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Tangents

evening photo session in New York – Sarah & Mark

December 3, 2012

New York photo session with Sarah & Mark – off-camera flash

Sarah and Mark were in New York, dressed to the nines, to attend the Rockettes show. And while they were dressed up, and with some time before the show they were attending, we did a photo session. You might remember them as the couple in my book, off-camera flash. I’ve also photographed Sarah on other occasions. I thought that the New York skyline at dusk would work as a perfect backdrop to how stylish they were dressed. (I did ask Mark if he felt like James Bond, all suited up like that in his tux.)

The lighting setup was straight-forward. The main light was a speedlight in the Lastolite Hot Shoe EZYBOX Softbox Kit (24″x24″) (B&H). The rim-light was another speedlight behind them, with the plastic diffuser cup on. Here is the pull-back shot …

You can see from this photo that I angled the softbox upward, to force light fall-off to the bottom of the frame. I didn’t want to light up the ground. I also didn’t really need their legs and lower body to be lit up as well as their face. So this way I was able to accentuate their upper body and face.

The flashguns / speedlites were controlled manually. TTL flash would just have been hard work here. TTL flash would’ve meant constant controlling the flash exposure compensation for each shot because of the large areas of dark tones. So manual flash it had to be.

I didn’t meter for the flash. From experience, I have an idea of what the speedlight’s output is when used in that specific softbox. The rim-light was also adjusted by eye. I know, I know … it goes against solid principles to do it this way, but the images work.

I controlled the speedlights’ output from my camera, via the  PocketWizard AC3 Zone Controller (B&H) on top of the  PocketWizard FlexTT5 transceiver (B&H).

Each speedlight had its own  PocketWizard FlexTT5 transceiver (B&H) controlled manually from the AC3 on my camera.

As we were shooting, the ambient light was fast fading. Therefore you’ll see the background gradually going darker. I adjusted my shutter speed a little bit. Then at some point, I opened up my settings a lot more to allow more of the city lights in.

None of the flashes were gelled.

The image at the top, was shot last, with the Manhattan Bridge as the background.
This is the only image shown here which was shot with the longer zoom, Nikon 70-200mm f2.8 AF-S VR II  (B&H). All other images were shot with the Nikon 24-70mm f2.8G ED AF-S  (B&H)
camera settings for the image at the top:
1/15 @ f/4 @ 800 ISO; flash not gelled.

equipment used during this photo session:
Nikon D4  (B&H);  Nikon 24-70mm f2.8G ED AF-S  (B&H)
(2x) Nikon SB-910 Speedlight (B&H);  Nikon SD-9 battery pack (B&H)
(3x) PocketWizard FlexTT5 transceiver (B&H)
PocketWizard AC3 Zone Controller (B&H)
Lastolite Hot Shoe EZYBOX Kit (24″x24″) (B&H)
Manfrotto 1051BAC (B&H) light-stand for rim-light flash;
the taller Manfrotto 1004BAC (B&H) for the softbox.

camera settings: 1/60 @ f/5.6 @ 800 ISO;  flash not gelled

camera settings: 1/50 @ f/5.6 @ 800 ISO

camera settings: 1/30 @ f/5.6 @ 800 ISO

camera settings: 1/50 @ f/5.6 @ 800 ISO

camera settings: 1/50 @ f/5.6 @ 800 ISO

camera settings: 1/13 @ f/4 @ 800 ISO;  flash not gelled.

camera settings: 1/13 @ f/4 @ 800 ISO

camera settings: 1/13 @ f/4 @ 800 ISO

One of the very first images we shot as a test, is this one. I do like the way the pebbled shoreline of the East River showed up with the flash behind them. I worked the image a bit though.

The comparison below shows the straight JPG-from-RAW file, on the left. The right-hand photo is the image at the top as I edited it. The edited image consists of a combination of 3 versions of the photo, that I very quickly combined in Photoshop using the gradient tool.

The bottom section of the image is from a version where I used a Vintage preset I created in RadLab. The middle section with their face, is the straight-forward rendition. The sky at the top was made more dramatic with Topaz Adjust. I didn’t go the route of carefully masking these images to combine them. I simply used a simple gradient mask.

 

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