maximum flash sync speed
Last week, I had an interesting lunchtime conversation with a photographer acquaintance of mine. (It also happens that I’ll be photographing his wedding later this year.) We mostly talked about photography business related topics, but at some point I mentioned the origins of this website. How it came to be, and why the geeky domain name, and some of the original pages on here.
One of the first articles I wrote, was this one on the advantages of having a higher maximum flash sync speed. It is an explanation of why the Nikon D70 had an advantage over the Canon 10D. (They were the two most popular D-SLRs at the time). The Nikon D70 has a maximum flash sync speed of 1/500th, but only went down to 200 ISO. The Canon 10D has a maximum flash sync speed of 1/250th, but went down to 100 ISO. There were huge debates on the photography forums whether the D70 had the advantage or not, since many argued that 1/500th @ 200 ISO is the same as 1/250th @ 100 ISO.
That webpage explains why the D70 would have a distinct advantage. In describing the gist of this to my friend, I realized that my explanation on that page could’ve been much simpler.
So here it is – the advantage of having a higher max flash sync speed – but explained in a way that is more concise …
If the Nikon D70 boasts a higher maximum flash sync speed of 1/500th, but only has a minimum of 200 ISO … as opposed to the Canon 10D offering a lower max sync speed of 1/250th, but with 100 ISO as its base ISO … then it might seem that 1/500 @ 200 ISO = 1/250 @ 100 ISO.
It would be that simple if we were only regarding available light. But we’re bringing flash into this equation. So while a change in ISO affects both ambient light and flash exposure, shutter speed only affects available light. And that is where the difference comes in.
Let’s assume a certain combination of settings for ambient exposure:
1/250 @ 100 ISO @ f5.6 (for the 10D), which is the same as:
1/500 @ 200 ISO @ f5.6 (for the D70)
But let’s change the 10D settings to:
1/250th @ 200 ISO @ f8 … which is still the same ambient exposure, compared to:
1/500th @ 200 ISO @ f5.6
But now, when we add flash, we need to add f8 worth of flash to the scene for the 10D, as opposed to only f5.6 worth of flash for the D70. So our flashguns have an easier time with the higher maximum flash sync speed in situations where we are shooting in bright light conditions.
If only I had explained it this succinctly originally.
As a side-note:
Many photographers are disappointed that their 5D bodies have a max flash sync speed of 1/200 and not 1/250 like most other D-SLRs. The reality is that this translates to only 1/3rd stop difference in flash exposure. It might make a difference, but not a huge one. Similarly, the Canon 1D mkIII and mkIV bodies have a max flash sync speed of 1/300 …. weeeell, that’s less than 1/3rd of a stop. Nothing to write home about. But the number 1/300 does does look good on paper.
Still, a higher maximum sync speed is always a bonus.
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“Similarly, the Canon 1D mkIII and mkIV bodies have a max flash sync speed of 1/300″ — for completeness: the Nikon D300 and D700 (and perhaps other pro Nikons) also have a max sync of 1/320.
Comment by Hugo Vincent — January 18, 2010 @ 4:53 pm
Dear Neil,
2nd paragraph:
“One of the first articles I wrote, was this one on the advantages of having a higher maximum flash sync speed. It is an explanation of why the Nikon D700 had an advantage over the Canon 10D.”
I think you meant the D70. Anyway, I would like to thank you for this awesome website and the book you have written, and has greatly improved my understanding of lighting techniques. Keep up the good work!
Comment by william — January 18, 2010 @ 11:54 pm
Comment by Neil — January 19, 2010 @ 3:47 am
Hugo Vincent,
If you set the flash sync speed on the D300 and D700 to 1/320, your usable flash range is diminished by almost half. I talked to Neil about this in an earlier post on D300 settings: http://neilvn.com/tangents/2008/04/04/nikon-d300-custom-settings/#comment-590
The flash sync speed that provides the longest flash range for the two cameras is 1/250, which is currently what most Nikon models support.
Comment by Stephen — January 19, 2010 @ 4:01 pm
Hi, Can you explain why with my pop up flash the flash sync speed is 1/320, but when I use my sb800 it becomes irrelevent. I found this out the other day when I was exposing for the background and got a shutter speed of 1/1000. I then popped the pop up flash up and it dropped to 1/320. I was in manual mode. Consequently the background was over exposed.
Thanks,
Nick
Comment by Nick — January 20, 2010 @ 3:46 pm
Comment by Neil — January 20, 2010 @ 4:38 pm
Hi Neil, Yes I see what you mean now. As I would be using the flash for fill-in, the loss in flash power would not be that bad as I would only need a blip of flash to light the subject. Thanks
Nick
Comment by Nick — January 20, 2010 @ 5:21 pm
Hello Neil
iam a Nikon Shooter and got a Question Iam out on a Sunny day and want to use the Wide open Aperture (2.8 or 4) to Get a Shallow Depth of field without blowing out the Background. Shuld i keep my flash outpower to -1.5 to -1.7 TTL BL and switch to Auto FP(1/250 or 1/300) Hope you can help me.
Thanks
Anoop
Comment by Anoop Nair — January 21, 2010 @ 3:13 am
Comment by Neil — January 21, 2010 @ 11:45 am
The 5D Mark II has a rated max flash sync speed of 1/200. In actuality there is a faint black line. If you want a full-sensor crisp picture, you need to drop it to 1/160. This happens on my camera, and on several other people’s who have 5DII cameras. Others have reported no problems.
Comment by Bill Millios — January 22, 2010 @ 10:44 pm
Comment by Neil — January 22, 2010 @ 11:29 pm
Yes indeed, I have been one of those photographers that found out the hard way, that shooting max sync speed in the studio leaves me with a dark edge on the image. It took me a while to have the “Eureka moment” with this as I didn’t really know what the problem was at first – after all, I was doing everything right! But when I did figure it out, I was kicking myself – the solution was so simple – just use a lower shutter speed!
No doubt most readers know this already but what they may not realise (and hence the reason for my response here) is that this problem does not occur if one fires the studio flash using a speedlite (dialled down to min. power) instead of a radio trigger, then shooting at max sync speed works fine. Personally, I prefer to use a radio trigger and live with the lower shutter speed as it makes for easier handling on account of the lighter weight on the hotshoe. But it’s nice to know there’s a way to get max sync speed while still triggering remotely.
- Thorsten.
Comment by Thorsten — January 23, 2010 @ 8:31 am