
bounce flash photography technique – mimicking window light
The classic shot – a beautiful bride lit by soft window light.
That’s a yes on the beautiful bride – but it’s a solid no on the window light.
What you see there is on-camera flash. (Which most likely won’t be a surprise to regular readers of the Tangents blog.)
This image is from a wedding this past weekend, and it makes a great example of how light, choice of lens, composition, angle and technique come together to make an image work. With a bit of post-processing added finally for that vintage feel.
Let’s look at the light first .. how I used on-camera bounce flash for my lighting here.
As is usual when working indoors and I want fine control over how I bounce my flash, I use the black foamie thing. I had my flash pointing ‘straight up’ into a vertical position from the camera, and pointed slightly forward. Which means that with this photograph, my flash was pointing directly to my left, and slightly towards the bride. But the piece of black foam shielded any direct light falling on her.
The wall that I am bouncing my light off, now becomes my light source. With a larger area like that, and how it is positioned, it now gives the appearance of soft window light. Simple.
I stood on a chair over the bride to get this angle, and focused on her one eye-lid. With the plane of focus, there is part of her bouquet that is sharp too .. but her eyelashes need to be sharp here.
My choice of lens in this instance was the Nikon 85mm f1.4 (B&H) on the Nikon D3.
My camera settings were: 1/160th @ f1.8 @ 800 ISO,
which means that the Nikon 85mm f1.8 (B&H) would’ve worked just as well. And similarly, the Canon 85mm f1.2 (B&H) or Canon 85mm f1.8 (B&H) would’ve been perfect too.
.
Here is the comparison image where I disabled my flash, so that you can see what the ambient light levels were at those settings:

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Switching my flash on, and being specific about how I bounce my flash, here is the image out of the RAW converter, with the WB adjusted. The skin tones are a little too saturated, but this is a good starting point for me to play around with the image further in ACR / Lightroom.

The first thing you will notice is that the colors were muted in the first image at the top. This is intentionally for effect. I wanted a vintage feel to the image. You will also notice that I cloned out the white line that leads from the bride’s chin to the flowers. That’s the edge of her veil, and I found it distracting. Ideally I should’ve taken care of it at the time by positioning the veil slightly differently. A few minutes work in Photoshop simplifies it by removing it all together.
To get to the vintage look with the muted colours for this image, I changed some settings in ACR, which is the program I use to edit the RAW file. It should work similarly for Lightroom. Since I liked the settings, I saved them as a preset for future use.
I pulled down the Vibrance and Saturation ..

.. and also adjusted the settings for Split Toning ..

.. and adding a slight vignette in ACR (and editing out the edge of her veil later in Photoshop), I ended up with this final image as shown at the top:

As is most often found, it is an intersect between a number of factors to create an image that has impact. In this case, (as mentioned at the start), a number of things have to fall into place .. light, choice of lens, composition, angle and presentation / post-processing.
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Also join us on the Tangents forum for further discussions.
If you need more direct help or instruction on flash photography,
I do present workshops & seminars and also offer individual tutoring sessions.
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using these affiliate links to order equipment & other goodies. Thank you!







A beautiful image Neil, the processing really fits the scene and only you told us it was not really window light who would have known any better.
Paul
Comment by Paul Gallagher — December 7, 2009 @ 6:03 am
Nice how the light was able to provide the highlight in the earring. Amazing stuff. The angle not only complements the bride but the flowers. I’ve never seen stephanotis look so good.
BTW I ordered your book yesterday. Looking forward to it. I am sure that with the commission you will be able to now afford another black foamie thing. ;-)
Comment by Libby — December 7, 2009 @ 6:03 am
Wow, thank you for sharing your inside-information!! I like that you describe the whole process. It gives much more insight than just writing “applied some Photoshop Fairy Dust” ;-)
Comment by Martin Burri — December 7, 2009 @ 7:45 am
Really nice and soft lighting.
I photographed a wedding last weekend and the on camera (D300+ SB-800) flash with TTL and this black foamie thing made my day (stuffed with a half CTS gel). I have packed my lightstands and umbrellas including the wireless flash triggers and they stayed
in the bag in the corner of the wedding location. I didn’t use them at all. All thanks to your very good
book I ordered some weeks ago. It was very helpful.
The whole evening I was looking for walls beside me to bounce the flash to get
more natural lighting. Your procedure has already a fixed place in my brain :-)
And it worked very very well.
Comment by Horst Fuchs — December 7, 2009 @ 7:46 am
Neil, another really useful post. Thank you. I love the way you share your “before” images with us and explain how they came about and how you got to the “end” image. It really helps me to develop in my head a better vision of what I can do with different situations myself.
Comment by Mark Cornwell — December 7, 2009 @ 9:00 am
Neil, beautiful photo!!
(Just wanted to add, since I was just asked by a new photographer, that ACR stands for Adobe Camera Raw and is the raw processor that comes with Photoshop and is built into Lightroom.)
Comment by Stephanie Zettl — December 7, 2009 @ 11:35 am
Great image Neil and ofcourse good tutorial. Why did you decide to go to vintage look? For me, original looks also superb :)
If I may ask you something around this techniqe, but it concernes my other problem? How about WB? Ok, for this image it is not such a problem since you have pure white dress. But what If you bounce your flash from colored wall? I have this problem with my recent photos, where I bounced from green wall (was no other option). And I don’t have clue how to get correct WB. Especially since I have multiple images and each a bit differnet color due to different green walls around. I want my photos (skin) to look the same.
Comment by Saso — December 7, 2009 @ 11:48 am
Comment by Neil — December 7, 2009 @ 12:32 pm
Neil: thanks for an absolutely fabulous site. It’s hard to believe the site is free. In reading your discussion of the orientation of the flash head, I am not sure I follow your description. You said you had the flash pointed straight up and slightly toward the bride. You also said this meant the flash was pointed directly to your left and slightly towards the bride. Last, you said you bounced off a wall. How did you do a wall bounce if the flash was pointed straight up and not aimed to your left? Thanks, Richard
Comment by Richard Sandor — December 7, 2009 @ 1:42 pm
Comment by Neil — December 7, 2009 @ 1:53 pm
fabulous and unique another shot. I love more and see again and again before the muted version. Lovely…Pinky..
sharing is empowering the world of art,God bless you Neil.
Comment by rafiayub — December 7, 2009 @ 1:56 pm
wow!
Comment by Claybrook — December 7, 2009 @ 2:55 pm
Hi Neil. Great tips. In the diagram for the first preset, you say to pull down vibrance and clarity. It shows the clarity increased.
Can you clarify?
Jim Olson
Comment by Jimmy Olson — December 7, 2009 @ 3:02 pm
Comment by Neil — December 7, 2009 @ 3:04 pm
Hey Neil,
I have a question about metering for this image. In your “no-flash” image, it seems the scene is significantly under-exposed.
I’ve taken a look at your book, and I know you frequently meter for the bride’s dress, and then use the histogram to place the whites just to the left of blown-out.
In this scene, did you use your standard histogram-metering technique….then intentionally underexpose the image? How did you know how much to drop the ambient exposure so that the flash would become appealing?
Thanks for any help!
-Nick
Comment by nick — December 7, 2009 @ 3:06 pm
Comment by Neil — December 7, 2009 @ 5:00 pm
I am always amazed at what can be achieved with an on-camera speedlight. I wonder why Nikon doesn’t put out literature showing how to correctly use bounce flash instead of the dismal little diagrams they show about bouncing the flash 45 degrees off the ceiling. Before I found your site, Neil, I had no idea that an on-camera flash could be used to produce such beautifully lit photographs. If you were to post this image on any photography forum and ask people to “guess the light method” I would be gobsmacked if anyone mentioned an on-camera flash.
Comment by Mac — December 7, 2009 @ 6:36 pm
Thanks neil! that makes perfect sense. Ambient was a non-issue because all of your lighting was coming from the flash – which itself was being set automatically through TTL. I really feel like you’re one of the only people using on-camera flash with such finesse!
Very much looking forward to your next book :)
Nick
Comment by nick — December 7, 2009 @ 7:46 pm
This light looks nice and soft. How far was the bride from the wall?
Comment by Allan — December 7, 2009 @ 9:49 pm
Comment by Neil — December 7, 2009 @ 10:17 pm
Neil,
Great post as always…I think your onto something special by complimenting your already fantastic lighting/technique posts with practical post production information. Keep it up!!
Thanks,
Dave
Comment by Dave from NJ — December 8, 2009 @ 9:34 am
Neil,
Awesome shot and post as usual. I know some people have asked this as well and I know you are very busy, but I would love to see a post on your raw conversion presets and also maybe one on what kind of monitor you use and how you calibrate it :) Thanks for all of the info you provide… you rock!!
Comment by Daniel — December 8, 2009 @ 9:58 am
Many thanks for the information Neil. I just got your book and have today set aside to study it. (What a great day!)
Comment by Corinne — December 8, 2009 @ 12:07 pm
This is a WOW Factor image. I usually bump up vibrance and Saturation sliders in ACR. But never thoguht that sliding those down can give such a nice vintage look.
Really Cool.
Thanks for Sharing.
-MP
Comment by Mohanpreet Singh — December 8, 2009 @ 6:16 pm
I love the tone of the image, yes the original is also beautiful but the pp is wonderful. I wonder if there’s any lr and nx2 gurus that could recreate this look using just nx2!
Neil, great book by the way – early crissie pressie to myself.
Comment by Paul Hodgson — December 8, 2009 @ 7:22 pm
Ni Neil,another cool picture,though I like a bit more the original one :).One question about post-production.Do you normally use ACR to process all your images?.I’m asking that,because I spent some hours with a professional photograher and he showed me huge differences between Nikon’s and Adobe’s RAW processing software,by simply opening the original photo.Anyone could spot differences between color saturation [less on ACR],and sharpness [again,less on ACR].
Thanks again for your blog,It’s becoming essential!
Gorka.
Comment by Gorka — December 9, 2009 @ 3:27 am
Comment by Neil — December 9, 2009 @ 3:48 am
One thing I am confused about which I hope you can clarify…
Let’s say you meter the ambient light(with the ‘P’ setting in Nikon) before taking the photo and it says: f2.8 & 1/15s & using ISO 800. As shutter is the only factor affecting the ambient light do you go to Manual mode and set those settings and use TTL from flash? also, assuming your camera lowest sync speed is 1/30 …does that mean you set aperature to f1.8? or leave it at 1/15 and let the flash freeze the subject?
Bit confused how you go from reading ambient light to flash exposure…
Comment by Bobo — December 9, 2009 @ 5:09 am
Comment by Neil — December 9, 2009 @ 5:36 am
Thanks Neil for your answer.I didn’t know ACR needed “tweaking” to match other software,this is interesting.However,my flash pictures are already a lot better since I follow your tips.Suggestion: a new book [better a DVD] for the future ;-)
Comment by Gorka — December 9, 2009 @ 5:42 am
Neil, stunning image.
Dumb question, the setting you use in ARC would the match the corresponding controls in lightroom ?
dp
Comment by David Purslow — December 9, 2009 @ 7:50 am
Comment by Neil — December 9, 2009 @ 10:53 am
Hi Neil,
maybe it will be interesting to include also as a part of your workflow tutorial “tweaking” the ACR. Do you use something like scripts, or Gretag macbeth cards or just visually … etc. ?? I think I’m not the only one hungry for such informations from folks here. :) Thanks.
Comment by Roman Pincek — December 9, 2009 @ 12:06 pm
Comment by Neil — December 9, 2009 @ 12:59 pm
Absolutely beautiful! Thank you so much for the post!
Comment by Frances — December 9, 2009 @ 1:48 pm
Hi Neil,
What is “chimping”?
I looked for a glossary but could not find one.
Also, you “make sure the ambient light is under by 2 stops or so”.
Do you have a “stops” chart here?
Frankee
Comment by Frankee — December 10, 2009 @ 9:58 pm
Comment by Neil — December 11, 2009 @ 12:47 am
Neil,
Can you please explain a ltttle about wireless remote systems?
I mean, which one is best and why? I am a canon fan and I had a canon flash speedliite wireless remote transmitter ST-E2. Should I go for a third party equipment for a better performance?
Comment by rafiayub — December 11, 2009 @ 9:45 am
Comment by Neil — December 12, 2009 @ 4:03 am
Hi Neil, superb shot as usual.
I have a question about iTTL: Do you have to bin lot’s of photos due to ‘blinkers’ ?
Whenever I try using iTTL for people shots I always have trouble with the pre flashes causing the subject to blink as the shutter is fired. Maybe a lot of my family are just super sensitive blinkers, and it’s not such a big issue in general.
Marcus
Comment by marcus — December 12, 2009 @ 6:32 pm
Comment by Neil — December 12, 2009 @ 7:12 pm
Ahh.. yes, I usually have my flash set to rear curtain sync. I will go and swap that now [D200], and give iTTL another go, hopefully that’s what the problem has been. Pretty obvious now that you mention it, doh !
Thanks
Comment by marcus — December 12, 2009 @ 8:03 pm
Comment by Neil — December 12, 2009 @ 9:06 pm
Comment by Neil — December 13, 2009 @ 11:02 pm
Lightroom does allow one to select different profiles for RAW processing depending on your camera type also. For my Canon I typically pick Canon Portrait, Landscape, Standard etc as the case maybe to override the default ACR profile that Lightroom provides. The same concept should be available for Nikon and should help the person seeing the difference between the Nikon software and ACR.
Comment by Vijay Sundaram — December 16, 2009 @ 3:35 am
Thank you so much for sharing your wealth of knowledge. I just shot with my SB-600 on my D5000 last night for the first time and LOVED the bounce light. Not liking the direct flash too much, but then again, have not really figured it out yet. Thanks again! :)
Comment by Mak — December 17, 2009 @ 10:35 am
Social comments and analytics for this post…
This post was mentioned on Twitter by diyphotography: I find mysef in love with Neil’s control over flash and ambient http://bit.ly/5CfoeO (via @Neil_vN)…
Trackback by uberVU - social comments — December 18, 2009 @ 11:06 am
Many thanks for an excellent “knowledge base” for (flash) photography! Your reflections (no pun intended…) are greatly appreciated! I see that you often use a relatively high ISO (800-2000) even when using (bounced) flash. Is that because you’re at your maximum flash output, or do you intentionally set a high ISO in order to capture some mood from ambient lighting?
I also wonder (if you have the time :)) whether or not a doubling of the ISO in-camera would result in exactly the same image as a +1 stop exposure compensation in the RAW editing, in terms of noise?
Comment by Hannibal Fossum — December 19, 2009 @ 2:34 pm
Comment by Neil — December 19, 2009 @ 3:08 pm
Neil, did you gel your flashlight on the above picture?
Comment by Adi — February 26, 2010 @ 10:21 pm
Comment by Neil vN — February 26, 2010 @ 10:44 pm
Sorry Neil – I’m a bit late coming to this one…. I did though want to comment on your line: “My choice of lens in this instance was the Nikon 85mm f1.4 (B&H) on the Nikon D3….which means that the Nikon 85mm f1.8 (B&H) would’ve worked just as well.”
I hesitate to disagree with one of my heroes, but in this instance I’m afraid I must. Most lenses are NOT at their best when fully open. By using the f/1.4 lens at f/1.8 you are FAR closer to the sweet spot for that lens (my guess is around f/2?). However, should you have used the f/1.8 lens, you would be using it absolutely wide open, with all the CA and other issues inherent in doing this.
I know it sounds a little as if I’m being a pedant, but this is why we pros spend such a fortune on fast glass. Not so we can always use them wide open, but so that when we DO use it close to wide open we are getting the best from that lens.
I always tell my students, an f/2.8 lens used at f/4 will give you a better image than an f/4 lens at f/4.
Comment by Nick — April 29, 2010 @ 9:45 am
Comment by Neil vN — May 17, 2010 @ 2:33 am
Hi Neil, I have just come across your website and it’s amazing. You are giving so much. Many thanks.
Comment by Richard Martin — December 21, 2011 @ 6:50 pm
Hi Neil,
When you bounce the light from the flash, do you need to use only white wall? If for example there is no white wall in the room, how do you overcome this problem? do you need to use gel?
Thank you.
Regina
Comment by Regina — December 22, 2011 @ 6:15 pm
Comment by Neil vN — December 23, 2011 @ 1:42 pm
Hi Neil
I have spent the last two days reading up your site. Undoubtedly you are a brilliant photographer with in-depth understanding of what goes behind image creation. What amazes me even more is the way you share this for the benefit of others .. I used to think I was pretty good with multiple speedlights and nikon CLS — till you showed me what you could do with a single on-camera flash and BFT !! Cheers buddy .. keep it up.
Regards
Sumanta
Comment by Skd works — June 11, 2012 @ 3:30 am
Neil Thanks a lot very good article. Do u have more article like this i could read ? Please advise. I m inspired by your article.
Comment by Mahesh — July 18, 2012 @ 11:19 am
Mahesh,
Here you go, knock yourself out with this volume of reading material.
http://neilvn.com/tangents/index/technique-style/
Trev.
Comment by Trev — July 18, 2012 @ 11:28 pm
Thank you.
Comment by Mahesh — July 19, 2012 @ 1:34 pm
Hi Neil,
Do you have any suggestions for Aperture 3 for post production or raw processing ?
Scott
Comment by Scott — October 1, 2012 @ 2:16 pm
Hi Neil,
Thanks for sharing your work with us…. Great job
Comment by Bovrell — May 1, 2013 @ 9:50 am