Nikon D5 high ISO noise performance
With the increasing complexity of digital cameras these days, such as the Nikon D5 (B&H / Amazon), it has also become increasingly more difficult to give a comprehensive overview unless it is via a website dedicated to just camera reviews. So I will be rolling out mini-reviews along the way, as I use this and other cameras. The Nikon D5 ups many features and spec from the previous generations – Nikon D4 / D4s – by offering 4K video, higher resolution, improved AF and better high-ISO noise performance. I will do a more specific comparative review in time, but I’m so impressed with the camera so far, that I wanted to share a few images to show the high-ISO noise performance. It’s a definite cut above the already impressive D4.
This informal portrait of my friend, Jessica, was taken during a lull at the wedding we photographed. I wanted to impress her with my new camera, and shot a few handheld portraits at crazy settings: 1/40 (handheld) at f/2.8 @ 20,000 ISO. Yes, 20k ISO.
Here is what the 100% crops look like:
My settings in ACR (which would be the same if you were running Lightroom):
I ran the noise reduction at a higher level than I normally would, set to level 40, instead of the 25 default. Still, the detail is impressive in the final image. What also helped the sharpness at the slow shutter speed, was the Vibration Reduction of the Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8E VR (affiliate). This combination of a stabilized lens and a truly impressive camera, is going to change things for me.
Here is another example from that wedding:
- 1/80 @ f/5.6 @ 6,400 ISO .. with bounce flash
- Nikon D5 (B&H / Amazon)
- Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8E VR (B&H / Amazon)
- Nikon SB-5000 flash (B&H / Amazon)
Here is the 100% crop of a darker area – the groom’s tux – to show the high-ISO noise for 6,400 ISO. I’m impressed.
Summary
So far the Nikon D5 has truly impressed me – the shutter is quieter than the D4. The auto-focus is incredible – I sometimes have to double-check if the camera did focus, it is that fast. The high-ISO noise, as you can see here, is also an improvement on already superb spec of previous generations. As I mentioned above, I feel that the Nikon D5 is the kind of camera that will change my photography over time. It’s that good.
Well, that 24-70mm VR is going on the shopping list. The D5? I wish…
The high ISO is great but the improved auto-focus sounds like a must-have.
Very interesting Neil, thanks for your valued comments. I’m still of the opinion that the D4 is an incredible camera and happy to continue using this. For me there’s not enough difference to justify upgrading, as I think the money can be more wisely invested in my business.
I’ve been juggling ideas in my mind as to how I can afford another of these beasts. If only, if only, owning one of them brought in more than $6500 income that you can’t do with a previous camera.
Well , I’ve been sitting on the fence. I would really like to get a D5, however, I shoot mostly live music, in local venues, the light is usually bad. My D4s does a good job, but I still miss too many shots and so I over shoot to compensate. I heard lots of great things about the D4(s) before I bought it and It’s starting to feel like Dejavu with the D5. I would buy one today if I really felt that the AF was a big improvement over what I already have.
Patrick, I don’t have enough experience of the D4s to make a definitive judgement on how the D4s compares to the D5 when it comes to AF accuracy, speed and consistency.
Currently I have two D4 bodies, and the D5 is markedly better when it comes to that.
The best would be to get hold of a D5 and play with it and see if it matches your expectations and needs.
Thanks Neil, I will definitely try before I buy. Appreciate the quick response and your opinion. I might yet wait for the D5s as I have the D3s and the D4s. Also looking to get the Fuji X-T2 and look forward to your review. Not a gear junkie, just like to get the right tools for the job.
Hi Neil, I am browsing the net to find proper setting of D5 which would provide “acceptable” noise at high ISO. Well, on the way, I have read many negative opinions about D5, until I have opened your, encouraging review. In my case anything above ISO 2000 (RAW) I have to fix in PS. Would you mind to share your professional knowledge with “enthusiast” on how to handle noise on D5. Very obliged Tom
Tom,
The D5 only gets into it’s stride at around 1250 ISO, after which it is the best performing sensor available, beating Sony A7r II and A7s II (I have both).
http://photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR.htm
Compare D5 to Ideal FX, which shows how closely the D5 is to reference FX performance.
I use Auto ISO with my D5 and let it float between 100 and 102400 (I never use the hi fake values).
NR is turned off in camera and I either use LR, Topaz DeNoise 6 or Nik Define 2.
LR when I’m lazy and just want to clean up the shot for a look.
DeNoise or Define, depending upon the level of control I want (Define gives the most granular control).
HTH
Tom …. I mostly just use the default in Lightroom or in ACR – level 25 – but as mentioned in the text, for these examples I ran it as high has 40.
Not much more that I do with the high-ISO noise.
What you see will depend on how large you print or show your images.
That said, why are you handling the high ISO noise in Photoshop?
IMHO, it should be mostly handled in an earlier stage than Photoshop.
Neil I am humbled by your quick response. I would add to our discussion following information
RAW image from camera goes to Adobe Br which opens Adobe RAW where I do most adjustments………the rest is in Ps. I do not use Lightroom, perhaps I should.
However, my biggest concern is noise in RAW file. D5 has option to make ISO-NR and exposure-NR……would you recommend using Nikon processor to deal with noise or rather let Adobe to do it ?
I do not make bigger prints than 8×12 and most of them are sent to Blurb for printing family books. D5 I got because my grand kids are very much sport oriented and I need “speed” and very frequently at low light conditions. My primary lenses are 24-70 f2.8 and 70-200 f2.8. Thanks again for your advice, Tom.
If you’re using ACR (via Photoshop) you don’t have any advantage in going with LightRoom – it is the same engine as ACR to decode the raw file.
The few times I did try the Nikon software, I was frustrated by how slow the software was. Not usable for any kind of volume work.
Hi Neil,
Love your blog!
I’m new to using Flash and have purchased a Nikon SB-5000 to use with my D5/D4s combo.
I have a question regarding Auto ISO with a camera like the D5 and whether you use this with bounce flash?
I think I’ve figured out why my flash output suddenly darkened during my shoot.
I was shooting dancers rehearsing for a local street event in a dance studio.
The location was awful with floor to ceiling mirrors, but it was working well bouncing flash using your BFT.
Everything was working well and the D5 was set to float using Auto ISO shooting in manual mode, that is until they started faster action and I increased the shutter speed to 1/500s from 1/250s.
Output seemed to darken and I had no idea what was going on?
Then when I got home I started reading your blog again.
Could this be the shutter speed being increased over the 1/250s synch speed limit?
Second question: Given the amazing low light ability of the D5, would you recommend I continue to shoot in Auto ISO or would you never recommend using it when bouncing flash?
If not, do you just set the shutter speed at 1/250s and the aperture to conrol the depth of field and then guesstimate the ISO value to use and set it manually?
Thanks and appreciate your help…
Hi there
I don’t use auto ISO at all. There might be some use for it in some fields of photography, but not with the work that I do which is more portrait / wedding based.
And as you have surmised, your flash output dipped because you went over max flash sync speed.
– Tutorial: high speed flash sync
– When to use high speed flash sync
IN bright light, I will usually default to maximum flash sync speed, because that is where my flash has the best chance of matching the bright sunshine. In lower light levels, there is no need to be at max flash sync speed – then you are at an appropriate shutter speed, depending on light levels, and subject movement.
How are you finding dynamic range and highlight retention compared to previous Nikon cameras? Seems to me there’s a trade off, you lose some sub-800 ISO but gain some over 1600? Or are there at least some highlight retention benefits across the board? Are the tests from the likes of DXO indicating reduced low ISO dynamic range accurate, or overstated, or just wrong in practice?
On an economic standpoint I can see it being a bit awkward….some of the areas where a camera like this should just be an economic no-brainer, like commercial or fashion, might not show a whole lot of gain, but other areas where a D5 will be a guarantee of a hugely increased rate of keepers compared even to a D4 (sports, especially high-school sports, photojournalism) are so economically precarious right now and pay so poorly that it’s a moot point for all but the top people in the field; readers of small to medium newspapers are just going to have to go on getting less than they could.
Hi there Daniel .. I’ve seen the reports that the D5 has reduced dynamic range at lower ISO settings. Honestly, this isn’t something I would’ve noticed – probably because I always use additional lighting, or other ways to control the contrast.
So this hasn’t affected my shooting workflow, or my post-processing workflow at all.
Hi Neil,
I own a D810 which has been damaged due to a nasty drop. Thankfully, insurance stepped in and I’m in the market to replace it.
Here is my pickle: I loved my D810. I shot everything I could with it. Weddings, kids, wildlife, even took it to pro baseball games. I love to shoot musical performances/concerts. The insurance money I’m getting will be enough to replace camera and the lens that was damaged with it, a Nikon 70-200 2.8g.
So, I’m presented with an opportunity to replace like for like or upgrade to something like the D5, or perhaps wait for a possible D810 replacement.
My question for you: Have you any experience with the D810? If so, is there an appreciable difference in the sort of photos I could capture at higher ISO/low light? All other specs speak for themselves, but it seems sensor performance is reaching a level of parity (to a certain degree).
I’d be giving up ownership of a 70-200, but I have other lenses and could always rent one (that’s what I did in the first place, until I earned enough to purchase one), so I don’t mind that if the ISO increase is noticeable.
As for low ISO, I’d like to hint a flagship camera will produce awesome images if you’ve got lighting and composition under control, so I’m willing to sacrifice a little the gains at the other end are there.
Thank you for your time,
Donny
Hi there Donny
I have two D810 bodies as well for commercial work. I love this camera – the image quality is superb!
The high-ISO noise of the D810 starts to become intrusive (to my eye) at 3200 ISO … but you have to keep in mind the file has twice the amount of real estate than the D4 / D4s bodies. The D5 has a bit more resolution than the D4 bodies.
With that, have a look at this review where you can download D4 / D4s and D810 RAW files to compare for yourself.
By the time you down-size the D810 file to 16 megapixels or 20 megapixels, things start to equalize a bit.
As much as I love my D5, it is an expensive camera, and you have to figure out whether it will give you that extra $4000 income (or enjoyment) over a D810. So this is a difficult equation to solve.
Is my D5 the exception to the others? I photograph arena sports and my D5 produces deplorable images at an ISO of 20000. I would be thrilled if the image quality was as good as what you show. I often photograph in enclosed arenas with inadequate lighting, strobes are not permitted.
I have many photos made at an ISO of 20000 in which the person’s face is rendered as blob of pixels with no demarcation of facial features. Also, the color of the shirt collar will be blurred onto the face. The focus point was on the face when these photos were made.
An ISO of 12800 produces better images in that facial features are discernible, however, the overall image quality is not acceptable. Outside in daylight my D5 is better, however, the portion of the face that is in shadow will be pixelated.
Even with the focus point on the subject, the subject is often not in focus. I fine tune the focus for each lens. One image will be sharp and the next in the sequence will be soft.
Before you buy the D5, rent one.