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flash photography techniques
flash brackets ~ flash photography tips ~ off-camera flash
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flash photography tips
The preceding pages, and the entire Tangents blog, contain a lot of information, whether techniques, ideas, equipment info, or random snippets. The posts cover a wide range of subject material, but mostly deal with flash photography, lighting, and general photography technique. But I’d like to bring the essential topics on flash photography together to one solid starting point.
This page then lists the most important advice that I can give you about flash photography. It should be a good jump page for anyone new to this website and new to flash photography. .

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my top 20 list of flash photography tips
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1. don’t fear your flash
It is entirely possible to get amazing results from your flash. Look at the image above. It’s done with one on-camera speedlight .. bounced properly. It’s actually pretty easy once you get used to it. So hang in there ..
2. you need something better than your camera’s built-in flash
You really do need a speedlight that attaches to your camera’s hot-shoe for best results. You simply can’t get there with just that pop-up flash on your camera. You need something bigger. Something that can rotate and swivel. The manufacturers that try and sell you little add-ons and gizmos and promise you that you will get great results from your pop-up flash after spending a couple of dollars on their crap .. well, they are misleading you. Get a proper speedlight!
3. bigger is better
My advice will always be to get the most powerful speedlight you can afford. The more powerful your speedlight, and the more features it has, the more options you have.
4. bounce your flash for better results
The larger your light-source, the softer the light. For that reason we bounce flash. We’re creating a larger light source. This implies that when we’re working indoors, and we have walls and a ceiling around us, that shooting with direct flash straight-on is possibly the worst that we can do. We may as well have stayed with the pop-up flash, and saved ourselves some money. So, bounce your flash!
5. use that wall as your softbox!
Don’t be stuck in thinking you can only bounce your flash off the ceiling. Bounce your flash off the wall(s) behind you, and beside you. Even try bouncing your flash into the open room behind you.
6. try for directional light
By bouncing off areas to your side, you can get directional light on your subject, instead of flat lighting. Here’s another example.
7. flag your flash
When you bounce your flash to the side, make sure that there is no direct flash spilling on your subject. I use a piece of cheap black foam, held in place with hairbands, to make sure I only get soft indirect light on my subject.
8. allow TTL flash to make your life easier
TTL flash technology can allow you to get great results easily, but …
9. .. nudge your TTL exposure with flash exposure compensation
TTL flash exposure could vary, and it can also give you under or over-exposure. That’s the penalty for getting good results easily .. your exposure may vary, unless you adjust your flash exposure compensation. With practice (and a sneak peek at your camera’s preview), you can pre-judge this to a good degree.
10. TTL flash and manual flash are two very different beasts
You have to understand the difference between TTL flash and manual flash, and how their behaviour differ. They each have their own benefits. There are those photographers who disdain TTL flash, and only push one way of using flash – manual flash. You’ll be a stronger photographer in knowing the differences between manual flash and TTL flash .. and being able to use either with confidence.
11. understand maximum flash sync speed
It is imperative that you understand what maximum flash sync speed is .. and why it is often a sweet spot when you use flash.
12. aperture controls flash exposure? … well, maybe
You will often see this short-cut thrown around. It is true to an extent. But you need to be aware that aperture affects manual flash exposure, but not TTL flash exposure. Similarly, you need to be aware that ISO also affects manual flash exposure.
13. shutter speed controls ambient exposure? .. well, maybe
This is another short-cut which can be misleading since other photographers may well omit in telling you the entire truth … that aperture and ISO also affects ambient light. Where that shortcut – shutter speed controls ambient light – actually kicks in, is for manual flash, where shutter speed becomes the only independent control for ambient epxosure. A sublte but important distinction.
14. gel your flash for tungsten!
If you’re using flash in an environment that is predominantly incandescent lighting / tungsten lighting .. and you want your flash to appear more neutral, and not so blue (or your background so grunge-orange), then gel your flash to join the incandescent spectrum .
15. throw away the tupperware
When working indoors, you can most often get the best results by bouncing your flash. You don’t need that expensive piece of plastic that is advertised as being the solution to all your flash photography problems.
16. allow available light in
Sometimes flash is your dominant light source. Sometimes flash is your only realistic choice. But it usually looks better if you allow available light to give you some context and colour and mood.
17. start with the available light, and then add flash
At times it might need a slightly different approach between manual flash, and TTL flash .. but invariably, a good starting point in figuring out what you need to do with your flash, is to start with your ambient light metering and exposure.
18. juggling those three balls – shutter speed, aperture & ISO
In order for you to have a solid starting point for your ambient exposure, and understanding HOW to add flash to that, you absolutely need to know the essentials of your camera – how shutter speed, aperture and ISO inter-relate. There’s no short-cut.
19. high-ISO capability is no substitute for good lighting
20. the end will never be in sight
Learning more about flash photography and lighting is a never-ending journey.
There should always be the aspiration to become better.
That’s the challenge, and that’s also the good news.
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let’s take that flash off our cameras …
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If you need more direct help or instruction on flash photography, I do present workshops and seminars, and I also offer individual tutoring sessions.
If you feel that you have benefited from these webpages, then ordering equipment and other goodies through the sponsors and affiliates, would be a welcome way of helping towards the cost of hosting these webpages. Thanks!
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Really good tips Neils.
These really lift the veil between manual and ttl flash but also it’s “easier” and cheaper to bounce your on camera flash than having it off camera and require more “costly” wired or wireless equipments and assistant.
Happy holidays and thanks for the tips.
Thierry
Nomad Photography Australia
Comment by Nomad Photography — December 28, 2009 @ 4:30 pm
Great tips and a great, concise list of available articles with helpful summaries! :) love your site after semi-recently discovering it and this (along with the list of numbered articles on the sidebar) make your site one of the best places to really start getting into flash photography! I also am an avid Strobist reader and Digital Photography School reader, but neither of those seem quite as accessible to a newcomer as myself, so great job! :)
Comment by Jesse Kaufman — December 28, 2009 @ 5:05 pm
Neil,
I’m having trouble with my exposures after reading your book twice. Can you give me some quick advice. Almost everytime I use your method the room I’m in is still too dark. I don’t dare go below 1/60th shutter speed due to blur. My apature is 5.6 and the ISO is 1600. The meter tells me it will be underexposed and it is even after using TTL and using the black foamy thing and bouncing the light. It’s not too dark but I still need to add fill light in Picasa. I don’t like doing that. I am trying to avoid direct flash. SOme of your none flash examples have way less light than I have and your results are so much better. What am I doing wrong?
PS: Your method works fantastic when there is enough light in the room. Come back to Austin next year.
Eleazar
Comment by Eleazar Paradise — December 28, 2009 @ 9:14 pm
Comment by Neil — December 28, 2009 @ 9:16 pm
For all the importance of the first 19 tips, as a young photographer, its #20 that means the most to me. Thanks Neil!
Comment by Mark Denman — December 28, 2009 @ 10:08 pm
Thank you for this post, Neil. All are important tips, but I emphatically endorse #3 and #8. I struggled before my own learning break-through. And, because so many photographers take a religious approach to lighting, it can be hard to find rational advice. At Strobist.com, manual is the way to go — [e|i]TTL is the ugly stepchild. At my very big local camera shop in Los Angeles, “speedlights” are looked upon as toys — not for “serious” studio photography. Hmmph.
I am the proud owner of a gaggle of 580 EX II’s. I shoot frequently and frequently shoot TTL. TTL gives me sync speeds up to 1/8000th (why try to overcome the sun when you can knock it down?) and my subject can move around the set without affecting my exposure. Plus, I still have the latitude to adjust main/fill/background ratios and do it from my camera.
The way I see it, I shoot with six on-board computers; one in my camera and one in each of 5 speedlights. They all work together for me and are directed by me. Sure you have learn it. But, when you do, its very satisfying! I’m not painting with brushes. I’m painting with computer-controlled ink jets. The canvas, though, is still all mine.
Sure, there’s a place and a time for manual and for 2400 w/s strobes. For me, 95%+ of the time, that place is in the closet. Its all about light and it’s ALL JUST LIGHT. Where your source? Where’s your subject? It ain’t religion.
Happy Shooting to All :)
Comment by Dan Bibbens — December 29, 2009 @ 12:30 am
Great Tips…Definitely an asset to keep it and practice…practice…practice.
Neil.. One question? There is a chance for me to buy one second hand Metz Mecablitz 76 MZ 5 Digital Hammerhead flash and dedicated SCA mod for 500$… is it worth it to buy it now?
I think this kind of flashgun is now discontinued and no more new items on stands to buy…why?
I don’t think I have ever seen you mention using such a flashgun.
Interesting things about these flashes are better swivel and more powerful than a dedicated on camera flash. But why it is away from Mr Neil’s bag?
Can you please explain?
Comment by rafiayub — December 29, 2009 @ 5:25 am
Comment by Neil — December 29, 2009 @ 7:04 am
Thanks for the tips neil, I believe I have read most of your post here. I’m new to photogrpahy and my gear is only Nikon D40 kit lens; 55-200mm VR and Nissin Di866 flash gun. Any recommendation on what to purchase next. I’m plannig to shoot wedding, portrait and fashion. Thanks in advance. By the way is flash good enough?
Comment by Fred — December 29, 2009 @ 8:55 am
Fred – Since you are interested in Fashion and Portraits, I would recommend a good quality fast prime lens for your next equipment purchase. A 85 f1.8 is a standard workhorse for portrait work (If you can afford the 85 f1.4 lens – get that one.) It will really help you isolate your subject from your backgrounds with the shallow depth of field. It’s how a lot of photographers create clean beautiful images.
I would also recommend buying a few photography books. (Neil has a list of some excellent books on his website besides his own.) Read as much as you can and make sure you understand the science behind your camera and how it works. If you want to be a wedding photographer, you need to be able to problem solve in high stress situations. The more you know and the more comfortable you are with your camera, the better you will do. Weddings have many different quickly changing lighting conditions and you have to know what settings you want and why.
As for your flash – for right now there is nothing wrong with it. It should serve you well. But as you progress and add new equipment you’ll want to look into getting the sb-900. It is worth the money.
Hope this helps,
Stephanie
Comment by Stephanie Zettl — December 30, 2009 @ 2:25 am
Nice summary of tips, accessible in one place for bookmarking. :-)
By the way, tip 14′s link says, “gel your flash for tungten” Tungsten is spelled wrong. (You spell it correctly in the next sentence.)
Comment by Stephen — December 30, 2009 @ 10:17 am
Comment by Neil — December 30, 2009 @ 11:23 am
Neil, another great post! Just read your book and loved it!
Question: I can’t seem to find anything about what you recommend for the zoom setting on your speedlight when bouncing during an event. I use it for creative purposes in portraiture but am never sure what to do with it for events/receptions. Do you leave it on auto zoom or set it to something or set it per shot?
Thanks!
Comment by Jesse — December 30, 2009 @ 2:59 pm
Comment by Neil — December 30, 2009 @ 5:26 pm
Hello and thank you for all of this amazing information!
Quick one for you – you say to first expose for ambient light, what if the correct exposure for ambient is 1/30th shutter..that would cause camera shake. Proper exposure could mean different settings based on ISO and Aperture..say f3.5, ISO 1600, shutter 1/30. Do you recommend shooting as wide open as possible and exposing as best as you can assuming the shooter is holding the camera vs using a tripod?
Also, once you’ve exposed for the ambient light, simply turn on the external camera flash and adjust the flash exposure?
I’m just new to flash and will be shooting a night wedding soon…
Thanks!
Comment by Jennifer — January 15, 2010 @ 1:15 pm
Comment by Neil — January 17, 2010 @ 7:14 am
Hi Neil, these are very usefull tips. I’m still a newbie in flash photography, and your articles really helped a lot! Hope I could find your book here in Malaysia. Now to practice more flash photography! :)
Comment by Faizal — January 18, 2010 @ 12:57 am
Neil – this is the single most useful and well written information I have ever come across on the net… and I have read a lot of stuff!! Thank you for taking the enormous amount of time that it obviously took to put all this advice and help out there for other photographers to learn from – and free of charge. You are a legend!
Pat Reynolds (Australia)
Comment by Pat Reynolds — January 31, 2010 @ 9:18 pm
that dang tupperware! i had one, thought it worked. but returned it because i was determined to learn to bounce!
Comment by Angel — February 20, 2010 @ 7:06 pm
I recently started using a flash and over the last 2 months have become a fan of your site. I have made the “black foamy thing” and also a snoot from the remaining sheet and they work great. You expressed your thoughts about on flash modifiers indoors (above) but where if ever do you see using diffusers like the Ultimate Lightbox products, Gary Fong’s line-up, or especially the Orbis ring light (is attached to flash and uses the flashes light, doesn’t have its’ own lights- http://www.orbisflash.com)? You do list umbrellas/stands and softboxes in your gear list but I would like to be more compact.
Comment by Steve Weisberg — April 2, 2010 @ 2:24 pm
Comment by Neil vN — April 2, 2010 @ 3:04 pm
Thanks for your insight and using real life situations to discuss your topics. But what about any of them (or umbrellas and softboxes you use) off the camera flash where there really isn’t anything to bounce the light off of, especially oudoors?
Comment by Steve Weisberg — April 2, 2010 @ 3:47 pm
I love this Softboxes and Beatydishs for camera flashs – have a look here: http://www.flash2softbox.com – Great!
Comment by dirk — April 4, 2010 @ 7:54 pm
[...] 13 – flash photography tips [...]
Pingback by balancing flash with ambient exposure « Neil vN – tangents — April 9, 2010 @ 6:11 pm
Again, thanks for your response to my last comment (#23) which as you note is a question that often comes up.
Comment by Steve Weisberg — April 13, 2010 @ 8:32 am
“Thankyou” so much for sharing this tips and tutorials wit valuable knowledge of photography, all us appreciate, professional, novice, semi-pro. All of us want to say thank so much again.
Comment by Geo — May 16, 2010 @ 10:10 am
Hi Neil,
I was taking a class on manual flash photography and the photographer teaching the class uses non-TTL auto aperture “A” mode especially when lighting groups and the room has high ceilings. When he needs to increase the flash level he increase it by 1 stop or so, for example if the camera aperture is at F8 he changes the flash aperture to F11. He always leaves his ISO at 400 and shutter speed at basically 60. I have been practicing your techniques so what are your thoughts on using the “A” mode. Also he says he always shot people expecially groups at F8, which I disagree because I like to blur my background and sometimes there is no room to use telephoto lense…
Comment by Trina Cheney — June 21, 2010 @ 2:33 pm
Comment by Neil vN — June 21, 2010 @ 2:53 pm
I forgot to mention that the flash was the SB800. But his concept is that when I use f2.8 with two or more subjects, There is a chance of one or more of the subjects being blurred, which is probably true, but I like my subjects to stand out from the background. He also pointed out that my D90 really can’t support high ISO’s without having grainy pictures. I guess it is a matter of style and I like having a balance of flash and ambient light. The reason I went to the class was to learn how to light groups using manual flash and calculate the distance in buildings with high ceilings.
Comment by Trina Cheney — June 21, 2010 @ 4:39 pm
Comment by Neil vN — June 22, 2010 @ 12:21 am
Hello Neil,
I was doing a second pass of your book On-Camera Flash. Let me tell you, that is an excellent book and i have been reading and referring to it frequently. In Page 58 you mention about Stofen Omnibounce use and regarding your use of Stofen with hole cut on top. Can you redirect me to any photo you have that has been shot with such a midified Stofen so that i can get a clear idea about the situation you are trying to illustrate. I am sorry i cant get your point. Thanks
Comment by Gregory — July 21, 2010 @ 8:18 am
Comment by Neil vN — July 22, 2010 @ 5:20 am
Neil, I hope this hasn’t been asked too many times already but doesn’t the effect of the flash disappear when you aim it into the open room behind you?
Comment by William Krusche — August 14, 2010 @ 2:55 pm
Comment by Neil vN — August 20, 2010 @ 3:45 pm