash exposure compensation<\/a>.<\/p>\n

It is all within my control now, and I can concentrate on the moments, and on my composition. The most important aspects of photography.<\/p>\n

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