{"id":1841,"date":"2009-12-02T22:10:12","date_gmt":"2009-12-03T02:10:12","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.planetneil.com\/tangents\/?p=1841"},"modified":"2020-06-13T19:38:49","modified_gmt":"2020-06-13T23:38:49","slug":"lighting-wedding-formals-3","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/neilvn.com\/tangents\/lighting-wedding-formals-3\/","title":{"rendered":"lighting the wedding formals (part 3)"},"content":{"rendered":"

lighting the wedding formals<\/h1>\n

In the\u00a0first of\u00a0two postings on how I light the wedding formals<\/a>, I showed how I use a single flashgun when photographing smaller formal groups indoors.\u00a0 The equipment is relatively simple then – a single flashgun (Q-flash)\u00a0and a large 60″ umbrella to give me good lighting.\u00a0 The flashgun that I use for these, is a Q-flash.\u00a0 Specifically the older T2 model since I only use them in manual mode here.\u00a0 When I have a larger group I use two of these flashguns – each with an umbrella.\u00a0 But more about that in a follow-up article coming up soon.<\/p>\n

What I wanted to illustrate here is\u00a0one of the\u00a0benefits of doing the formal portraits (indoors) with manual off-camera\u00a0flash – consistency.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Since the flash gives off a specific amount of light every time – it is manual flash after all and not TTL flash – and since the flash is on a\u00a0stand, and therefore at a constant distance to your subject .. this means that your flash exposure will be consistent.\u00a0 It will be consistent regardless of YOUR position.\u00a0 You can move around.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

This\u00a0off-beat photograph of the bride and groom kissing, was a grab shot.\u00a0 While I was on my knees in front of the bride, adjusting her dress, the groom leaned in for a kiss.\u00a0 I grabbed my camera and as I lifted it to my eye, the groom playfully tried to block my shot.\u00a0 And there it is.<\/p>\n

Since my lights were set-up and exposure calculated for the manual off-camera\u00a0flash, the exposure remained the same .. regardless of my being right up close to them.\u00a0 My distance to the subject had no influence here.<\/p>\n

Let’s briefly go back to the basics then …<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

Manual flash exposure<\/a> is controlled by 4 things<\/strong> ..
\n– aperture,
\n– ISO,
\n– the flash’s distance to your subject,
\n– power of your flash, which includes how you diffuse your flash.<\/p>\n

Since those four things will (or should) remain constant when you’ve calculated correct exposure, your flash exposure will remain consistent.\u00a0 And if your manual flash is used off-camera, then your own position has no effect while you remain in the same direction as you metered your lights.\u00a0\u00a0 There is a small caveat though.\u00a0 \u00a0The moment you move off to the side, and continue to do so at a greater\u00a0angle to the lights .. then your position does have a slight\u00a0effect on the exposure.\u00a0 But as mentioned .. while you remain within the same general arc that you metered your lights for, your flash exposure will remain constant.<\/p>\n

Back to the topic ..<\/p>\n

During the formal photo session, I will often step closer to some of the kids to do a tight portrait of them within the group.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Sometimes this is\u00a0to slightly humorous effect if the group is still waiting for stragglers to join them.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

And again, I know my exposure will be correct because I have already metered for it, and my own position has no effect on the exposure while\u00a0I use off-camera manual\u00a0flash.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

related articles<\/h2>\n