Welcome to the forum!

As an adjunct to the Tangents blog, the intention with this forum is to answer any questions, and allow a diverse discussion of topics related photography. With that, see it as an open invitation to just climb in and start threads and to respond to any threads.

In camera White Balance

MatrixphotoMatrixphoto Member
edited June 2013 in general photography
Hey Everyone
Ive been working on my camera techniques and been trying to get better in camera files.

But I seem to be having a Problem with my WB, Im finding I have to add + 6b to get my images to look some what correct this First image I took of my son was set for Daylight WB and then I had to add +6B shift.

image

This second Image was shot with Tungsten and Again +6B was added.

image

and then after colour correction

image

Im processing the images in Adobe Bridge. Im not quite sure what Im missing.I would like to get images with WB that look closer to this

http://jhilgersphotography.zenfolio.com/p34587384/h60afb730#h60afb730

But Im not quite sure what Im doing wrong?

Lou Recine
Matrix Photography and Design.

Comments

  • jhilgersjhilgers Member
    edited June 2013
    Lou,
    Alright, where to start here with my explanation. I am going to try to keep it as short as possible for the sake of your eyes. :) On a side note don't take my posts as a direct form of advertisement for any products either when I link them. I just throw the links out there to show you the exact products and resources I have used to get the photos the way that I have them.

    90% of the time I do a custom WB, 5% of the time I use a CTS gel and then set my WB Kelvin setting manually to match the temperature of the CTS gel (for in door uses sometimes), and the remaining 5% of the time I just use the AWB setting on my 1DX.
    I will vouch for Canon's 1DX's AWB capability. In most all situations it is almost as good as a custom WB from the times that I have used it. You don' get the weird colors you would normally expect to get when you mix flash and tungsten lighting together in weird situations that other cameras give you. I give Canon a pat on the back for this one. I think its accuracy has something to do with the new EOS iSA (Intelligent Subject Analysis System) that has its own dedicated DIGIC 4 Image Processor.

    I use two things to make my life easier when it comes to in camera white balancing and color verification during post processing.

    1. One Shot target calibration:
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JOQ10K/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    OR the slightly smaller one that is easier to carry around:

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E44QNE/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    2. ColorMunki Display and ColorChecker Passport Bundle:
    http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNDISCCPP-ColorMunki-ColorChecker-Passport/dp/B007V9N5R8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1370411547&sr=1-1&keywords=Color+Munk

    This has an awesome LR and Photoshop plugin that does all the work for you.
    *** Not sure if it supports other programs like your Adobe Bridge.***

    --------------------------------------------------------------
    So 90% of the time I will shoot my calibration target (focus on the white first) and use the histogram method that Neils speaks about to place the white properly exposed for the camera you are using in the area that you are going to be shooting in.

    Once I get my exposure set properly using the target, I tell my camera to use THAT photo for my custom WB. Waalah! I have my custom WB done. Just make sure if you go somewhere else that is different lighting to do another custom WB for the conditions your in.

    - This will cover the in camera calibration portion you are asking about.

    If I am in a hurry, I just use the AWB and seem have no problems what so ever. If there is too much tungsten lighting where I am shooting, I might throw the CTS gel on my flash and WB for it.

    Even though I am shooting in RAW, the WB I created is still contained within the RAW file so I can refer to it in LR if I choose to later on.

    After I get my exposure set for where I am shooting, I will take a shot of my ColorChecker Passport device. I will hold it out in front of me and take a shot - this will be used later in LR for creating a custom color profile for my camera and lens that I used and in the conditions that I was in.

    After I do these two steps which takes maybe a few minutes if that to do, I start taking my shots.
    ---------------------------------------------------------------

    Alright, so to get the photos the way you saw them:

    1. The first thing I do is create my custom camera profile in LR for the ColorChecker Passport. Here is a video from the makers of the device on the benefits of doing this in LR and Photoshop. You will see the explanation of how you can use it to do "warming" effects and so forth using it.



    *** Definitely check out this video if you have time. You will understand what I am speaking about a lot better after watching it. ***

    2. I select the color profile I created and apply it to my photos that I took. The colors will then be synced and I will know that the colors are really true in my photos.

    3. I use the warming patches in the ColorChecker Passport plugin in LR to warm my photos

    OR

    I simply move up the slider in LR to either warm or cool my photo to my liking and tastes to manually change it.


    That is roughly all I did to make the photo you pointed out the way that it is.




Sign In or Register to comment.