wedding photography: using high ISO and flash to retain ambience at the reception
Chatting with other photographers at the recent WPS convention in Chapel Hill, NC, I was again struck by how there are so many different ways of approaching lighting. In this case, lighting at the wedding reception. The one photographer I was chatting to, set up multiple speedlights around the reception room, and then controls which are fired, from his on-camera Master speedlight. Very impressive.
In recent years, the wedding reception venues where I’ve shot on the East Coast of the USA, have moved away from being the dark-hole large rooms, by adding up-lighting, and making the places generally more vibrant and colorful. Coupled with the astonishing high-ISO capability of the last two generations of cameras, I really haven’t felt the need to set up additional lighting to lift the general light levels, like I would have in the past, as described in this article:
- wedding photography: TTL flash with off-camera manual flash
A wedding from earlier this year, at the same venue … where I was able to effectively light the entire place with just an on-camera speed light.
- bounce flash photography & the inverse square law
By using a higher ISO, and carefully bouncing my flash, I could get away with a much simpler set-up of a single on-camera speedlight.
Here’s an example of a recent wedding, where the reception was in a glass-house style conservatory. By shooting against the DJ’s lights, I was able to NOT have a dark background, but something colorful instead.
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camera settings:
1/60 @ f3.2 @ 2500 ISO
on-camera TTL bounce flash, gelled with 1/2 CTS gel
equipment used:
Nikon D4 (B&H); Nikon 24-70mm f2.8G ED AF-S (B&H)
Nikon SB-910 Speedlight (B&H); Nikon SD-9 battery pack (B&H)
This is a simple technique that I constantly use when photographing the wedding reception – I look for brighter areas in the background, and *I* move around so that I can place my subjects against that. The colors and shapes in the background helps place my subjects in context of the wedding … as opposed to a dark background that they blend into.
It means I do move around and look at my backgrounds specifically.
Now, about the area where I bounced my flash … a glass house with white structures.
For the two photos above, I was bouncing my flash off the back “wall” that you see there in the center of the image …
… looking towards this direction.
At first it doesn’t seem realistic to get enough light from a single on-camera speedlight there just by bouncing it behind me … but with a high enough ISO, it is quite feasible, and actually looks very good. Then it becomes a matter of finding the right aperture and shutter speed (along with that high ISO), to allow enough ambient light in to give context and a sense of mood.
further links:
- bounce flash photography & the inverse square law
- bounce flash examples – wedding receptions
- bounce flash photography tips
- more articles on wedding photography
photography books by Neil vN
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Neil
Thanks for this article.What would be your White balance for this scenario now that you are using half cut CTO.
thanks.
-MP
Comment by MP Singh — August 15, 2012 @ 3:36 pm
muito linda a foto coloca do casamento nesse mesmo lugar . uma pergunta desculpe , a 24x70mm que o sr usa serve pra dx ?.
Comment by marcos tambelini — August 15, 2012 @ 4:39 pm
Comment by Neil vN — August 15, 2012 @ 5:09 pm
I suspect that Neil set his camera’s white balance to approximately 3700K using the 1/2 CTS, not CTO.
Comment by Phil — August 15, 2012 @ 6:54 pm
I like how shooting this way keeps things simple!
Comment by Vi-Chi — August 15, 2012 @ 7:00 pm
I don’t think my D700 pictures could look that good at ISO 2500. The D3/D4 models really do outstanding work at high ISOs.
Comment by Stephen — August 15, 2012 @ 8:00 pm
I just discovered this site a few days ago and have been trying to absorb all the information. Your website is by far the best website on lighting technique! Thank you for writing and sharing your knowledge.
Quick question, when taking pictures at the reception, do you set the camera on manual and auto ISO? Or do you manually set the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO?
Comment by Alan — August 15, 2012 @ 11:47 pm
Comment by Neil vN — August 16, 2012 @ 12:04 am
Hi Neil, I have bought and read your two books. I have followed this website for a year.
One thing that I don’t understand, how you could shoot wedding with manual everything on the camera and using on camera bounce flash.
How come you don’t miss a moment if you have to adjust the flash head and manual exposure for every pic that you are going to take?
Could you please enlighten me. Thankyou verymuch.
Comment by Ryano Tandayu — August 16, 2012 @ 6:08 am
I have an sb700 that is not strong enough to light up an entire hall on bounce, no matter what ISO. The other day I borrowed an sb900. On full power, which what it takes to light up the hall, the flash overheats constantly. How do overcome this problem?
Comment by chaim meiersdorf — August 16, 2012 @ 12:00 pm
Chaim,
A lot of people, including Neil and myself, merely go into the SB900 menu and turn off both the audible and the sensor indicator on overheating:
http://www.ehow.com/how_7566056_disable-nikon-sb900-flash-unit.html
Caveat: Turning off warning indicators does not mean the flash will not overheat, it will merely prevent it from turning itself off after a ridiculously short period, you need to keep an eye on the flash thermometer indicator to see if its risen up high. But generally you won’t be multiple blasting for a long period of time. Still, Neil has fried the freznels on flash heads a few times. :)
Now, there are a couple of things you can do to also help.
1] Batteries. If you use a high capacity normal batteries [non-rechargeable] that will cause overheating. But also if using rechargeable, feel the battery when charging, since if it feels hot and it get hot discharging. Most of us use Sanyo Eneloops rechargeable helps.
2] Having an external battery pack like Nikons SD-9 pack will help dissipate the heat.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/570528-REG/Nikon_4952_SD_9_Battery_Pack_for.html/BI/2096/KBID/2822
http://neilvn.com/forum/discussion/166/nikon-sb900-overheating
Comment by Trev — August 16, 2012 @ 7:56 pm
I just found your site and I’ve been pouring through these articles trying to figure out what I’m doing wrong… I would really appreciate a response, as I don’t know who else to ask!
Lately I’ve found that almost all my indoor flash (wedding reception) images are soft. Too soft to use. I don’t have a ton of equipment yet, so I rely pretty heavily on my 24-105L IS f/4. Because it’s an f/4, I wind up cranking up my ISO. (shooting w/ 5D mark I, so I *do* get noticeable grain). My settings generally look the same, I guess, probably at f/4, ISO 1000, and a shutter speed between 80 and 125, shooting with the flash in ETTL (580EX II). I know the image stablizer won’t help to freeze motion, but I thought that the flash combined with my shutter speed would. Instead, images with any motion are blurred and soft. Even some of the shots without motion are really soft. I typically bounce the flash up with a card because I feel like I need to get as much out of it as I can with my f/4 lens, but sometimes I throw the light up and to the side, too..
Do you think this would be a problem with camera shake?… that my equipment just isn’t right for the low light conditions?… should I bounce the flash differently and/or change up my camera settings/ISO?
The last reception I shot was in a hall with window light, but I still had the same issue. Could it have been the ambient light interfering in that case?
Any thoughts at all would be greatly appreciated, as I’m starting to despair.
Mandy
Comment by Mandy — August 16, 2012 @ 11:50 pm
Comment by Neil vN — August 17, 2012 @ 12:03 am
Neil,
Wow, thank you for the quick response! I will try to change up my settings so that the flash is compensating more – that might be part of it. I have a wedding tomorrow, so I’ll just have to focus on trying several different approaches to see if I can nail down the issue. I will go back through the images and check out the forum.
Thank you!!
Mandy
Comment by Mandy — August 17, 2012 @ 11:12 am
I borrowed an sb900. On full power, which what it takes to light up the hall, the flash overheats constantly. How do overcome this problem?
Comment by InvitesWeddings — August 24, 2012 @ 3:13 am
Comment by Neil vN — August 24, 2012 @ 6:05 am
InvitesWedding,
Read above Post # 11
You cannot stop it warning and shutting down under just normal circumstances I am afraid, but you can turn it off.
Read the ‘Caveat’ I put in that post though. :) Read the last link, this ‘could’ happen, up to you. But I have my now turned off for quite a while and I let it just go, with no trouble so far.
Trev
Comment by Trev — August 24, 2012 @ 7:22 pm
Great article, Neil – thanks. I use a combination of setting speedlights set up around the room controlled from the camera (and a video light) combined with high iso (on a D800). This works very well as we invariably cannot bounce flash here in the far north of Scotland, where venues are painted in interesting colours such as burgundy red, vivid mustard yellow, navy blue and/or a combination of all of these…. and often with an orange-stained wooden floor. Venue lighting is usually shut off so it is as dark as a 1980s school disco ;-). An article on removing such terrifying colour casts would nice :-))
Comment by Corinne — August 25, 2012 @ 6:33 am
Comment by Neil vN — August 30, 2012 @ 4:38 am
Thanks to you and your Tangent blog and your books I have been reading two times I was able to make pictures in a dark situation, with most black walls. Just on camera ttl flash with black foamie thing. See 25-8 http://www.roodbootje.nl/week%2034-2012.html
Comment by Annemieke van Baal — August 31, 2012 @ 5:13 am
Neil, I was just wanting to know if you set up stands and use flash and reflector in different positions around subject. Putting flash in front of reflector and bouncing light that way. Was also wondering from a previous post I saw from you how do you position your soft box in outdoor use to archive the short and broad lighting look. I have tried but can’t seem to get the needed effect that I want. If you could give me a rough guide line that would be appreciated. Thanks.
Comment by Chris — August 31, 2012 @ 1:01 pm
Comment by Neil vN — September 5, 2012 @ 4:42 am
I live and work in Cyprus so a lot of receptions are open-air (outdoors) with nowhere to reflect/bounce – what do you recommend I use a speedlight modifier?
Great website btw – love reading your posts/tips
Alexis
Comment by Alexis Hadjisoteriou — September 10, 2012 @ 11:33 am
I was lucky enough to shoot a wedding reception with NO FLASH what so ever. I wasn’t being paid, so it was a perfect time to experiment with the hi ISO of the D800. I set the ISO limit to 2500 and shot with the fastest glass I had – 50mm, f/1.8, 1/60 sec.
I metered off the bride’s dress and took it from there. For the most part I was extremely happy with the results. Some were out of focus, but I was expecting that because sometimes I couldn’t even see what I was focusing on. The bride and groom loved the photos and I loved the ambience and colors they portrayed.
Sure, the originals may be a bit noisey, but those are 24 x 16, and who get prints that large? The 4×6 and 5×7 images look crystal clear.
Here’s the link: http://smu.gs/PQUzkT
Comment by Steve Z — October 25, 2012 @ 3:13 pm
Since you used such a high ISO, how did your photos manage to not show any noise?
Comment by Danielle — January 8, 2013 @ 6:55 pm
Comment by Neil vN — January 20, 2013 @ 2:17 pm
Neil, I really appreciate all the information on your blog, I’ve learned so much! I was curious, in the examples above did you have a diffuser of any kind on the on-camera flash?
Comment by Jason — March 7, 2013 @ 1:01 pm
Comment by Neil vN — March 7, 2013 @ 1:09 pm
In response to comment number 12 – take your camera off aperture priority perhaps?!? Great articles btw Neil, very informative :)
Comment by Murray Clarke — April 1, 2013 @ 7:25 pm