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exposure metering techniques
exposure compensation | metering modes | variable aperture lenses
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exposure metering using your camera’s built-in meter
The essence of achieving good and consistent exposure technique, is to decide what is the actual subject in the scene that you’re photographing .. and then expose for that. In the same way that you decide what the actual subject is that you want to focus your camera on, you also need to decide what the subject (or area of the subject) is that you want to expose correctly for.
If you look at this first photograph, there are no large dark areas or shaded areas, and neither are there sections which are brightly lit compared to the rest. This image has tones and colours which are all kind of ‘average’.

There aren’t any large areas which are overly bright or overly dark. The few scattered dark sections are more or less balanced with the lighter sections. There shouldn’t be any camera or any photographer who’d have a problem getting the exposure right for a scene like this.
But what about scenes which aren’t so evenly lit ??
Now here comes the crucial part .. take a look at this next photograph.
What is the subject matter here ?? The two men standing in the band of sunlight of course. Not the dark areas. The shadows merely form a natural border around the two men, and should not be allowed to affect my meter reading at all.

I need to expose correctly for my chosen subject – the two men – so that they appear neither too dark nor too light in this particular setting. By basing my exposure on the two men in the sunlight, the shadow areas will become dark shapes.
My actual method of exposing for the men, was to put my camera into manual metering mode and then I moved my camera to point to another subject which was completely sunlit, and I set my exposure reading accordingly. In this specific instance, I used normal centre-weighted metering, because it was the only metering option on that camera.
If the camera I used had a spot-meter option, I could have used that to take a selective meter reading off the sunlit area. I could’ve locked the meter reading either by either using manual mode or with the meter-lock in one of the auto modes. My preference is to always shoot in manual mode where I can, since this gives me the greatest chance of consistency between images.
In this case I specifically did not use purely automatic metering. The large areas in shadow would’ve fooled any camera’s meter. Center-weighted metering meters for nearly the entire scene. It has no way to distinguish what is my actual subject. With the shadow areas dominating in that photo, the camera meter would have given the entire scene an average exposure reading, which would have been too much for the actual subject – the 2 men – and they would have been grossly over-exposed. (Even matrix metering can only ‘guess’ at what is the subject and try and expose correctly based on an algorithm.)
Therefore I had to control my exposure – in this case by locking a relevant meter reading in manual mode. By doing this, I’m now able to shoot a series of photos, all correctly exposed, and all consistent.
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working with digital
These pages were originally written with the idea of exposing for slide film (transparency film).
Slide film has very little latitude for error, unlike negative film (colour or B&W). If you, as a digital photographer approach exposure metering with the same mind-set as a slide-film user, you’re much less likely to run into the same frustrations that negative-film users usually have when they first switch over to digital.
Even though there are further methods available to the digital photographer, such as combining different exposures as layers into a single image, and thereby side-stepping a lot of problems regarding exposure metering, the method explained here remains an essential base.
Digital photographers have an amazing advantage with the immediacy of the histogram and blinking highlights display. These are two essential tools that every serious photographer need to understand how to use.
Also, every serious photographer will ultimately have to become acquainted with the Zone System, or elements thereof. The method I describe here is a distillation of that. I definitely recommend that anyone interested in understanding exposure metering, delve further into the Zone System.
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Please note: for simplicity of explanation on this page, I didn’t take into account the tonality or reflectivityof the various areas, but just how the light falls in the scene and subject. (Taking the reflectivity of your subject matter and the scene into account, is just an extension of the same approach and thought process, but I didn’t want to make the explanation overly complex.)
There are specific reasons why I did not simply use auto-metering and dial in exposure compensation, but chose to use manual mode.
Something else to take cognizance of is that metering with variable-aperture zooms can be problematic.
I explain more on a following page on when to choose between center-weighted, evaluative (matrix) and spot-meter metering modes .
Averaging various spotmeter readings, is another alternative method mentioned sometimes – where you would spot-meter the dark areas and the high-light areas and then set your exposure as a happy medium. In my opinion, this might work some of the time, but most times, you will find that your actual subject will still be under or over-exposed – simply because the exposure value calculated this way is different from the settings needed to expose correctly for the actual subject.
Even if you want ensure correct exposure in tricky situations by bracketing your exposures, using a consistent method like this would ensure that you bracket with some specific idea in mind, and will most likely be very close to a correct exposure anyway.
By getting used to a specific way of measuring and evaluating exposures, you are eliminating random guesswork and building up towards a consistent and repeatable method of metering accurately and correctly.
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more articles on exposure metering techniques
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“If the camera I used had a spot-meter option, I could have used that to take a selective meter reading off the sunlit area. I could’ve locked the meter reading either by either using manual mode…”
and, lower down:
“Therefore I had to control my exposure – in this case by locking a relevant meter reading in manual mode.”
Please explain how and where to lock the meter reading in manual mode for spot metering. Nikon D200
Thanks a stack
Comment by Lydia — October 5, 2009 @ 5:19 pm
Comment by Neil — October 5, 2009 @ 10:25 pm
Lydia,
On most Nikon cameras, exposure is locked using the AE-L button. I’m not familiar with the D200, so I can’t say where exactly this might be located. Sometimes (usually?) it’s combined with the focus lock button (AF-L), and a menu selection can enable one, the other, or both to be locked when the button is pushed.
However, as Neil says, this is moot when in manual mode. FULL manual mode, that is. There are photographers who are using manual mode to lock shutter speed and aperture, and using AUTO-ISO to match sensor speed to the exposure, rather than the other way around, so even that assumption has to be somewhat tempered.
Warmest regards,
- Arved
Comment by Arved — October 13, 2009 @ 11:26 am
[...] exposure metering [...]
Pingback by photography questions and answers (004) « Neil vN – tangents — October 3, 2010 @ 6:43 pm
[...] exposure metering [...]
Pingback by exposure metering for the bride & the bride’s dress « Neil vN – tangents — October 21, 2010 @ 12:06 am
Neil,
Great book and blog. My wife (photographer) and I (second shooter) and I agree to disagree on an issue. If you spot meter on a brides dress (change exposure compensation to adjust the 18% grey) and you have consistant lighting from abmient and strobes, same location, same compensation but different individuals around her, such as formals. Dark tuxes from groomsmen then light dresses from bridesmaids. Would you need to change the exposure settings for different individuals around the bride to make up for the tones that are not included in the spot metering, or would you expect to have a correct exposure every shot since we are only considering the brides dress from spot metering. Asthetics vs technical?
Thanks in advance,
Steve
Comment by Steve Vequist — October 22, 2010 @ 8:45 am
Comment by Neil vN — October 22, 2010 @ 5:45 pm
[...] exposure metering [...]
Pingback by photography questions and answers (005) « Neil vN – tangents — October 31, 2010 @ 7:39 pm
[...] exposure metering [...]
Pingback by flash photography essentials « Neil vN – tangents — November 4, 2010 @ 6:39 pm
Hi Neil,
I also had a question similiar to Lydia’s , as I wasn’t quite clarified on it.
“Therefore I had to control my exposure – in this case by locking a relevant meter reading in manual mode.”
For instance, I have a D700 Nikon. How would I go about taking a “relevant meter reading in manual mode” ? Would I switch to AV mode spot metering, press shutter halfway down on my targeted area and see what it’s recommending?
Or do you simply mean to take a few exposures in manual shooting mode and preview the histograms based on being zoomed up in the area you want to properly expose for (similiar to your article on how to properly expose for a brides dress?)
any help would be greatly appreciated as I was not quite sure how to do this manual metering aside from the above.
Thanks a ton for all you do for us!
aj
Comment by aj — April 18, 2011 @ 12:21 am
Comment by Neil vN — April 18, 2011 @ 12:26 am
Thanks Neil for the great informative site. I have this situation that is confusing me. While keeping my meter unchanged; i.e f/5.6 1/80 s, I always get underexposed subjects(portraits) with matrix and center. However spot metering gives me the best results for the same setting and subject. Light is always evenly distributed when using spot metering.I use Nikon D5100 with SB700.
One last point (off topic?) the manual mode and aperture priority on the d5100 give different readings for the same subject(I use tripod). For example, in A the camera says that the right exposure is 1/200 at f/8 however when I dial these readings in M, the viewfinder meter reading tells me I am overexposed. I would be grateful for your input.
Comment by biho — December 22, 2011 @ 3:21 pm
Comment by Neil vN — December 26, 2011 @ 1:18 pm
Hi Neil,
So here is how I understand it for me to get right exposure, Shoot in manual mode and meter the subject.
In ex. Im shooting a person(portrait), since her face is 1/3 of the frame, I should use center weighted aim the (o) as seen on the viewfinder to her face, adjust aperture and shutter speed till I hit the 0/middle mark on the exposure markings (+/-). recompose and fire away.
Is that correct? would the exposure still be the same If I take a step back after metering the subject then take the shot.
Comment by tetzu — February 10, 2012 @ 12:18 pm
Comment by Neil vN — February 10, 2012 @ 1:54 pm
When a subject’s tonality varies, is metering the mid tone the best way to get proper exposure.
Differentiating mid tones is another thing that I’m having a hard time to understand but with this site I now I’ll get there soon.
Thanks!
Comment by tetzu — February 10, 2012 @ 2:15 pm
Tetzu,
There is a little trick you can employ to get midtones exposure correct and for that image above it would have been very quick to achieve.
I used to employ it in the days of film, without the luxury of a digital back histogram nor a lightmeter.
In the boy image above, point the camera at an area of the concrete footpath filling the frame, then zero out the camera’s meter, you will be so close to being perfect from the get-go.
Also, the same with a patch of green grass in sunlight or full shade gives a great starting point.
To prove that, right click on the top image above of the boy, and save it, open in Photoshop, then, making sure your histogram palette is open, and using the marquee or lasso tool select a small patch of that concrete then look at your histogram palette, it will be in the midtones, almost, if not perfect.
Marquee a small patch in same light as his left foot or same light just behind the boy, perfect. Then select a small patch where his shadow casts, it should read very slightly toward the shadows in the histogram, since there appears to be no harsh shadows behind him the light looked like an overcast day.
Same goes for that second image, metering on the concrete[?] area they are standing on, should give you an almost perfect exposure straight up.
Of course we are talking ambient light here, no flash, but still applies if you want your ambient to be almost spot on then fill flash. Also commonsense must prevail, no use metering on concrete/grass in shade if subject in sun, vice-versa.
Trev
Comment by Trev — February 10, 2012 @ 8:03 pm
Yes I did the photoshop exercise. got it, cant wait to apply the tips and methods here. Thanks.
Comment by tetzu — February 13, 2012 @ 5:25 pm