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flash photography techniques
wireless TTL flash
flash outdoors
metering techniques
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Speaking very broadly, there are two ways of using on-camera flash outside – either as:
- a slight fill-flash, or as
- a brute light source to lift the shadow areas of a subject to the same level as the sunlit areas.
Of course, in between that, there is a wide spectrum of possibilities, but for simplicity of explanation, I’ll show examples of those two extremes.
Metering correctly for ambient light is key here.
It is important that you understand how shutter speed, aperture and ISO inter-relate.
The following three photos are really simple in their execution. I metered correctly for the available light, and then shot with flash straight on – but my flash exposure compensation was dialed way down.
It is as simple as juggling the three inter-dependent controls – shutter speed, aperture and iso.
When I shoot this way outdoors, I usually dial my Canon speedlights down to around -2 to -3 stops. But with Nikon strobes I tend to dial down less – usually around -1.3 or -1.7 … because I then use the Nikon speedlights in TTL BL mode, which balances flash automatically with ambient light.
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The idea here is to just use the flash to lift the shadows, and avoid shadows under the subject’s eyebrows. The flash should ideally be imperceptible, and is really only used as fill-light.
Just to round out the variety of cameras used, I should mention that the above photo was taken with a Fuji S2.
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Flash straight on, but dialed down because I wanted it as a touch of fill light only.
specific settings: The wide aperture was chosen for the minimal depth-of-field. I wanted the autumn leaves as a soft mush in the background. My exposure was chosen by chimping and making sure that the exposure on her skin was good without flash. |
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| I used the same simple technique here as well for daylight fill-flash as with the previous photographs on this page. I set my camera to expose for ambient light, and then used flash which I dialed down.
specific settings: |
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Unless you want the background to blow out, or the shadow areas to go black, you’re compelled to try something to balance the shadow areas with the brighter sunlit areas. The easiest way is usually with an on-camera speedlight.
To help with contrasty situation here I had to blast a lot of flash in order to balance the exposure between the couple and the setting. So here the light from my flash isn’t as subtle as the previous examples – but it was a necessity in order to get the photograph, and still shoot while on the move. specific settings: |
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More on exposure metering, and using TTL flash …
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Please feel free to e-mail me with comments & questions.
Neil van NiekerkIf you need more direct help or instruction on flash photography, I do present workshops and seminars, and I also offer individual tutoring sessions.
If you feel that you have benefited from these webpages, then using these B&H and Amazon links to order any equipment and goodies would be a welcome way of helping towards the cost of hosting these webpages. Thanks!




Your work is very superior to others and with your own style. Very nice.
I have a group shoot of 50 people in a class reunion. I have a D700 w/ 24-70mm and 1 sb900. What camera settngs and flash settings should I use? should flash be on camera or remote? I have a on flash diffuser that came w/sb900 or should I use bounce card? This will be shot outdoors and the forecast for this Saturday will be 74F partly cloudy and winds 8 mph.
Could you give me some advice?
Thank You,
Erik
Comment by Erik — September 16, 2009 @ 7:56 pm
Comment by Neil — September 19, 2009 @ 2:29 am
Hi Neil,
I have a Nikon D300 and SB-900 and am wanting to use it in an abandoned building for a fashion shoot,
I know its not easy to say what the settings will be due to light change, location etc but have you got any advice on how to set the exposure up etc.
I will be using a single flash gun. I also have an Infra-red trigger and of course on board flash.
Thanks
Dave
Comment by David — September 22, 2009 @ 2:16 pm
Comment by Neil — September 24, 2009 @ 9:26 am
Hi Neil,
Been an avid reader of your site for quite sometime. Anyway, I’m still trying to get my head around the outdoor flash thing. I live in the Philippines so sunlight can be pretty harsh except for the early morning or late afternoon light. Now trying to get nice photos when I’m at the beach can be a challenge. Of course these are pretty much candids for personal use and so I’m restricted to on-camera flash since I’m moving about quite a lot. I find that the only alternative is to use HSS. Under the harsh afternoon sun, I usually get readings of ISO 100, SS1000, f.8-10. Trying to blur the background by opening up my aperture just raises the shutter speed. SO, using max synch seems to be out of the question. Any ideas? Oh, btw I use a 30D and a 580 EX.
Comment by Joey Server — September 25, 2009 @ 12:53 am
Comment by Neil — October 3, 2009 @ 9:23 am
“I set my camera to expose for ambient light”
1. Please explain just how you do this.
2. Is the difference between fill light and full light from the on-camera flash, that fill flash is dialed down to something like -3 compensation, and full light is dialed up to about +3?
Many thanks
Comment by Lydia — October 5, 2009 @ 5:53 pm
Comment by Neil — October 5, 2009 @ 10:37 pm
“When I shoot this way outdoors, I usually dial my Canon speedlights down to around -2 to -3 stops. But with Nikon strobes I tend to dial down less – usually around -1.3 or -1.7 … because I then use the Nikon speedlights in TTL BL mode, which balances flash automatically with ambient light.”
Neil, why do you use TTL BL for Nikon instead of TTL? I read a post on Flickr, think it was Zeroneg1, which stated that TTL BL is for outdoors and TTl for indoors – is this your opinion as well? What is the difference between the two?
Thanks
Comment by Lydia — October 9, 2009 @ 8:44 pm
Comment by Neil — October 10, 2009 @ 2:05 am
Hi again!
I do not shoot RAW because I do not know how to process the images afterwards. So, what should I set my WB to when shooting in ambient light with flash? Thanks,
Genevieve
Comment by Genevieve — October 12, 2009 @ 12:18 pm
Comment by Neil — October 12, 2009 @ 12:26 pm
Hello,
I was wondering something. You say you metered correctly for the available light. So i guess you mean the exposure. When i meter my exposure in daylight it often is 1/30 – 1/60. How come you can get numbers like 1/250 ?
Kevin
Comment by kevin — December 24, 2009 @ 10:42 am
Comment by Neil — December 24, 2009 @ 12:20 pm
Neil, you use CTS gel with your Quantums just as you do with your speedlights?
Comment by Alfredo Medina — December 24, 2009 @ 3:18 pm
Comment by Neil — December 24, 2009 @ 4:23 pm
…then you never use cts gel when you work outdoors. Why?.
Comment by Alfredo Medina — December 24, 2009 @ 6:15 pm
Hi Neil
A further question to the one Lydia already asked. When you say that’I set my camera to expose for ambient light, and then used flash which I dialed down.’ does that mean that you metered without taking the flash into consideration (ie meter whilst flash is turned off) or with the meter with flash turned on and as usual and then simply dial down flash (with camera adjusting automatically)?
Thank you for your help! I already learned heaps by reading my way through your website. Whilst I have read quite some photo books over the years, it took your website to get my photo-brain going again. Excellent work!
Comment by Seb — December 26, 2009 @ 10:03 am
Comment by Neil — December 26, 2009 @ 4:12 pm
Hi Neil, are the photos shown on this page Photoshoped in anyway? If so, what sort of processing did you do to it?
Thanks alot for your help!
Comment by theKimsta — January 8, 2010 @ 3:11 am
Comment by Neil — January 8, 2010 @ 10:02 am
Hi Neil,
I have a Nikon D90. But my question is, when you use direct flash outdoors with the FEC dialed down to -1.3 or -1.7, do you use a diffuser on your flash such as the nikon or stofen diffuser so the light from the flash is not harsh on the skin?
Thanks in advance,
Trina
Comment by Trina Cheney — January 8, 2010 @ 11:59 pm
Comment by Neil — January 10, 2010 @ 4:26 am
Hallo,
Best website I’ve ever followed. I don’t know if my question is flash related but it is outdoor related.
When taking photos outdoors under or in between trees and other plants, I very often get this (very) slight green tint on the more exposed areas of the face. I guessed it is from reflections from lawns and or trees. It is hardly noticable but I would like to avoid it. I tried to correct it with temperature and tint combinations in RAW, but just can’t get the right balance. Will the flash help or do one use a special filter?
Hope it is a valid question and someone experienced it as well. Receiving your book in 2? days. Can’t wait.
Again, Excellent site.
Pieter
Comment by Pieter — January 18, 2010 @ 3:06 pm
Comment by Neil — January 20, 2010 @ 7:18 am
Hello Neil,
I have a D90 and 600. will shoot a wedding outdoors in april, starts 2pm or so. the couple may be under a gazebo thing. the two scenarios i’m expecting is under daylight, and one under the gazebo with daylight around it. i have the kit 18-105. may get a tamron 17-50 f2.8 heard it’s decent. would like to get mostly shallow dof shots. doing it for free, may be good practice for me.
btw, ordrered the CTS gels and a stofen. if the reception is gonna be indoors, i’m reading up on it. but kinda lost for the outdoor ceremony part.
now, i’m gonna be on manual. what settings do you recommend? what would i anticipate in both under daylight, and while in the gazebo?
Comment by Angel — February 2, 2010 @ 4:06 pm
Comment by Neil — February 3, 2010 @ 6:59 am
Hi Neil. Love your website and your book. Thanks for what you do it is well appreciated. My question is on how to approach exposure at a wedding. I was told you almost always expose for the dress however you are saying to expose for the ambient ligth and then dial in the FEC on the flash. Does this method always works well for the dress? Does the same hold true for indoor shots? Thanks
Comment by Denis — February 14, 2010 @ 7:58 am
Neil, I saw on the example above that you always get 1/250th with aperture at 2.8 when you exposed for the ambient. Wouldn’t the shutter will be way high if I took the picture in bright daylight like 1/600th or something higher? In that case what would you do? thanks
Comment by Adi — February 21, 2010 @ 3:00 pm
let me add to my previous post. In the case of bright daylight, what would you do to be able to get 1/250th and wide aperture? Did you move the subject to a shade location or did you usually schedule the session when the sun is not so bright? So that you will be able to use max synch speed and wide aperture?
Comment by Adi — February 21, 2010 @ 3:07 pm
Neil,
I’m working through your articles and just got your book a few weeks ago. You are a great teacher and an inspiration to us amateurs.
I have a question regarding your response to the Joey Server post above;
NvN: “Since you lose at least half your flash’s power by going to HSS, but need the narrower DoF, I would suggest ganging up two or more speedlights and in that way getting enough power in bright daylight … and still get narrow DoF”.
Would you ever consider using a single on-camera flash aimed directly at the subject with a 3-stop ND filter on the lens. This gives you f/4, 1/250 assuming ambient is around EV 15 (“sunny 16″). Of course if you need f/2.8 or wider, this is a different story.
Comment by Anthony — March 11, 2010 @ 8:57 pm