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Wedding photography – lighting large groups

July 10, 2011 Neil vN 48 Comments

Wedding photography – lighting large groups

Weddings are one of those occasions when families and friends come together from far and wide. An opportunity to see people they might rarely see otherwise. So it is an important task of any wedding photographer to record this – to get photographs of the various family groups.

This photo is the pull-back shot from one of the big groups I had to photograph at an Indian wedding this weekend. Now, everyone who has been to an Indian wedding, knows that they are sprawling events. There’s lots going on and it can be slightly chaotic at times. So when the bride warned me before the wedding date that there were several large groups of people that she’d love to have photographed, I was ready …

There are 50 people in this specific group photo. A really big group! Now, with the time constraints on the wedding day, there is no opportunity to (or need to) mess around with complex lighting setups. Keep it simple! Really simple.

So there is my setup. I’ve mentioned it in a previous article on lighting the family groups with off-camera flash. Two Quantum flashes on either side, each with a 60″ umbrella to really spread the light wide. And that’s the entire basic idea here – a flood of even light. Nice light that just opens up everyone’s face. No cross-shadows. Nothing difficult to deal with in the post-processing edit.

The two Q-flashes were triggered with PocketWizard Plus II units. Of course, being a static setup like this with off-camera flash, it had to be manual flash exposure. TTL flash has no place here. I shot at f6.3 @ 800 ISO with a wide angle. Plenty DoF at the focused distance. (No, I didn’t measure it.)

A little bit more about what you can see there in that image:

The guy on the right-hand side is Dipak, the videographer on this occasion. He’s cool – laid-back, professional and helpful. The two lights you see in front of the umbrella, are his video-lights that he had up during the ceremony, and to record some of the activity around the family photo session. The incandescent lights from a videographer rarely bother me, since I gel my speedlights when I photograph the ceremony and reception. I also gelled my Q-flashes here with a 1/2 CTS gel.

The small ladder you see in the front, is mine. I knew I might need to get some elevation with the group photos. The people in that photo are on 3 levels. Chairs in the front, where ladies are seated. Husbands or boyfriends stand behind them. Then there are more families standing on the mandap stage itself. (The mandap stage is where the ceremony takes place.) I do make sure that there is no one standing directly in front of the bride and groom, nor is anyone standing directly behind them. This way, the focus is still on the bride and groom in the center.

Arranging a group of this size needs some confidence and a big voice. It’s not for the timid! I start off by having the bride and groom seated. Then I start filling in the front row of seats, and then arrange their partners behind them. I do fill in some space with guests. Then I add the people on the top layer. I really try that no one looks *over* someone’s head. Then you’d just see a pair of anonymous eyes. The best is for people to look over the shoulders of the two people in front of them. Then they are staggered in a good way.

That about sums it up. What I specifically wanted to show here was the simplicity of the setup. Two big lights spreading light evenly around. Nothing more needed. Simplicity is the key.

 

Relates articles

  • Lighting large groups at weddings – Profoto
  • Positioning your flash for the formals
  • A simple lighting setup for photographing the wedding formals
  • more articles on Wedding Photography
  • more articles about Off-Camera Flash
  • more images Indian wedding, New Jersey

 

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Filed Under: flash photography, lighting, Uncategorized, wedding photography Tagged With: New Jersey wedding photographer, wedding photography, wedding photography techniques


 

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Neil vN

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48 Comments, Add Your Own

  1. 1Rishi S. says

    July 11, 2011 at 2:34 am

    Awesome stuff, Neil. Being Indian, I can guess how chaotic (and long, and crowded) these ceremonies can become. If one doesn’t have a clear plan in place, a nervous breakdown is a very clear possibility. :)

    Reply
  2. 2ron lemish says

    July 11, 2011 at 5:58 am

    Amazing that just after a wedding you have time to prepare this blog. You are a busy man.
    I have a company that photographs High School and University reunions here in Montreal.You have explained well what we also do to set up the class reunion shot.
    Sometimes in crowded quarters we have students sitting in front on the floor and at time two rows of people on the floor the first row sitting on their bums and the second row slightly higher in a kneeling position.Here again a ladder is important to gain a little hight to prevent a front row from hiding the second row behind.When we have to photograph more than 80 students we split the group into a male and female shot.
    For this all to work with the larger group count we set up two rows of students behind the first row of seated students.They are offset so that there is no one directly behind the first standing row.Just before the photo is taken we have the first standing row slightly squat down not to block those standing in the second row.We put the remaining students mostly men standing on two sets of chairs behind the first three rows. Here again the students standing on the first row of chairs squat at the time the photo is take.Through twelve years of taking reunion photos we find this the best way to set up large groups, sometimes in a restricted area.
    You have to build hight rather than width and we usually set our rows of chairs 12 across. If there are no students sitting on the floor ( smaller groups ) remind the women to cross their legs at their ankles. We have to work fast in the period of time after the cocktail hour and before the start of the meal. We use one sb 900 flash with flash head slightly tilted up to prevent burning out the floor area showing before those seated. We shoot at F 5.6 from about 30 to 40 feet and that is ok for DOF. ASA 400 or 800. You can see samples of our work at http://www.reunphoto.net

    Ron Lemish Lph.

    Reply
  3. 3Joe Leong says

    July 11, 2011 at 6:27 am

    Love Indian weddings. Bollywood drama and the works.
    I notice matching purple brollies for the occasion

    Reply
  4. 4Neil vN says

    July 11, 2011 at 7:22 am

    Nope, not purple umbrellas. That’s just how the black backing of the reflective umbrellas blow out when photographed like this.

    Neil vN

    Reply
  5. 5Scott says

    July 11, 2011 at 8:23 am

    Hi Neil,

    Being inexperienced with this type of set up, I have a question….
    Where did you meter from for the flash lights in the line up? i.e is ensuring that the front row and back row is evenly lit a concern or not really over this depth?

    Thanks,
    Scott

    Reply
  6. 6Nikki Moore says

    July 11, 2011 at 9:59 am

    Hi Neil! This is so timely. I have been using two 60″ umbrellas and Canon 580 EXII flashes for indoor formals for a few months now (mainly due to the knowledge I’ve gained in reading your blog and books). I have a question — the church I was in last weekend had very shiny wood paneling behind the altar/stage. Every photo has two reflections on the wall from the two flashes. I was also using a diffused on-camera flash and that helped light the whole place a little bit. But is there a way to not have those two spots? I had the lights up very high (around 10′) and angled down. Do I need to angle more with higher lights?

    Reply
  7. 7Mary-Claire says

    July 11, 2011 at 11:00 am

    Great explanation–thanks! Any chance you’ll be posting the actual photos? Love the colors…

    Reply
  8. 8Neil vN says

    July 11, 2011 at 11:23 am

    Nope .. it’s not necessary.
    All the info is already there. : )

    Neil vN

    Reply
  9. 9Scott Shah says

    July 11, 2011 at 5:26 pm

    Hi Neil,

    Just emailed to quote me your price for Indian wedding for my daughter next year. So perfect to see Indian wedding you just did.

    Scott

    Reply
  10. 10Neil vN says

    July 11, 2011 at 8:06 pm

    Scott .. thank you!

    Neil vN

    Reply
  11. 11E J says

    July 11, 2011 at 10:42 pm

    Spot on. Agree manual flash, exposure and focus. Having photographed large groups I found that camera on tripod and myself standing by enabled me to scan the people and to make sure that no one had shifted position or was scratching their nose. A problem can be blinkers. A few people are flash shy. They close their eyes, either intentionally or unintentionally, when they think the flashes are about to fire. I had to surprise them so they wouldn’t anticipate the flash. I’d start telling a story: “You know a funny thing happened on the way here as I was getting in my car” Click.

    Reply
  12. 12parv says

    July 12, 2011 at 12:46 am

    Neil, which factors govern the height of umbrella & the ladder? Or, what is “high enough”?

    Reply
  13. 13Neil vN says

    July 12, 2011 at 4:08 am

    Parv .. usually I try to have the light source (umbrellas / softbox) about 30 to 45 degrees above eye level. In this instance though, I had to raise the umbrellas higher because of the video lights in the way. (They were taped to the ground to prevent guests accidentally knocking them over.) But this extra height actually helped because I was more elevated than usual, and they were looking slightly up towards me. As it often happens, there is theory and intent … and then there is dealing with real-world constraints on the actual day.

    Neil vN

    Reply
  14. 14briand says

    July 12, 2011 at 5:07 am

    Neil, do you mind sharing the umbrella brand/link as you usually do :)

    unlike usuall umbrella, it’s so deep

    thanx :)

    Reply
  15. 15Neil vN says

    July 12, 2011 at 6:11 am

    Brian, they are the 60″ Photoflex umbrellas, as I have listed here on my page of lighting accessories that I use.

    They are just regular umbrellas. They look “deep” because of the wide-angle distortion of the lens I used for the pull-back shot. It was the Nikon 14-24mm lens, used at 16mm. So that does make the umbrellas oddly shaped.

    Neil vN

    Reply
  16. 16Yeyeht Tejada says

    July 12, 2011 at 6:45 am

    Thank you for taking the time to write and share. The simple the better – because it’s easier to understand for beginners like me. :)

    Reply
  17. 17Kevin W. says

    July 12, 2011 at 9:39 pm

    Neil, do you put the lights as far back as wattage allows to reduce falloff?

    Reply
  18. 18Neil vN says

    July 13, 2011 at 7:14 am

    That’s exactly it.

    But as I mention above in the other comment, I had limited choice in where to place the light-stands.

    Neil vN

    Reply
  19. 19parv says

    July 14, 2011 at 7:13 am

    Re: height – Thank you, Neil.

    Reply
  20. 20jomathan says

    July 16, 2011 at 6:25 pm

    Great read, thanks.

    Did you have the flashes at the same power setting?

    Reply
  21. 21Neil vN says

    July 16, 2011 at 10:17 pm

    Jonathan .. yup, at this point, with such a large group, the best is to have very even light from edge to edge … and for this, the flashes are set to the same power.

    Neil vN

    Reply
  22. 22Neil Patel says

    July 17, 2011 at 1:58 am

    Hi, Neil Indian wedding are not esay to photograph, if dont have plan in place..you have done amzing job w family photos. just for my info, waht lens did you use for family photo of these size, and amount of sapce you had to work with. I used 16mm on my last wedding cus I did not have ladder, I was on stage no where else to stand. I was not informed about large group photo.

    thank you for sharing your experience.

    Reply
  23. 23Neil vN says

    July 17, 2011 at 3:19 am

    I didn’t want to go super-wide for then there is distortion to the edges. But I had to use my Nikon 14-24mm f2.8 lens, and was working around 20mm … still leaving enough room to the sides for a bit of a crop.

    It was really tight working conditions, for my position wasn’t really something I could adjust.

    Neil vN

    Reply
  24. 24Tony says

    July 17, 2011 at 4:32 am

    Hi Neil,
    Thanks for addressing this issue. I would appreciate your thoughts on these questions:
    – Can this set-up be achieved with a 580 EX II in each of the 60″ umbrellas?
    – What would be the cons if I decide to use Flex TT5s and a Mini TT1 in TTL configuration for this type of shot?
    – When you gel your flash with a 1/2 CTS gel what’s your WB setting on the camera?
    Thanks.

    Reply
  25. 25Neil vN says

    July 17, 2011 at 8:25 am

    Hi there Tony …

    1. I think speedlights would be a touch under-powered for this. With the two Q-flashes, at full power, I was already at the edge of where I wanted to be in terms of aperture and ISO. So you’d do better with dual speedlights in each umbrella.

    2. the “con” of using TTL … your exposures would vary from shot to shot. That would make your post-processing time longer. Really, for this kind of thing – a static setup, where your subject is in a fixed spot, and your lights are in a fixed spot, Manual Flash is the ONLY want to go. As much as love working with TTL, and the ease with which the TTL technology gets me close or at the correct exposure very quickly … this isn’t the time to mess around with anything else but manual flash exposure.

    3. The question would be – what is the WB of your dominant light source? Since the 1/2 CTS gels are around 3700K, that’s where I’d be with the WB setting on my camera. However, I am shooting in RAW, and will very likely do some minor adjustment on the color balance.

    Neil vN

    Reply
  26. 26mike says

    July 17, 2011 at 9:17 am

    “It was the Nikon 14-24mm lens, used at 16mm. So that does make the umbrellas oddly shaped.”

    Reply
  27. 27Tony says

    July 17, 2011 at 1:07 pm

    Thanks Neil for your usual insight. I appreciate it.

    Reply
  28. 28Dave says

    July 30, 2011 at 1:09 am

    I think you have the flash camera right aimed at the left side and the flash camera left shooting to the right so they cross in the middle and there aren’t any hot spots?

    Reply
  29. 29Dorene says

    July 30, 2011 at 9:37 am

    Neil, thanks again for yet another very helpful post. I’m about to do a choral group shot of about 60-75 with my 60″ umbrellas and Alien Bee 800s. Are you using 13-foot stands, or are higher stands needed to get this height? thanks!

    Reply
  30. 30Neil vN says

    July 30, 2011 at 10:44 am

    13-foot stands will do it.

    Neil vN

    Reply
  31. 31Arturo S. Ramirez says

    August 16, 2011 at 1:48 pm

    Hi Neil,

    In a group photo where people are staggered, just like this one, where do you set your focus to ensure everyone is sharp? How do you make sure everyone look sharp? Would using a smaller aperture such as F8, F11 ensure this? If so, and I’m repeating myself here, in a staggered situation, where exactly would you set the focus on?

    Thanks.

    Arturo

    Reply
  32. 32Neil vN says

    August 16, 2011 at 1:52 pm

    For any aperture, the DoF extends 1/3rd way to the front of the plane of focus, and 2/3rds of the way to the back. So the DoF to the rear is always more. I therefore simply focus on the front row of people if there are two rows, or the 2nd row of people if there are more than 2 rows.

    Neil vN

    Reply
  33. 33Jerry says

    August 16, 2011 at 5:09 pm

    Hi Neil,
    Great as always, thanks. From this angle it looks like if you were on the ladder you’d get the video lights in your field of view. Is that an illusion, or have you just not got the ladder positioned where it will actually be? And, is 6.3 your “go to” aperture for group shots? Lastly, do you approach lighting any differently if you are dealing with beautiful, vivid colors, like at an Indian wedding, than you do at the other weddings where bridesmaid dresses all seem to be one color with the B&G in B&W?
    Thanks,
    Jerry

    Reply
  34. 34Neil vN says

    August 16, 2011 at 5:57 pm

    The ultra-wide angle lens gives and odd perspective to the pull-back shot.

    My lighting remains the same for vivid colors as it would for muted colors. My post-processing might be adapted though, but the lighting remains the same.

    Re the use of f6.3 … it was enough depth of field here. It’s that intersect between the amount of light I am getting, and choice of ISO.

    Neil vN

    Reply
  35. 35Arturo S. Ramirez says

    August 16, 2011 at 6:10 pm

    Thanks so much for answering my question Neil.

    This is the second time I’ve asked a question. The first time I did, you answered very quickly. The second time I did, I wasn’t expecting a quick answer just because I thought you had other better things to attend to than answer a simple (I guess it would be to you) question like that. Was I wrong!

    You truly are a gift to all of us who love photography. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and expertise.

    Reply
  36. 36Arturo S. Ramirez says

    August 17, 2011 at 9:55 am

    May I add another question to my earlier e-mail, which I neglected to ask, concerning focusing? In auto focus mode, which mode would you use – single, dynamic or auto area mode?

    Thanks

    Reply
  37. 37Neil vN says

    August 17, 2011 at 1:03 pm

    Arturo .. the focusing mode *has* to be single. The group isn’t going anywhere and is very static.

    I wouldn’t use Auto … I don’t want to relinquish control right there. It isn’t a sporting event where the subject is moving erratically at high speed. This group is quite fixed. And patiently waiting for me.

    Neil vN

    Reply
  38. 38Arturo S. Ramirez says

    August 20, 2011 at 4:07 pm

    Thanks so much again Neil for that speedy reply.

    Reply
  39. 39Jonathan Trueman says

    December 19, 2011 at 9:29 am

    Hi Neil

    Firstly, I very much appreciate your postings and have learned a lot from these and your books so thank you.

    I too have had hot spots on wood panelling behind groups when shooting with softboxes and studio flash. Any reason not to bounce studio flash with a suitable ceiling?

    This late post prompts me to wish you a Happy Christmas!

    Reply
  40. 40Neil vN says

    December 20, 2011 at 12:16 pm

    Jonathan .. if the light isn’t being bounced off the ceiling directly above (thereby giving top-heavy light), then there’s no reason it shouldn’t work.

    Neil vN

    Reply
  41. 41Steve K says

    December 22, 2011 at 1:21 pm

    Hi,
    Thanks for all your insightful knowledge. Question: With your umbrellas that far away, would the quality of light be pretty much the same as direct flashes on the stands? In other words, would an umbrella (at a long distance) approach a point of light like a direct flash, and give similar quality of light? If that is true, could’nt I use dirct flash at a wide angle to spread the light around?

    Thanks much,
    Steve K

    Reply
  42. 42Neil vN says

    December 23, 2011 at 4:20 pm

    Steve … with 60″ umbrellas, they’d have to be a pretty far distance away to become a pin-point light source. We weren’t even nearly approaching that kind of (hypothetical) distance.

    Therefore, the light was better with these two umbrellas than two direct flashes could’ve provided.

    Neil vN

    Reply
  43. 43Michelle says

    March 10, 2012 at 3:55 pm

    Hello, Neil. I am thrilled to have stumbled upon your site. It’s incredibly informing and the best source of information I have come across in all my years of internet searching thus far. I appreciate your hard work and the fact that you are willing to pass your knowledge along.

    I was hoping you may be able to help me out with a shoot I have tomorrow. It is a 4 generation family shoot (26ppl) and they would like the main group portrait to be taken in the matriarch and patriarch’s front yard. The house would be the background and there are several trees that cast shadows across the lawn. We are scheduled to begin around 3pm and I am not quite sure what direction the sun will be in relation to the yard. I have the Canon 5D and the 580EX… and a basic light kit with 2 softboxes and several reflectors. Idealistically, I would love to only use the 580. Weather calls for sunshine, but the past few days have been overcast. I would truly appreciate any advice you might have on a starting point for settings… I enjoy shooting large groups and have always done alright with just the 580 but I would like to really nail it tomorrow! Thank you so much! ~ Michelle

    Reply
  44. 44Neil vN says

    March 10, 2012 at 8:56 pm

    Michelle .. the scenario you describe is too generic to give specific advice. The one thing I would take care of though, is not to have my subjects partially in shade and partially in sun. That’s just a way to make your life much more difficult than it need be. Best of luck there.

    Neil vN

    Reply
  45. 45Serena says

    July 10, 2012 at 2:24 pm

    Just wondering if you could use a one light setup (your simple light setup) with a 60″ and effectively light a group of about 20-25 people? Someone suggested for me to use a 60″ silver lined umbrella with my White Lightning 800. I have a 8.5 tall stand. Would this work or do I need two?

    Reply
  46. 46Neil vN says

    July 11, 2012 at 8:17 am

    Serena, it depends on whether you stagger the people in the group, or have them in one big line. In other words, how wide is your group?

    A 60″ umbrella is big, but for a real even spread of light, a shoot-through umbrella would be better than a bounce umbrella.

    Neil vN

    Reply
  47. 47Dave says

    December 17, 2012 at 2:09 pm

    Neil, I’ve been following your blog for a while now, so let me start off by saying thanks for all the great posts!
    I am going be doing a fairly large family group shot (30 people) with ages from 8 months to 80 years. If the weather permits, it’ll be out side around noon (I had no say in the time). The area has a ton of open shade. I only have shoot through umbrella’s. I’ll be using Nikon’s 24-70mm f/2.8. My thought is to to do it at 24mm at f/5.6 and have the two shoot throughs on either side as high as my stands allow (7′?) and just outside my FoV (or photohsopped out later).
    If i’m outside should i just use ambient or should i use the umbrellas?
    Would it be better to do it at 50mm? If i do it at 50mm i think i’ll need to be about 40ft away… If i’m outside should i just use ambient or should i use the umbrellas?
    Thanks in advance,
    Dave

    Reply
  48. 48Neil vN says

    December 22, 2012 at 1:47 am

    Dave .. this really is going to depend on two things:
    – the light levels on the day, i.e., sunny / cloudy
    – where you position them eg, in the shade

    This will determine whether you’re going to battle full sun or not.

    It does sound like you’re already intending to work in the shade. Good choice.

    Then there’s a simple recipe:
    – lowest ISO
    – max sync speed
    – find the correct aperture for the ambient light.

    Then sweeten it with flash. The shoot-through umbrellas will be wasteful of the light outdoors … but if you can get enough light from your flash onto your subjects, it should look good.

    Neil vN

    Reply

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